Alphasus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Camacha said: The same could be said for the tactile bump in other switches. The bump is there for no other reason than to have it there. MX Black and Red are the most pure switch from a mechanical point of view, but provide no feedback. I never meant that as a bad thing or as a judgemental statement. It's just a statement of fact that mechanical switches naturally would have no tactility or click.I think heavy tactility is enough feedback for me. So, I don't use clicky switches. Other people might, but that doesn't change that both tactility and clickiness are artificially added to mechanical switches. Edited January 23, 2017 by Alphasus Extra enter under the quote, removed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camacha Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Alphasus said: I never meant that as a bad thing or as a judgemental statement. It's just a statement of fact that mechanical switches naturally would have no tactility or click.I think heavy tactility is enough feedback for me. So, I don't use clicky switches. Other people might, but that doesn't change that both tactility and clickiness are artificially added to mechanical switches. Much to my surprise, clicky keys sound much less clicky with the keycap removed. Apparently, the stem part is only part of the story. It seems to need the keycap to funnel or amplify the sound. But yes, any feedback or sound is artificial Edited January 23, 2017 by Camacha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphasus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Camacha said: Much to my surprise, clicky keys sound much less clicky with the keycap removed. Apparently, the stem part is only part of the story. It seems to need the keycap to funnel or amplify the sound. But yes, any feedback or sound is artificial PBT keycaps also make clicky switches quieter instead of ABS keycaps in my case. I guess the sound is channeled, but the keycaps doesn't create sound, because my tactile switches don't get louder or quieter except for the rare bottoming out noise when I go from ABS to PBT. PBT makes the bottoming out noise, and depending on thickness I'll bet, all noises, quieter based on results with clicky switches(Razer Greens) and my bringing in some PBT caps to a local store to test with. Edited January 23, 2017 by Alphasus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoclone09 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) O-rings bring down volume a lot, my Gat Browns are a lot quieter with the o-rings on, but that's because I bottom out. Edited January 23, 2017 by legoclone09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphasus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 4 minutes ago, legoclone09 said: O-rings bring down volume a lot, my Gat Browns are a lot quieter with the o-rings on, but that's because I bottom out. Loading gif O-rings also really change how switches feel and can sometimes cause mushy switches. I prefer Zealencio silencing clips to O-rings to keep feeling similar while decreasing noise that isn't click noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoclone09 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Just now, Alphasus said: O-rings also really change how switches feel and can sometimes cause mushy switches. I prefer Zealencio silencing clips to O-rings to keep feeling similar while decreasing noise that isn't click noise. Link for the Zealencios? I do have to say I feel less of a bump with o-rings. Might just get a pack of Zealioses though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphasus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 14 minutes ago, legoclone09 said: Link for the Zealencios? I do have to say I feel less of a bump with o-rings. Might just get a pack of Zealioses though. Fair warning, they are expensive. Like $50 for 70 and you need 104. They will be like $70 although if your switches are PCB mounted, not plate mounted, it will be far cheaper to just buy Cherry MX compatible silencing clips. Also Zealencios don't make a huge difference for OEM profile key caps but they do if you have Cherry profile caps. The MX plate mount silencing clips would be better in most cases dollar per dollar. https://zealpc.net/products/zealencio Group buy pre order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoclone09 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Alphasus said: Fair warning, they are expensive. Like $50 for 70 and you need 104. They will be like $70 although if your switches are PCB mounted, not plate mounted, it will be far cheaper to just buy Cherry MX compatible silencing clips. Also Zealencios don't make a huge difference for OEM profile key caps but they do if you have Cherry profile caps. The MX plate mount silencing clips would be better in most cases dollar per dollar. https://zealpc.net/products/zealencio Group buy pre order Ah, I've got plate mounted and mine are OEM profile. Zealios are expensive Edited January 23, 2017 by legoclone09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantab Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I put O-rings on my Aivia Osmium to cut down the noise, since I will keep bottoming out. I don't really feel any difference in the tactile bump, of course it will make the bottom-out 'softer'. And they've certainly been effective at stopping me from waking up family as I type into the small hours! First I've heard of those 'clips'. Considering they're practically as expensive as a whole keyboard, I wonder if it wouldn't just be better to buy a keyboard that's quieter - IIRC even with the same switches the keyboard build itself affects the noise. Then again, for me it's really just the spacebar rebound that makes the loud noise. Just damping that would cut down drastically on overall volume. Wonder if there's any good ways to target it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphasus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, cantab said: I put O-rings on my Aivia Osmium to cut down the noise, since I will keep bottoming out. I don't really feel any difference in the tactile bump, of course it will make the bottom-out 'softer'. And they've certainly been effective at stopping me from waking up family as I type into the small hours! First I've heard of those 'clips'. Considering they're practically as expensive as a whole keyboard, I wonder if it wouldn't just be better to buy a keyboard that's quieter - IIRC even with the same switches the keyboard build itself affects the noise. Then again, for me it's really just the spacebar rebound that makes the loud noise. Just damping that would cut down drastically on overall volume. Wonder if there's any good ways to target it? I think it's most effective to buy the cheap soft landing pads. They're more expensive than o-rings($13) but shouldn't compromise tactility. Of course, I'd prefer Zealencios. https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,slpads&pid=sl120_cs https://elitekeyboards.com/products.php?sub=access,slpads&pid=sl120_cf Edited January 24, 2017 by Alphasus Added price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog88 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 @cantab @Elthy @legoclone09 @steve_v @Ten Key Thank you guys for helping me out last month! I ended up deciding to build my first pc. It definitely has not been put to the test fully yet but I built a beast! I know it might be overkill but why not. i7 6700k / 32GB RAM / GTX 1080 No idea how to post a picture on here unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoclone09 Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 @Bulldog88 You can upload a picture to Imgur and paste the direct link into the post, and congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_v Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 On 29/01/2017 at 1:31 PM, Bulldog88 said: i7 6700k / 32GB RAM / GTX 1080 That'll go pretty well methinks It's pretty much the top end in every depertment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qwarkk Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hi guys, looking at finally investing in a gaming computer so i can actually launch rockets without watching a slideshow. Trouble is, I know very little about PC components. Some quick background: KSP is the main game I play, and i want the PC to run a heavily modded save and launch 200+ part rockets without breaking sweat. I also want the pc to be pretty quiet. Audio quality isn't a priority. Budget is around £700 for just the PC. I'll purchase the monitor/keyboard later. I'm currently building my own pc on PCSpecialist.co.uk (is this recommended, or should I be buying a ready made PC for my first time?) and have the following set up of components: Intel i5-6500 (3.2Ghz) quad core processor ASUS H110M-R motherboard (the motherboard is the thing i know least about) 8GB Kingston dual DDR4 RAM 2GB Nvidia GTX 1050 graphics card 1TB WD SATA harddrive 450 W power supply (will this be enough to power it all?) Corsair H60 Hydro liquid CPU cooler (liquid cooling is quiet right?) Standard thermal paste (never even heard of thermal paste) Standard audo/wi-fi/usb options no operating system Logitech speakers All comes to around £700. Is there anything i'm missing? And are any of these components too powerful / not powerful enough for this setup? Appreciate the feedback / recommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elthy Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 The i5 is a good choice, but since Ryzen (the AMD rival) will be out in ~4 weeks i would recommend to wait, you may regret an early purchase. The 1050 is powerfull enough for KSP even with mods, but the price/performance isnt that good if you cant get a great deal. But since the RX 470 (best bang/buck) is propably overkill you may go with a 1050. The most important part in any PC build/upgrade is an SSD, you should totaly get one because it will feel like a totaly different PC. Applications will launch way, way faster and everything will feel more smooth, an effect you couldnt get with other hardware, no matter the price. A good budget option is the Samsung 750 Evo series. For cooling: Dont go for a compact water cooling solution, those are not realy quiet. They are very good at bringing a CPU to low temperatures (for overclocking), but are louder than a decent air cooler. You could look into a EKL Brocken 2 or a Thermalright Macho for very quiet CPU cooling (the yalso usualy come with some thermal paste) Choosing the right case for you will be hard, since you are on a budget but want a very quiet PC. Most cases come with quite loud preinstalled fans, which you would have to swap or drive at a lower voltage (there are adaptors for that). Im not completly up to date when it comes to quiet cases, so i cant realy recommend one for you. With such an efficient cpu/gpu any PSU will be enough for you, i doubt you will need much more than 150W under full load. So you should look for a good PSU with a high efficency thats rated for a lower wattage (<450W) and has tests which show it as very quiet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legoclone09 Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 @Qwarkk Yeah, right now for mid-range PCs the one thing is wait for Ryzen. For cooling I have a CRYORIG H7, but CRYORIG coolers are not available in the UK. A RX 470 is definitely best bang for your buck, check r/bapcsalesuk (I think that's the subreddit) for PC part sales. I saw a 4GB RX 470 on sale for $120 USD the other day. I can probably write some more when I'm home, I'm on my phone right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSEP Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Is it possible to insert a new graphics card, something like from the GTX 700 series, into something originaly built with a GT 320 graphics card, without any problem? Without building a new PC entirely? Just asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elthy Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Possible yes, e.g. a GTX 1050 would need about the same power and could fit if the case has 2 slots for the GPU (a GT 320 seems to be single slot). But most GPUs need additional power cables, which are propably not supplied by your PSU. But its very unlikely it makes sense to put a recent GPU in such an outdated budget PC, its very possible to be bottlenecked by the CPU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cantab Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 1 hour ago, NSEP said: Is it possible to insert a new graphics card, something like from the GTX 700 series, into something originaly built with a GT 320 graphics card, without any problem? Without building a new PC entirely? Just asking. Maybe. Without a lot more information it's impossible to know. Will it fit in the case? You'll have to check the dimensions. Will the power supply run it? You'll have to check the make and model and the connectors. If it won't, can the power supply be replaced? You'll have to check the form factor and what connectors go to the motherboard. Will the motherboard support the graphics card? 99% of boards will have no problems, but there are a few weird ones out there, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camacha Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, NSEP said: Is it possible to insert a new graphics card, something like from the GTX 700 series, into something originaly built with a GT 320 graphics card, without any problem? Without building a new PC entirely? Just asking. Possibly, but experience tells us that most pre-built computers have little overhead to spare for upgrades. Some do, though, so it fully depends on your specific computer. Edited February 10, 2017 by Camacha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZooNamedGames Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Any suggestions as to how to overclock an AMD A4-5000 APU (Radeon HD Graphics) desktop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camacha Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 58 minutes ago, ZooNamedGames said: Any suggestions as to how to overclock an AMD A4-5000 APU (Radeon HD Graphics) desktop? Is it a desktop or a laptop? Does your motherboard support overclocking? What kind of cooling do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZooNamedGames Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 30 minutes ago, Camacha said: Is it a desktop or a laptop? Does your motherboard support overclocking? What kind of cooling do you have? First question I answered in my initial post (please read do not skip people's posts). As to the other two. I haven't got a clue nor how to figure it out. It's a HP Pro desk 405 G1 MT , product number: L5M60US#ABA . so you want to find the details that's its information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camacha Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Just now, ZooNamedGames said: (please read do not skip people's posts). I did not. The chip in question is a laptop chip (that in this case happens to be in a desktop) and people tend to be fairly inaccurate in their questions. The question was asked for good reason. Just now, ZooNamedGames said: As to the other two. I haven't got a clue nor how to figure it out. You can check your BIOS/UEFI to see whether you can change the CPU clocks. Though I guess the answer will be no, because right now everything points towards the system being a cheap and cheerful office and light gaming system that are typically the opposite of an overclocking system. Even if overclocking is possible, a standard cooler is not going to leave you much room. Instead of just disappointing you: what performance are you actually trying to improve, CPU or GPU? It might be possible to improve the GPU performance by adding a card, if your PSU is also up to snuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZooNamedGames Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 1 minute ago, Camacha said: I did not. The chip in question is a laptop chip (that in this case happens to be in a desktop) and people tend to be fairly inaccurate in their questions. The question was asked for good reason. You can check your BIOS/UEFI to see whether you can change the CPU clocks. Though I guess the answer will be no, because right now everything points towards the system being a cheap and cheerful office and light gaming system that are typically the opposite of an overclocking system. Even if overclocking is possible, a standard cooler is not going to leave you much room. Instead of just disappointing you: what performance are you actually trying to improve, CPU or GPU? It might be possible to improve the GPU performance by adding a card, if your PSU is also up to snuff. It's an APU. So there's nothing I can do. Great so I have nothing I can do in the mean time except to wait for either gracious donations or until I have the money. God I'm tired of lagging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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