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Next generation thermometer bearing/hinge 1.1 compatable


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My new fighter plane, modeled after the Arsenal VB 10

VrYOpqx.png

One of the SAS engines is located behind the cockpit and there was a problem with the front propeller wobbling around in flight, because it is offset to far from the engine. To fix this i first tried using thermometer RCS bearing in the nose and that worked great. Only problem was that if you did a sharp turn the RCS port would pop out from the bearing. I tried to fix this by adding more thermometers but that didn't help, so I decided to try using small solar panels instead. That worked a little bit better, but RCS port would still occasionally pop out if you did sharp turn at high speed. Final fix for this was adding another set of solar panels only slightly offset from the panels holding the RCS port. I think what happens is if the RCS port manages to get past the first set of panels the second set will stop it from going all the way out.

0p1bIWp.png

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16 hours ago, Jett_Quasar said:

For some reason I keep thinking about designs that use this little bearing to make things that spin... Once again I used the scanner to drive the rotation, it has about the right speed for that.  An earlier version was flying fairly consistently, but had absolutely no control.  Who knows, maybe a flying saucer is next.

Not sure if I should post this to Kerbal-X or not - it still needs work.

- Jett

OK just when I swore off Kraken drives, my spinning radar dish became one... Anybody interested in trying to figure this one out?

- Jett

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1 hour ago, Jett_Quasar said:

Anybody interested in trying to figure this one out?

 It looks like the cage of the scanner is too tight.  The scanner looks really jittery in there.

 Here's the scanner holder I've been using.

ubs5B8K.jpg

Edited by klond
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29 minutes ago, klond said:

 It looks like the cage of the scanner is too tight.  The scanner looks really jittery in there.

Sorry I should have attached an updated version of the video.  This is what it was doing... (sorry about the crappy raw video)

- Jett

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4 hours ago, Jett_Quasar said:

I should have attached an updated version of the video.

This video is unavailable to me..

 

8 hours ago, _Rade said:

I think what happens is if the RCS port manages to get past the first set of panels the second set will stop it from going all the way out.

Nice! I have tried this before with thermos and antennas but it did not work so well. I guess the antenna is just far more keen to escape my clutches.. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the great hinge!

Besides, I have a question to ask:

I tried to apply thermometer-RCS hinge and later solar panel-RCS hinge for my electric propellers, and got strange results. Identical two hinge gives different reusults.

The prior one is faster and more stable than the posterior one.

X3hv6vQ.png6uiId2A.png

Though those are configured in same way.

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Each propeller has a hinge on the front and another on the back.

Here's the internal view:

lk1HyGN.png

The posterior one is oscillating more. I found that the RCS on this one is penetrating through the solar panel for the prograde hold. Can't find why.

This bugs me so much, as the assymetry will cause the craft to roll. Any idea why the two identical hinges are getting different result?

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Did you try to add another set of solar panels around the RCS port, only they have to be slightly offset to the first set.

Like in this picture.

0p1bIWp.png

This helped me solve the problem with the RCS popping out of the hinge when the plane would to sharp turns.

I'm not sure what might be causing the oscillations but check those large reaction wheels, because from what I remember they don't like part clipping for some reason.

 

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On 23-2-2017 at 4:42 AM, Castille7 said:

 

Almost finished with this little Cargo Trailer, these little Air Brakes work nice for doors.

Cargo Trailer with Tiny Hinge

Xp9guQ2.png

  Reveal hidden contents

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Yep. That's what I did when Jeb and Val went camping last month.

screenshot53.png

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How did you prevent your trailer from jumping off when going over bumps? Only thing I could think off was lowering a control flap over the hinge. Dirty but effective.

Edited by Tex_NL
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Thanks _Rade!

I tried adding another layer of solar panel, but that didn't work. Though, as you said the large reaction wheel seems to be the problem! It does seem to dislike clipping in my end, too.

Edited by Reusables
Mobile autocorrection issue
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2 hours ago, Tex_NL said:

Yep. That's what I did when Jeb and Val went camping last month.

(Clippin)

How did you prevent your trailer from jumping off when going over bumps? Only thing I could think off was lowering a control flap over the hinge. Dirty but effective.

That's a nice little setup! and this is probably the best answer or something similar, I haven't really went over bumps and if I go on the turf I usually go off the rear of the Runway slowly.

Edited by Castille7
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1 hour ago, Castille7 said:

That's a nice little setup! and this is probably the best answer or something similar, I haven't really went over bumps and if I go on the turf I usually go off the rear of the Runway slowly.

The flap had all controls disabled. I used 'deploy' to raise and lower it. In its lowered position it was high enough to allow some movement but low enough to prevent the hinge to come even close to jumping off.

Edited by Tex_NL
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/9/2017 at 1:01 AM, Abastro said:

This bugs me so much, as the assymetry will cause the craft to roll. 

Actually, with the case of a reaction wheel powered prop, you won't get anything more than the friction of the bearing in that regard. This is because the propshaft is spinning itself, unlike with a turboprop which spins the propshaft using blowers mounted on the fuselage.

The only thing contrarotating reaction wheel props might help with is gyroscopic effects during maneuvers, however unless the propshaft has a really high moment of inertia, this probably isn't a problem in the first place. 

@MiffedStarfish the antennas are not clipped inside cubic struts, but rather into a tube of 8 thermometers.

Edited by EpicSpaceTroll139
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4 hours ago, MiffedStarfish said:

I haven't really tried to build hinges but from the photo it looked like the antenna was clipped inside the cubes, and I was wondering if their collision meshes were hollow inside the gap where the antennas were?

Do you mean the pic I posted in the first post? The antennas do sit inside 8 thermometers and will become part of a separate craft so they spin inside the thermometers.

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24 minutes ago, EpicSpaceTroll139 said:

Actually, with the case of a reaction wheel powered prop, you won't get anything more than the friction of the bearing in that regard. This is because the propshaft is spinning itself, unlike with a turboprop which spins the propshaft using blowers mounted on the fuselage.

I was overestimating the effect. As you said, the small difference in rotation speed doesn't cause too much roll!

Though, I found planes with single electric propeller tends to roll even with efficient fairing bearing. It needs at least half of the reaction wheels on the plane to compensate it, decreasing the performance greatly. Maybe friction is not small enough to ignore.

 

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2 minutes ago, Abastro said:

I was overestimating the effect. As you said, the small difference in rotation speed doesn't cause too much roll!

Though, I found planes with single electric propeller tends to roll even with efficient fairing bearing. It needs at least half of the reaction wheels on the plane to compensate it, decreasing the performance greatly. Maybe friction is not small enough to ignore.

 

Hmm, maybe there were parts rubbing together other than the hinge? I've never had torque problems with the electric prop planes I've made, though I must admit, most of the ones I made were much smaller. I see shielded docking ports in there, what are those for?

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10 minutes ago, EpicSpaceTroll139 said:

Hmm, maybe there were parts rubbing together other than the hinge? I've never had torque problems with the electric prop planes I've made, though I must admit, most of the ones I made were much smaller. I see shielded docking ports in there, what are those for?

Those are for re-docking, to make it warp-proof while hauling. Primarily to haul it to Eve & Duna. Also it's necessity for SSTO propeller planes.

Edited by Reusables
typo
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2 hours ago, Majorjim! said:

Do you mean the pic I posted in the first post? The antennas do sit inside 8 thermometers and will become part of a separate craft so they spin inside the thermometers.

Oh, right sorry. I thought the 8 thermometers were 2 cubic octagonal struts clipped inside each other and rotated.

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Just now, MiffedStarfish said:

Oh, right sorry. I thought the 8 thermometers were 2 cubic octagonal struts clipped inside each other and rotated.

I can see how you saw that. Nope that would indeed not work.

 If you have any issues making one, feel free to post again, I or another will be happy to help. :)

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4 minutes ago, Majorjim! said:

I can see how you saw that. Nope that would indeed not work.

 If you have any issues making one, feel free to post again, I or another will be happy to help. :)

Thanks I appreciate that, I'm about to start building a tilt wing shuttle so wish me luck :)

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Just now, MiffedStarfish said:

Thanks I appreciate that, I'm about to start building a tilt wing shuttle so wish me luck :)

Good luck!

Just now, MiffedStarfish said:

Thanks I appreciate that, I'm about to start building a tilt wing shuttle so wish me luck :)

Oh, also, try using an RCS block instead of an antenna if it's a high stress system. They tend to be more reliable for high weight, high stress mechanisms.

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