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Found 21 results

  1. Am in the process of updating some dusty *cough* *cough* parts; some have mbm, tga, png textures. Converting them to dds isn't an issue (flip-flip save) I want to know if can add normal / etc without having to fire up blender(doesn't work on my machine)/unity? can I generate the normal and attach in the part.cfg using texture = ? how about other types of textural enhancements?
  2. I've been trying to make some lovely metal and mylar parts, but the albedo channel does literally nothing. I tried a number of different textures and even tried adding an alpha channel to my .png files, thinking that might be the issue. Nada. It's still a) a uniform color and b) white, no matter what color I input. Send rescue craft immediately,
  3. Hi folks, it's been a while since I've been on. For a little background, I'm a senior in high school. I've been in a program for three years now called Science Research, where students are given the opportunity to conduct original research, culminating in the writing of a research paper, as well as a variety of science fairs. For my project, I've been working on a design study for a single stage to orbit spaceplane (big surprise) that uses three modes of propulsion to get into orbit and back onto the ground. Here's an excerpt of my paper, to give a description of the craft itself: "The concept of this spaceplane is a hybrid three mode aircraft based on the design of the SR-71 aircraft. The aircraft is already optimized aerodynamically and structurally for high mach flights, and are proven designs. While it’s the basis for the design, the only visual commonality between the spy plane and spaceplane will be the bird’s-eye profile. From the side view of the SR-71, the design of the spaceplane will be different both above and below the chine of the fuselage. Below the chine, the fuselage will be squared, and covered with heat protective tiles. This has three purposes: one, to simplify the process of applying the tiles; two, to create a lifting body effect on the fuselage; and three, to increase the area inside of the fuselage for fuel. The wings will be lowered and thickened slightly, in order to meet the bottom of the fuselage, and provide more area for fuel. Additionally, the lift from the body will allow the wings to be shortened width-wise, creating a slimmer profile for more efficient high-mach flight. On the wings, housed in the nacelles of the Pratt & Whitney J28 engines used on the SR-71 will be pre-cooled turbojet engines, build to take the spacecraft from the ground to mach 6 and 20,000 meters. Halfway down the bottom of the spacecraft will be the intake for the scramjet, which will take the spacecraft from mach 6 to mach 17, and 70,000 meters. The scramjet will exhaust from the bottom rear of the spacecraft, with the engine also covered in protective tiles. Above the chine, the body of the spacecraft will be radically changed. The cockpit will be removed, along with the rest of the upper body of the Blackbird. In its place will be a large conformal tank, with a fuel and an oxidizer tank within. Between these two tanks will be a small cargo bay, with a 5,000 kg capacity. At the end of the conformal tank will be two Aerojet Rocketdyne AJ10 engines, proven as reliable vacuum engines over the past 60 years. (May be switched to one Merlin 1D vacuum engine)" I have the technology and math covered- what I need to do now is create a printable 3d model of it, both solid and cutaway. The images of the craft in KSP included are what amount to a rough sketch for me, as I have no skills in actual sketching on paper. https://imgur.com/a/4e7uexY (I don't remember how to embed albums, oh well). I'd really appreciate it if y'all could help me create models of this craft, as it would both aid my presentations at fairs, and provide a really nice final product for all the work I put into my research over the past three years. Thanks!
  4. Hello there ^^ I'm wondering what programs/tools I should use for texturing parts to a semi-realistic standard (i.e. have metallic areas look metallic, and so on), preferably open source/free (but not trial software). I've heard of procedural texture generation, should I try something like that after I practice making a few basic cute little engines like in @Beale's part tutorial? I think that hand-drawn textures are nice, but I feel it may get overwhelming trying to do stuff like it for more detailed parts once I get the hang of modelling parts...
  5. Hi everyone, As I continue developing my mod Intergalactic, I'm starting to wonder... what's the best method of texturing a planet? Procedural? SpaceEngine? Or simply drawing it from scratch on programs like Gimp? I'm just asking for your opinion on how I should go about doing this.
  6. I want to make a modular engine mod. The idea is to add a group of parts made up of engine nozzles, combustion chambers, engine base plates, and some other engine parts which function as one engine when assembled. I know how to model and add new parts to the game, but I need help with getting the "combined engine" functionality working, hopefully without adding/coding plugins. Also, tips on texturing will help. Thanks for reading!
  7. Hi guys! Recently i started on moddeling and im working on a version of the Altair Lander and Orion Spacecraft. Yes, i know that there's wonderfull mods with those, but i wanted something more stockalike and updated (for me, BobCat's the king and his versions is the best, but outdated and need some work to fit with the new versions and look on game). Said that, i started my own project but i dont know how to make the texture and action to change the windows color "turning the lights on" like other parts on game... Didnt found any tutorial either... Can anyone give me some tips? Thank you! Gabu
  8. As i say in the video, i've had a couple PMs and tried helping a few folks out on the forums who've posted asking how to texture for KSP, so i thought i'd throw together a basic guide on how i go about doing things. Hope it helps!
  9. So with the preview of the new Making History parts by @RoverDude comes the most important thing to do after receiving a preview. It's time to give some critique and feedback. Now let me just open by saying this isn't a criticism of roverdude as a person he's an amazing driven developer and modder with a great work ethic, and morals that have encouraged shared assets and has only helped make the game more moddable. The point of this critique is to aid him in making the best parts he can for the KSP community that fit in best with the more recent additions to the part catalog such as the space plane parts. This is important because every new major body part that is added to the game that doesn't fit in like this would also need to replaced when the indefinitely postponed rocket revamp finally comes and it's feared that if there are too many parts that need to be replaced the revamp may never come. This Critique also refers to the Semi-official Part Overhaul mod by @Porkjet because it laid a great foundation of how rocket parts could be made consistent with the spaceplane parts while still preserving a distinct style for each manufacturer to allow easy identification in the part catalog. Finally this critique takes the form of the large preview image written over with notes, criticisms, and reference pictures to backup claims. So for the sake of not breaking the webpage on mobile with something super wide I've enclosed the image in the spoiler below.
  10. Hi, can somebody please make an EUS style texture for the small 3.75 m tank in the style in nothke's SLS recoloring mod? Thanks, Bottle Rocketeer 500
  11. Hi. I'm trying to make my first part - it is supposed to be a Fowler flap. I've made a model in Blender, UV-mapped it with textures, imported into Unity editor and it seems more or less reasonable there. The way it is textured is far from perfect but I'd rather leave it for later. But when I attach this part in SPH editor, it looks weird - lower part of flap has texture only when looked from below. Sides and upper surface are transparent. I tried to recreate faces and re-texture them and it has no effect. What am I doing wrong? Unity render: KSP render:
  12. hi everybody, more than a year I know the game now and I'm still stuck on and after so much time spent playing and enjoying the mods that have done for would give my help to those who need a designer to continue the wonderful world Kerbal Space Program leave a sample of my work on a small link (this very outdated but you can see something of my work). although not many samples I have a great experience in design for video games porfolio
  13. hi everybody, more than a year I know the game now and I'm still stuck on and after so much time spent playing and enjoying the mods that have done for would give my help to those who need a designer to continue the wonderful world Kerbal Space Program leave a sample of my work on a small link (this very outdated but you can see something of my work). although not many samples I have a great experience in design for video games porfolio
  14. I need to know wich map exactly Ksp support for his shader for better visual result with Substance Painter 2 and Designer 5. Base Color/Albedoe,Height,Roughness,Metallic,Normal,Ambient Occlusion,Emissive,Diffuse,Opacity,Specular,Glossiness,Reflection,Displacement,Etc Unity 5 use PBR, how we can use PBR in Ksp if we can. How many polygons for each models and collision mesh. My collision mesh can be multiple collision box ? How i can use Rescale Factor on X/y/z only ? How i can use dynamic material in Ksp ? I searched on forums but they look outdated for Unity 5.3
  15. NOTE BEFORE I START: If anyone looks on my profile, they will see 2 failed modding attempts. The overwhelming reason for this is not that i lack commitment, that I have no clue how to use Unity, or other such things. I am simply, absolutely terrible at texturing. I am a decent 3-D modeler, but i can never make any textures that look stockalike. I have tried a hundred and one times and it is just terrible. So, i am reaching out to texture artists and other modders who might cooperate with me, for instance @Well who made the Kraken Science mod with only texturing, no modeling. Thanks to anybody who read this. Celestian Launchers My goal is to make stockalike upper and lower-stage parts that go together but can be used separately. For instance, the engine/skirt/mount on the lower stage could be used on another 2.5 meter-wide launcher, and the fuel-tank (It has 3-d fuel pipes on the outside, inspired by Atlas V. Too non-stockalike?) can also be used on other launchers because the stock tanks do not have any detail, and to be honest i don't know many mods that add tanks like that. My first goal is to make parts for payload launchers at 2.5, 3.75, and 1.25 scale. I am doing 2.5 meters first because that is what i use most. 2.5 First Stage: https://sketchfab.com/models/086e4611b847402fac9786341cd80c27 2.5 Upper Stage: https://sketchfab.com/models/9e8514b9d2f74a139a2ec3a50fc4fd8d (Note: The upper-stage is meant to go in a fairing. The stacking would be like this: First Stage, Fairing Base, Upper-stage, Payload. 3.75 Lower Stage: https://skfb.ly/SsO9 3.75 Upper Stage: https://sketchfab.com/models/1c62888f14ef463292d7b4d8ca6f29eb (Note: The rounding thing on the top is the heatshield. The upper-stage is meant to be recovered. The lower stage also has the ability to land like the Falcon 9. I added landing gear and in the R.O/RSS configs the engines will have more than one ignition.) 1.25 Lower Stage: https://skfb.ly/SsRo 1.25 Upper Stage: https://sketchfab.com/models/80d15db0747347a888a9d02f75d008e5 This is my progress so far! Roadmap! Stage One: Light Payload Launchers, Modeling 100% done, Texturing 0% done, Unity/configs 0% done. Stage Two: Manned Launchers. Stage Three: Service Modules and capsules Stage Four: Space Station parts Stage Five: landers. Goodbye and thanks for reading!
  16. Hi, I with a couple of others are developing a space station simulator game with the same visual style as ksp, rendered in unreal engine 4 (we have an example of the ksp shuttle in the environment and a pod of our own construction also) but the problem is this, we have one textuer/modeler that works on his own models (the example pod is his) and then there is me, Im a modeller and absolutely pants at getting even close to the style e desire from the textur, so we are looking for a dedicated texturer to work with our team of 4 so we can maintain the style and hopefully boost productivity, should the game ever make it through dev there will of corse be a div of the money made but we would hope this would not be a primary concern!
  17. I have recently been working on textures and experimenting with he best way to do this, and in blender a good way to texture is to assign multiple materials to one mesh and texture them independently. now i tried doing this and it worked very well until i put the models into the game and the said mesh is invisible, this leads me to wonder if it is myself at fault or can ksp not use meshes with multiple materials? Any help would be much appreciated.
  18. I'm trying to duplicate the Big-S Delta wing part with a different texture. I make a new .cfg and have duplicted the part in game. I've been told to try adding texture=////{texture} in the model module of my new part, but I think the .mu file is referencing the original texture still. help?
  19. Hello! This is my first forum post. I was wondering if it would be possible to re-texture the monoliths in Kerbal Space Program to remove the Squad logo? It was kind of an immersion killer when I found a monolith on the moon for my first time, and I saw that it had a monkey's face on it. I'm a huge fan of 2001: A Space Odyssey and I always felt like KSP was trying to connect back to that movie, so It'd be great if someone could point me in the right direction of the texture file for the monolith so I can edit it? I'm kind of a noobie at creating mods, but I've re-textured things before in Skyrim and Fallout 3. Thanks in Advance! David Bowie
  20. Intermediate Texturing Guide. (Colour, Specular and Normal maps) If you want a fullscreen album then here is a direct link to it on Imgur. You can Alt+Tab between the text below and the album if you open the album in a new browser window. This is a quick a dirty guide about making semi-professional textures that I made for the Open Part Mod. Not for absolute beginners. The guide assumes you're familiar with basic 3D and texturing concepts and that you're comfortable with Blender, GIMP and Inkscape or other equivalent programs. Having said that, I tried to make the guide clear enough so that you can google things if you need to. Feel free to ask questions, point out errors and share your knowledge to help me improve this guide. Unwrapping and AO Image #1 This shows how I unwrapped the spherical tank. A larger number of sections decreases the amount of texture warping, but increases number of texture seams, which can sometimes be problematic. This is personal preference but I think 8 sections is a good balance. Here I've also kept the middle two face loops completely connected and edited those UVs to be a perfect rectangle, in case I want to easily add a horizontal texture later on, like text or a straight line. This model is unwrapped without any overlap but you can bake AO on models with overlapping UV. Whether or not it looks good depends on two things: Whether the overlapping islands are the same and in the same place, which will happen if you duplicate a mesh. This will allow the AO to look the same for all duplicates. Whether the overlapping islands receive the same ambient light. This means the surrounding geometry must be the same and in the same place with respect to all duplicates. This precludes the AO artefacts which are the result of the program fighting over which light intensity to choose. Both of these must be true if you want good looking overlapping AO. Keep in mind that overlapping UVs might (depending your your model) make it more difficult to remove texture seams with texture paint. When choosing your texture size, which can be done at any point before you baking AO, you should keep in mind pixel density. 128px/m is probably pushing the boundaries of what looks good and it's the minimum you should be aiming for. 256px/m is roughly the pixel density of B9 parts and it's a good balance between memory usage and good looking parts. The pixel density in the example above is a little under 128px/m. This is partly because of the large amount of empty space between the UV islands. You will have a lot of fun optimising texture space usage especially if you decide to keep rings intact. Blender has tools for automatically equalising pixel density and for optimising texture space usage, but it works best with convex UV islands. It will not place smaller UV islands inside enclosed islands like a ring or even concave islands like something in the shape of a "C". The example above is only one part, but if you have a project with more than one .mu files or parts you can save memory by filling in the unused texture space with UVs from more than one mesh object, but remember that each mesh object in a .mu file can only have one material applied to it. Sharing a texture between meshes can save memory, but doesn't necessarily save HDD space. In order to keep your textures as small as possible in terms of disk space, make sure that the unused space in a texture is all a single colour. This helps with compression of some file types. You can also see here the Ambient Occlusion map with the settings I used. The default settings make AO really blurred, so I decreased the Attenuation distance to 20cm. I think that's more realistic that way. The ring tops and bottoms are continuous, again to keep texture seaming to a minimum. It's not the most efficient but it makes for nicer textures. It's very difficult to predict the amount of time you'll spend unwrapping a model, since it's directly linked to the complexity of the model. Image #2 This shows the way I've unwrapped that bent pipe section. This way isn't always necessary, but keeping all the UVs parallel and perpendicular allows you do easily make textures that look like they're made of interlocking rings (like those shower head bendy hoses for example). This works best when the pipe was made mathematically perfect, with a bezier curve for example. Texture foundation Image #3 I downloaded a scratched metal texture from a free website, and decreased the contrast so it's not as noisy. Disregard AO for the time being. Image #4 Applying this simple texture results in visible seams. I need to fix this. Image #5 Doing this requires Texture Paint (or equivalent tool in whatever app you're using). You need to save your background texture as a copy with a different name. This will be your stencil. Make sure your base texture is active in the image view window for the mesh you're using. I've circled the settings that are important to me, but you can experiment. The Texture in Texture Paint settings should be your stencil texture and NOT your base/colour texture. Then just paint on the model on the seams using the stencil, and when you're done save the colour texture in your Image view and import it as a layer in your texture source file. Image #6 No more seams! Image #7 AO should be a new layer in multiply mode above the base texture. This is the result. A nice foundation. This took me about 30 minutes, but if you know what you're doing you can do it in 5. Adding some colour Image #8 Firstly I need to know where to apply those colour. Blender allows you to export the UV layout in SVG format, which you'll need to open in Inkscape and merge all the objects into one. This can then be imported into GIMP as paths. If you don't merge all the faces in Inkscape then each triangle will be imported as a separate path. You can of course merge various groups of faces into separate objects in the SVG file, and each merged object will be imported as a separate path. Images #9, #10, #11, and #12 In my experience (and I have no professional training) there are three main way of applying colour to a texture. They are done using the various Layer Modes. Multiply (#9). This is to make an existing texture have a different colour while keeping the the noise underneath similar. This is good for making the texture look like it's made of a particular material, like the copper pipe. Overlay or Hard Light (#10 and #11). This is to make a surface look like it has paint on it. I used this to "paint" the tank grey, and add the stripes. Normal (#12). This is best for adding something that's meant to be a decal, like the warning labels. All of these should be between your AO Multiply layer and your background layer. You can obviously experiment with other layer modes for colours, but I think these three are the most important. I should mention that the less UV overlap you have, the more varied your texture can be. My way of unwrapping allowed me to add two different warning labels and leave all other sides grey. Image #13 This is the result. I literally did nothing except what I described here. It's starting to look good, but there are still three main things to do. This took me a couple of hours but I spent most of that time experimenting with what looks best. If you have everything planned out this can take as little as 15 minutes. Weathering Image #14 First I need a stencil with which I'll paint a rough mask. I looked for a metal texture with lots of scratches, and edited it to be greyscale, with a white background and prominent scratches. All you need to do is desaturate, and adjust levels. Image #15 Starting with a white background I painted the mask to a new image using Texture Paint as before, very roughly. I fix it later. Image #16 In GIMP you need to invert it. As a mask, the black parts determine what's invisible, and white determine what's visible. I edited everything to be more subtle in terms of size, dabbed away a lot with a dirt brush and increased the contrast a bit. The resulting mask is applied to a bright metal texture, which is placed right under the AO layer, because the scratches should affect paint and decals. I keep a backup of the mask because I'll use it later for the specular mask. Image #17 Result. I'm pretty sure I didn't place the damage in all the right places, but this kind of thing is way beyond me. It would take some kind of simulation to determine realistic damage placement. This can be done in about 30 minutes conservatively. Specular Map and Normal Map This is probably the simplest part of this texture so I did them all in one go. Image #18 This is the specular map. It's composed of the layers from the colour map. All you need to do is copy all relevant layers, lock alpha of each of the layers and bucket fill each layer with an appropriate grey colour. All colours need to be greyscale. For parts like the copper pipe, I kept the noise, desaturated and adjusted levels. Bright is very reflective, dark is matte. Image #19 This is the bump map. It is made in the same way as the specular map, except of course colours have to be edited a bit. Bright is high, dark is low. Image #20 This is the normal map. It is generated from the bump map, I made it subtle because scratches aren't very deep and decals aren't very thick. Image #21, 22, 23 Maps applied to the model. Colour (#21), colour and specular (#22) and all together (#23). If you have your layers well made, this can take about 30 minutes I guess. That's all folks! If you're going to make an actual part you need to apply the specular map (as a mask) to a merged copy of the colour map and export as an image with alpha. I'm not doing that because that's not the focus of this thread.
  21. Intermediate Texturing Guide - Panels and Edge Damage If you want a fullscreen album then here is a direct link to it on Imgur. You can Alt+Tab between the text below and the album if you open the album in a new browser window. Not for absolute beginners. The guide assumes you're familiar with basic 3D and texturing concepts and that you're comfortable with Blender, GIMP and Inkscape or other equivalent programs. Having said that, I tried to make the guide clear enough so that you can google things if you need to. Feel free to ask questions, point out errors and share your knowledge to help me improve this guide. Preparation Image #01 First unwrap your model. The aim here is to make the texture quite crisp, so it's best if you snap vertices to pixels. Give your islands about 10 pixels of space between them. Image #02 The foundation of your texture will be clean-ish metal. You can find one online. Find a texture that large enough to give you 256px per metre. Decrease the contrast, so it's only a little bit noisy. Image #03 Next create your mask which we'll use later to randomise the damage a little bit. Find a texture with a lot of small scratches. Image #04 Edit the levels using the top three handles to increase the contrast. Desaturate. The Panels Image #05 Import your UV layout as a path. If you don't know how, then read this tutorial first. Create a new Layer for your panel seams. Using the Pencil Tool draw straight 1px lines where you want your panel seams to be. You can leave some space between the panels and the UV edges if you want. It might or might not look better depending on the model you're making. Image #06 If you want diagonal edges, then draw your diagonal line as normal, then add one line on each side, using the Pencil Tool at 33% opacity. Image #07 Duplicate your panel seams layer. Apply Gaussian Blur. Use a setting of 20. This makes the texture look a bit less flat. The Damage Image #08 Highlight your panel seams layer. Use the Fuzzy Select Tool to select the transparent areas between the panel lines, as well as the transparent area outside of the panels. Make sure the threshold is low enough to not select the partially transparent pixels near the diagonal lines. Shrink the selection by 1 pixel. Distort the selection using the settings shown. Click "Selection to Path" in the Paths dialogue. Image #09 Create a new layer for your damage. Select the Paintbrush Tool. Pick the hard brush. Set size to 1. Click "Apply Jitter". Set Jitter to 2. Make the colour white. Highlight your damage path and your damage layer. Click "Paint along the path" and choose the Paintbrush Tool. Image #10 Repeat step #08, except use a "Smooth" value of 1. You should have two slightly different paths now. Create a second layer for damage. Select the Paintbrush Tool. Set size to 2. Highlight your second damage path and your second damage layer. Paint along the path. Use the Gimpressionist filter with the Crosshatch preset on your second damage layer. Lock the transparency. Image #11 Fill the layer with the white color. Image #12 Apply the mask you created earlier to the second "crosshatched" damage layer. Select the mask. Bring up the Levels dialogue and use the top sliders until you get the amount of damage you want. If you want you can also at this point paint some random scratch lines on this layer. The mask will make the lines look broken up and the scratches will look a lot more natural. Image #13 Go back to your first damage layer. Pick a tiny white jittered brush and fill in the corners. Finishing Image #14 Using only a copy of the original panel lines layer and a background, create a normal map. Image #15 Using the damage layers, panel lines layer and a background, create a specular map. Image #16 You can add a multiplied layer with some colour for your panels. You can also play around with the amount of damage by either decreasing the opacity of the layers or by applying a random mask, or modifying the existing one. Image #17 Finished product in Blender with all three maps applied.