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About tsaven

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    Rocket Surgeon

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  1. Hey @zitronen, where's the best place in the various tabs for me to start putting the code to display various data from the game? Things like the AP, PE, heading, velocity, etc? Should that be in the "void Indicators" loop in the Utilities tab, or should it be somewhere else? Is there some documentation somewhere that explains what your concept of what each tab does and how they pass data to each other? (I'm super super green to all of this so I don't know if I'm even asking the right question)
  2. I know there's still an endless amount of details to shake out before we know what's involved with modding KSP2, but I'd sure hope that at least some of your models can transfer over and be used. It's such an incredibly fleshed-out and balanced mod, probably one of if not the premier parts pack for KSP.
  3. I'm assuming that Nertea is under the same NDA Burrito as Roverdude is. But I can't wait to see what influence he's had on KSP2, because it seems like there's an awful lot of derivatives of his work.
  4. I gotta say, some of these parts from the KSP2 trailer are looking awful familiar . . .
  5. I'll have you know that your post is how I learned about the existence of KSP 2. Kinda flipping out...
  6. IVAs don’t work like that; they don’t usually change based on any external conditions and don’t have any real gameplay function. They’re for flavor only. In fact, the majority of USI modules don’t have any IVA at all, as they’re extremely time-consuming to make and don’t add any functionality to the game.
  7. Excellent information, thank you. As I said I’m still really new at this so I appreciate the correction. I’m curious as to why printing to LCDs is so time intensive? What about sending Ic2 data?
  8. I'm only just a super-babby at anything programming and Arduino related, but from fiddling with the demo code it seems that all of the input testing is done with a long procession of "if" commands. This means that the controller is spending a ton of cycles continually checking the various digital or analog pins for to see if they're HIGH or LOW, and in my (super inexperienced) mind this is a lot of wasted cycles that are pointlessly slowing things down. In my mind, re-structuring the demo code to make more active use of Interrupts as opposed to continually checking all of the pins could make things a LOT more efficient. That way it'll only run the interrupt function when the pin goes HIGH or LOW, and the rest of the time it will just ignore and spend more time dealing with data being sent to it from the computer. The downside of this plan is that most of the Arduino boards only have a limited number of hardware interrupt pins; I think the Uno has just two, and the Mega 2560 (which it looks like you're using) has six. The Leonardo/Due have all of their digital pins available for interrupts, but they also bring their own suite of issues (mostly that they're 3.3v and most accessories are 5v, necessitating a possible re-design of your system or use of a lot of level shifters)
  9. For something that's on the surface of a planet, you're going to want to utilize the local logistics functions to break it up into multiple independent structures that are not physically connected. They'll need to be close (<150m), but as long as you're using the correct parts they will share resources and habitation. This helps avoids the kraken exploding things randomly, and helps your framerate stay above the single digits. As for an orbital station, there's too many variables to easily answer that. It depends on what you're using it for. Make sure to keep plenty of docking ports easily accessible though, because a station can never be completely self-sufficient. They'll always need some kind of resupply on a regular basis.
  10. I think this is actually intentional by design of this mod. On the configuration file on your computer, check the value "SAStol". From the documentation on the first post of this thread: Maybe try setting the value to 1 to disable the override? If I'm reading it right, but I've never messed with this function myself so I could be totally confused on the actual effect.
  11. So . . . I've got a kinda funny idea. Hear me out. I read a couple pages back that you were having machining issues related to the size of the part you're trying to cut. Is this something you're still stuck on? My place of work has access to machines that have some pretty gosh-darn big work envelopes, because we're that rare California tech company that actually makes a physical product. And while I'm not particularly chummy with the guys on the shop floor, I've been meaning to take a wander down and say hi. Our production rates keep them pretty busy and I know these machines are run a lot, but . . . perhaps there's some space in the schedule for a personal project? How big and what is it that you're trying to cut? I hear you on professional switches being stupid expensive! Those rectangular Tellite switches from the Apollo mission control consoles are flight-rated and even on e-bay used you're lucky to get them for less than $80/ea. I can't even fathom what they are new. But as for emulating them, arcade-style buttons seem to be pretty close: https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Rectangle-Buttons-Machine/dp/B07R8CNW47 They're not a flush pop-in mount, I doubt they'll feel nearly as nice to press. I'm also not sure if they're relegendable, but some of the colored ones do look like you should be able to pop the clear cover off and stick a label in there? I guess I'm about to find out, they should be delivered tomorrow. If they don't work out, do you have a brand or part number, or perhaps a source where those video console buttons you got out of the scrap board would have been sold new? $6/switch is a perfectly acceptable price, and I had the same idea that you mentioned with a bi-directional LED. I'm still having trouble finding a good LED for it though; the ones from the local Frys were hilariously dim. Something like 12mcd. Do you have a source for some bi-directional Red/Green and Yellow/Green LEDs that have some actual oomph to them when run at 5v? I've also been giving serious thought to your suggestion about running multiple controllers. Initially I had planned to use at least two controllers, but now I'm toying with doing it on a single device by using an Arduino Due. It's powerful enough that there should be no problems with computation and speed, and it can do the native USB keyboard emulation which means that I can add even MORE buttons and controls to my console! The real downside is that the Due is a 3.3v controller, but almost all of the other bits on the console are going to be running on 5v. So now I've got to figure out how to get 5v devices to talk to a 3v board. Is there a trick to that?
  12. Jesus dude you are like so far beyond the stuff I'm trying to do As a warning, because you seem . . . fairly . . . well versed in hardware stuff, I might end up pestering you a fair bit in the near future because jeeze do I need help. I've got a very tenuous understanding of basic electronics and have played around with some Arduino's a few years ago to make very basic projects, but I'm embarking on a far too advanced KSP Controller build myself as a learning experience and to keep me out of trouble. That layout isn't close to finished yet and I'm worried I'm going to have to expand the board because I keep adding features that I want... To be on topic, regarding driving 16-segment displays; I was able to find this useful little $6 item to drive 14-segment displays, which I think will do just fine: https://www.adafruit.com/product/1910 Your suggestion of only using the 14-segment displays for indication is exactly my plan, specifically to tell me if my AP/PE readouts are in meters, kilometers or more. And while I'll have to connect one of the two-digit segments to the controller board with some jumper wire, I can easily use that board to drive two separate 2-digit 14-segment displays for each of my indicators. And it works over IC2, so I can probably wire them up right in series with all of my other read outs for data as long as I'm careful about the addressing I have another question for you; where the heck does one get those relegendable backlit push buttons that you said you salvaged from an old video controller board? Those sort of things are exactly what I'm trying to find for my project, or at least a reasonable emulation of them. I've spent most of the weekend combing through Mouser & Digikey and haven't had much luck; the few options I've found when looking through switch maker's catalogs are not in stock anywhere and are listed simply as "Call us for a quote" which usually means "We're not interested unless you're buying 10,000 of them". Or they're $25/ea and that's a lot to swallow when I'm looking at needing *checks* at least 35 of them. I mean, really I'm hoping to find a way to emulate the look and feel of the Tellite switches that were used on the Apollo consoles, but those are designed and built for aircraft and I've been around enough airplanes to know how much anything that flies costs. I had hoped I could emulate them pretty well using Cherry MX switches and these square flat keys, but sadly they're not nearly translucent enough to shine sufficient light from an LED through. Plus I'd have to come up with a way of labeling them. Right now I've been checking out rectangular buttons from arcade machines, which are readily available for less than $5/ea but have other problems to them in terms of the look at feel.
  13. Hey Zitronen, thank you for this mod and for the continued attention to it. I'm curious, is there a reason why you've decided not to mark is as compatible with newer KSP versions for CKAN? Is it a matter of not being able to do enough testing to validate that it's actually compatible? Thanks again! *edit* I'm very new to hobby electronics, but I loaded up your demo with LEDs and it's worked.
  14. I was planning on being productive and doing useful adult things this weekend, but you may have thwarted that.