The Raging Sandwich

Astrophotography Mega Thread

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1 hour ago, NSEP said:

Too bad i cant have a good look at start clusters and stuff, the population is dense here in The Netherlands, and dense population+technology=light pollution.

same here, the telescope is sleeping since 25 years in the cellar ... paris and fogs and street light ... staring at the moon miss me so much 

Edited by WinkAllKerb''

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You sadly are in good company. Light "pollution", besides atmospheric things, is among the biggest problems for all things astro from earth. I lived in the crowded Stuttgart area for many years, from out of the cities only the brightest stars were visible. Out in the fields anything below ~30 degrees above the horizon disappeared in a constant orange glow of dust and artificial lights. Also you couldn't do a many long term exposures without a trail of lights from airplanes.

This place here is protected from overflights by night and in theory unnecessary lights are forbidden. In theory ...

I have realized that over the last five years the number of satellites has increased. I have a lot of trails on the first long term exposures in the first 1-2 hours after sunset and before sunrise (see below :-)).

I gave it another try yesterday before sunrise despite of a high veil of clouds. I've hit the distance corrector-camera better than in the first try in November (am still a little too short as can be seen in the corners). The spikes and blurriness all over the photo are from the high clouds. M45, 9*8min, only L-filter, darks and bias.

AeDcHQ2.jpg

 

Edited by Green Baron

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The weather is improving. I'm showing off my next test. Can't continue with Plejades because they are right above in the evening and thus out of reach (camera would hit leg of mount). So i aimed at Orion.

Just plain 10*4min, no darks or biases because test. Just stacked and no further ado. Seems like i am close to the focus now but having a slight tilt in the optical axis. Stars in the lower half are slightly prolonged compared to those above. Chinese brand washers, you know :-) Will probably have to go to fine mechanics workshop and have me a washer moulded.

ic9rH9r.jpg

Slightly overexposed it seems ...

Slowly i'm working myself towards showing something on astrobin or german astronomie.de and gather tips from the experienced.

:-)

 

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I am so fortunate that the area I recently moved to is empty and not a lot of people live here. Sadly, my telescope is still 1000 miles away. @Green Baron your images are amazing. 

 

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Ok, for 2 hours there was an open sky yesterday and i could do the third try with RGB, this time successfull. Conditions were suboptimal, it was windy and there were a few cirrus clouds. I couldn't get the image any sharper.

RGB, no L because i don't yet know how to combine them properly without L dominating the colours, 8*2min each colour, no biasses, no darks, cooler inactive. Just stacked with DSS and colour channels combined with Fitswork. No further corrections.

Will do a more sophisticated version and post it on Astrobin and hope to get a few tips from the savants ...

5zLYM4E.jpg

My stuff is almost ready now (except for the tilt in axis), good weather may come :-)

Edited by Green Baron

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On 29/11/2016 at 2:39 PM, tater said:

9041bae5-bc3c-4fe0-beca-d2e5ffa14bac.jpg

Plate camera on the 24" (0.6m) Boller and Chivens Cassegrain reflector at the Capilla Peak Observatory. It was before we installed the CCD. It had been used for years with a photometer, and we stuck the old plate camera on and messed around with it. The plates had been in the fridge for a LONG time, and many were moldy (notice blob lower right). I took the image (hand-guiding the scope), an developed the plate as well in the darkroom (chemicals were also pretty ancient).

 

No way!! That is totally awesome, man!

Tell me, how much that equipment cost you? That photo just made my day!

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Cost? Nothing. :D 

The telescope belongs to the University of New Mexico, and the materials were so old we decided to just play with it before it all went bad. This was like 30 years ago, back when putting a CCD on in place of the photometer was a big deal.

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On 1/24/2017 at 9:41 PM, Green Baron said:

Ok, for 2 hours there was an open sky yesterday and i could do the third try with RGB, this time successfull. Conditions were suboptimal, it was windy and there were a few cirrus clouds. I couldn't get the image any sharper.

RGB, no L because i don't yet know how to combine them properly without L dominating the colours, 8*2min each colour, no biasses, no darks, cooler inactive. Just stacked with DSS and colour channels combined with Fitswork. No further corrections.

Will do a more sophisticated version and post it on Astrobin and hope to get a few tips from the savants ...

My stuff is almost ready now (except for the tilt in axis), good weather may come :-)

In order to remove the overexposed core of the nebula you need to take very short exposures eg. 20x10secs of L and then blend that to the main L channel using an image processing program

Here is my take on the Orion nebula with the mentioned technique

Spoiler

9b1c8083a44110bab227f261a6a66bbf.16536x1

 

 

At this link you can see my other photos i have http://www.astrobin.com/users/kookoo_gr/

Very nice photos you got there keep up the good work.

Edited by kookoo_gr

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Thank you, @kookoo_gr, so it is classic hdr technique, then. Will try this the next time, it's been cloudy in the past days.

I have just registered me on Astrobin. And thanks for the wonderful M42 ! Give me some more time, i'll catch up ;-)

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I am not a fan of HDR i have seen many photos and most of them go too far and the photos end up to ''edgy'' for my liking. My M45 was done only with levels, curves, masks and layers using Photoshop and the fact that i had a very good set of data.

 

Here is a video for blending the core of M45 at an overexposed image, you can use this method for galaxies too like M31 or overexposed stars

Unfortunately it's in Greek but i believe you can make out the procedure, if not i can help you. First make sure you align the two photos with the software of your choice and then use an image processing software, at this video the photographer uses the final combined images but the best choice is to do this method only at the L layer and then combine the color.

Edited by kookoo_gr

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Yesterday was a fine day for astronomy in BC (except that it was so bloody freezing and windy) as these three were together. 

D04UocQ.jpg

The bright thing next to the moon is Venus and the very dim dot to the top right of the moon is Mars. Two planets in one crappy iPhone photo, what a deal! I took the opportunity to take out my old telescope and got this with my iPhone through the lens:

OAk2gBl.jpg

Not a bad picture of the moon using only an iPhone and a cheap telescope from Hong Kong. The ISS also flew over me, but I was too slow to react.

Today I tried another attempt at a moon photo, except during dusk, and captured this:

jDXwbY1.jpg

I'm quite surprised that the iPhone camera managed to capture most of the detail. 

I managed to catch the ISS today as well.

Spoiler

XZ38mgW.jpg

This is my professional telescope: the SkyEagleProBro Master 2 Electric Boogaloo 5000.

Spoiler

0kLbgvH.jpg

 

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3 hours ago, CelticCossack51 said:

Yesterday was a fine day for astronomy in BC (except that it was so bloody freezing and windy) as these three were together. 

I got a 10 inch Newtonian astrograph for Christmas and have taken it outside 3 times. If you wanna count the times I was actually able to do something 2. This weekend, it might clear up. I don't care how cold it is. I almost lost it being able to see the moon.

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What's worse? A frosted mirror, or thermal turbulence in the tube?

I ask because the last time I went out the mirror has a nice layer of ice on it.

http://imgur.com/tqurPfH

thats my my mirror after 10 minutes of sitting inside.

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We all have these problems. That happens if you don't let it adapt to the changes. I doubt that too much frost/water will be good for the mirror coating in the long run (mold, bactaria, pollen, etc.), so let it adapt slowly to temperature changes. Put it in the garage or in cool dry place after viewing until the next morning. Don't wipe moisture off with a towel or so, use optical cleaning stuff only if necessary. The reflective coating is not hardened, if will scratch easily, so only clean it if it has visible dirt on it. Leave dust where it is, it'll be back anyway. Blow perpendicular, not directly on the surface. Stow the scope upright with the mirror at the top facing down so it will not serve as a dust shelf.

Don't use an ultrasonic cleaning device like the opticians use for our wearing glasses. The coating will be off afterwards :-)

Sorry if talking old ....

 

I got a version 0.2 of my orion nebula. Same data, different processing. LRGB composite this time, DSS for stacking and PixInsight for the LRGB. Down with those satellites ...

asxspt6.jpg

 

Lots of noise and artifacts. There'll be a version 0.3 soon(tm).

 

Edited by Green Baron
aversion for a version

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