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Found 9 results

  1. https://imgur.com/a/rmNql https://imgur.com/gallery/xdyAP I long ago finished making my first telescope mirror, a 6" f/8, which you can read about from pages 1-5. It will not be used in a telescope as it has a number of chips and a fracture that reduce its usefulness anyway. I worked on it from May to July 2017, with a gap due to technical difficulties and a trip to Alaska. The mirror was made with a 1969 Edmund Scientific kit. It was intended to be f/5 but I ran out of grit and couldn't afford more at the time. I have also finished a complete 6" f/4.5 Dobsonian. The mirror blank was given to me by a friend at Stellafane, and I managed to grind, polish, and figure it in August 2017 - see pages 6 to 7. I star tested it and looked at Saturn on October 20th to confirm a good figure. First light was on October 27th. I rebuilt it in late July 2018. As of April 2018 I've also finished a 16" f/5 Dob. I attempted to make the mirror but that didn't turn out too well, so I got a replacement from a friend. Read about it from pages 9-10. Currently working on a 20" f/4 - read about it from page 10 onwards.
  2. hey kerbonauts! this thread is way of topic but I'm stgoing to post it anyway. here goes: i want to build a device that is able to measure the distance travelled with my car for rally purposes. it needs to be quite accurate (at least 100 meters accurate.. but I would prefer 10 m). and I want to get the signal to my computer so i perform calculations on it. I've been thinking of building an arduino tachometer with a hall sensor but my electronic skills are... let's say.... non existent... so i was wondering... maybe I can buy a bicycle computer and somehow" hack" the signal from the device. is this even possible? do you guys have any ideas of tackling this problem? maybe you've got some interesting alternatives? i would love to hear them! I've been playing around with several gadgets but without any positive results, including: -GPS dongle; it wasn't accurate enough because of several reasons. -obd2 plug with diagnostic tools; you can retrieve almost any signal from your car computer with this plug...... all but one! the odometer... i tried integrating the velocity but that wasn't accurate enough. - webcam on dashboard with OCR software; this was pretty creative! I pointed a webcam towards the odometer and transformed the generated pictures to digits with OCR software! this worked pretty well when the engine didn't run... but while driving it got to shaky to get a proper reading... sorry for the long post
  3. Anyways, I am designing a liquid-fueled rocket and to do that I need the combustion temperature of these to fuels. I've been looking for a very long time but haven't been able to find it anywhere. Thanks for your help
  4. Hey careless forum! How is it going? Maybe you know me by my collection of abstract art. If you are not familiar with it here is the link- LOL So after you've seen what you are going to learn now, lets begin working. Class 1, Topic 1.- Babysteps. So, now, you will need to find MS Paint. (sorry i don't know whether there is paint in Mac, but if there is do your best) After you've found Paint, lets begin with very simple task: 1. Choose any color you want in Pallete, which you will find in the right corner. (except entrirely black or entirely white) 2. Find button (close to pallete, a bit more to the left), there will be 4 sizes of lines. Pick the 3 pixel size. (you can acknowledge the size by hovering over it) 4. Find ''Figures" button, it is somewhere in the middle, just a tiny bit to the right. Now lets find rhombus (flipped square), place it in the middle of the picture. Then, using simple strait lines,lets make the grid. I won't explain it, i will just say two things: it makes stuff 3d, just copy it. Now lets paint it. Now i will give you a clue how to use light and shadow. By your IMAGINATION place somewhere (in the corner, down,up) a light emmitter. Take you base color and make 4 versions of it: one brighter than the base color, base color itself, a little bit darker than base color and the darkest one. (not entirely black, just darker) Find the right coloring tool. (i don't remember how is it called, it is just a picture of tin can with paint spillt out, sorry) Now place the color in such order: Brighter- closer (to light emmitter) Darker-Further. Here is what you're supposed to get: That is your first drawing! Congratullations if you made it so far. Class 2 Topic 1- Void Voids are great decoration to any drawing, they can be used as atmospheres of planets, special effects and if you are an abstract artist it is a little, yet great way to show something in 3D. Due to technical difficulties, I am able to show you only the end result. Sorry. So, currently, we need to create another drawing, then we need to paint the whole background black. Now, lets put something into the center, it can be absolutely everything, just not very big, probably as big as our previous drawing scaled down to 1/2 of its previous size. Now to the drawing.. Lets choose a certain color and make a square out of it, make sure it is far enough from out object in the center. (Make sure the color is bright enough) Lets put another square, witch is a little bit smaller than the previous one, make sure they are close to each other (20 millimeters) Paint the space between them, it should be colored the same color as the squares are. Then, make a few (6 or more, or less) variations of the color that are darker than the previous. Conduct the same operation until you will end up with absolute darkness. You should get something like this: (The central thing is unnecessary) If it will have enough response, i will make another lesson. POST YOUR THINGUS
  5. Joystick I've made for flight sims. Works in KSP also. -Rotary encoder on thumb, for prop pitch, reset by pushing Switch for brakes -Trim sliders for pitch/yaw -Trim potentiometer for roll -Rotary encoder for radiator (outputs an axis reading, resets by pushing) -Rotary encoder for time acceleration Controller is Arduino pro micro. Hot glue is used to fix the part to the throttle. Saviour-tape to dim the Arduino lights. Nothing too special, but looks kinda kerbal.
  6. Hey all! Long time lurker, got lots of inspiration from some of the threads here about custom controllers. Decided to dust off my soldering iron and raid my spare parts drawer to throw together a controller! Here's what I've got so far, the main display is nearly finished, the craft control section is just a mockup. The idea was to have a display section with the numbers I usually needed most from the map and whatnot... The bottom panel is cut out of an old tape deck. Thought the recessed analog gauges were really cool, also some of the switches and knobs were cool. So going to mess with that some more. Started a bit too low when cutting the slots for the 7 segment LED strips, so was only able to fit three. Also the slots were cut with a hand held grinder, so not very accurate. Ended up having a bit of a gap, especially below the third one. So, ended up gluing some foam down as a frame for the LED strips which came out well. Also, down the road, I plan to put some blue and red LEDs on the inside of the case and have the blue ones light when the vessel is in space and has power, extinguish when out of battery and then have the red ones glow when reentering. There are vent holes on the sides of the enclosure that would glow. Here's the mockup of how I think the final product will look. Still have to do the bottom portion, have a few small joysticks for eva/docking control and also a motorized fader for throttle control. Space Pilot Pro over on the left will be for camera control. Joystick on the right for controlling the pointy end of the rockets/planes. Here is the inside, mostly thrown together with random parts I had laying around in my junk drawer and some of the wiring that came out of the tape deck that was dissected for the face plate and switches. Kind of a rats nest. Considering doing a whole PCB fab for the craft control section to make it cleaner since I'll have less room to work with. In that case I'll end up with a couple spare PCB's, so I'll re-do the wiring in the top module correctly. Whole thing is powered by a Raspberry Pi. Was originially planning on using an Arduino Mega, but figured out getting serial out from my mac was going to be harder than doing it over IP with Telemachus, so switched to the PI for more processing power and to make the IP stuff easier. And here is the op test video of the completed display module! Console in action! Will post code and whatnot later on, this is probably the largest program I've done in python, so need to refactor it quite a bit to make it more efficient. Thanks again all for the inspiration! Really enjoyed doing this project. Oh yeah and as a by the way, the 3 LED strips display Apoapsis, Periapsis, and Altitude, when the switch just to the right of the bottom bar is switch down it changes to Target Apoapsis, Target Periapsis, and RADAR altitude. The three covered switches control drogue chutes, regular chutes and abort. The group of 6 button switches in the top right cover antenna deployment, lights, SAS, solar panel deployment, landing gear and RCS. Still need to add labels =)
  7. On this thread you can post memes about anything people do to be on a bandwagon.I will start it off.
  8. Found a news story on someone having built a sonic tractor beam. That is, it uses sounds to move or levitate very small objects. Apparently, if you can assemble one yourself, if you have parts from Arduino and access to a 3D printer. CBC article here. Build video here. Explain of how it works here.
  9. I'm not a treekie really, but I was impressed from this project, https://hackaday.io/project/1395-open-source-science-tricorder , I was looking for a project to learn more electronics, and I'd like to have a suite of sensors, so this could be perfect. In fact I will try first to understand in completely, and then maybe even update it. The original autor is peterjansen In current state has this suite of sensors(c/p from the web of the project): Atmospheric Sensors Ambient Temperature and Humidity: Measurement Specialties HTU21D Ambient Pressure: Bosch Sensortec BMP180 Multi-gas sensor: SGX-Sensortech MICS-6814 Electromagnetic Sensors 3-Axis Magnetometer: Honeywell HMC5883L Lightning sensor: AMS AS3935 X-ray and Gamma Ray Detector: Radiation Watch Type 5 Low-resolution thermal camera: Melexis MLX90620 16×4 Home-built linear polarimeter: 2x TAOS TSL2561 UV: Silicon Labs Si1145 Spectrometer: Hamamatsu C12666MA micro-spectrometer, with NeoPixel light source Spatial Sensors Inertial Measurement Unit: Invensense MPU-9150 9-axis (3-axis accelerometer, gyro, and magnetometer) Other Sensors Microphone: Analog Devices ADMP401 For now I already have the pcbs from OSHpark (I have two spares if someone is interested we can talk), and some of the sensors and the microcontroller that I get in samples ( I would like to express my gratitude for the companies who give me the samples, could a mod concrete if this is permitted in this forum? is a form of advertising in some way) This fairly is not really a cheap project (I myself won't do the spectrometer and thermal camera board for now, because this both are more expensive than every else combined) but I could encourage it as an instrument to teach science to kids and curious people. If this goes well, I MAY sold them in little quantities to help pay me a master (I'm trying to change my career orientation), and try to make it more affordable. Tomorrow I will upload some of the first photos of the pcbs. What do you think about this project?