Car Issues QnA....

[Spacescifi]

Here is where you can throw your car issues onto the interwebs so others may understand or be able to help.

 

I go first.

My car would not start in the parking lot. Strangely I heard the ignition sound but no engine. After a few tries and a few minutes later I managed to turn the keys and heard the car engine begin to crank to life... but only briefly before dying. No car indicator warning lights came on whatsoever.

Not even a battery light.

I presumed maybe my battery was low since my headlights were on with the engine off for about 15 min.

 

So later on after calling my insurance tow truck for help, and tried to crank my car on again and strangely... the car started without issue.

 

To make sure it was not a fluke I drove it and parked, turned it off, then cranked the engine to life once more after about ten minutes.

 

Anybody wanna tell me what's going on with my frankinstein of a car?

 

I am betting my connection wires are worn, because they look like it, plus a guy at an auto shop said so aftee looking at them.

 

I intend to go to a mechanic on the weekend to get all of this sorted and over.

Edited March 11 by Spacescifi

[TheSaint]

1 minute ago, Spacescifi said:

Here is where you can throw your car issues onto interwebs so others may understand or be able to help.

 

 

I go first.

 

My car would not start in the parking lot. Strangley I heard the ignition sound but no engine. After a few tries and a few minutes later I managed to turn the keys and heard car engine begin to crank to life... but only briefly before dying. No car indicator warning lights came on whatsoever.

Not even a battery light.

I presumed maybe my battery was low since my headlights were on with the engine off for about 15 min.

 

So later on after calling my insurance tow truck r help, and tried to crank my car on again and strangely... the car started without issue.

 

To make sure it was not a fluke I drove it and parked, turned it off, then cranked the engine to life once more after about ten minutes.

 

Anybody wanna tell me what's going on with my frankinstein of a car?

 

I am betting my connection wires are worn, because they look like it, plus a guy at an auto shop said so aftee looking at them.

 

I intend to go to a mechanic on the weekend to get all of this sorted and over.

What year, make and model? How many miles? When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs and wires?

[AlamoVampire]

@Spacescifi im going to suggest a potentially unpopular and likely expensive track to follow. Before you take it to your actual mechanic/dealership to try to fix it, take it to several (3, 4 or 5) independent shops and have them run a full diagnostic (code scan all modules ((some codes may be pending or not calling for a check engine light)) and test powers and grounds to vital systems) as it seems you have an intermittent failure that really needs to get caught in action. This wont be cheap, but will be cheaper than a parts canon tryagnostic. Get print outs and reports each time, then present all of it to your trusted mechanic and have him/her repeat one more time. A good body of data may show a common point or suggest where to look. Best of luck!

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[Spacescifi]

1 hour ago, TheSaint said:

What year, make and model? How many miles? When was the last time you replaced the spark plugs and wires?

 

I DMed you.

49 minutes ago, AlamoVampire said:

@Spacescifi im going to suggest a potentially unpopular and likely expensive track to follow. Before you take it to your actual mechanic/dealership to try to fix it, take it to several (3, 4 or 5) independent shops and have them run a full diagnostic (code scan all modules ((some codes may be pending or not calling for a check engine light)) and test powers and grounds to vital systems) as it seems you have an intermittent failure that really needs to get caught in action. This wont be cheap, but will be cheaper than a parts canon tryagnostic. Get print outs and reports each time, then present all of it to your trusted mechanic and have him/her repeat one more time. A good body of data may show a common point or suggest where to look. Best of luck!

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I have had it code scanned at an auto store as they give free scans and at that time battery light was red and on months ago, but after he gave it the alternator a 'load' as he called it (probably electricity) it shook each time and worked properly.

 

Alternator was fine he said, battery may ir may not be ok, but connecting wures were partially exposed metal, and tiny footprints were around the engine... meaning cats ir rats had been using my engibe as a heat source and perhaps chewing up wires too.

 

Red battery light went off then and has not came back since.

Most likely I will just tke it to my mechanic as so far he has fixed all my problems I have ever handes him each time.

Edited March 11 by Spacescifi

[AlamoVampire]

@Spacescifi those free scans wont go deep enough. You need to get a deep diagnostic run by a technician/mechanic and done at least 2-3 times by 2-3 shops. The “load” that was placed on your battery was to see how your battery handled a current draw or your alternator to see if it was still providing enough charge voltage and amperage to the battery. From what im reading on your op and reply im more confident you have some kind of electrical fault that is only intermittent. Its why Im suggesting multiple shops do a diagnostic deep dive into all modules and use a meter to ohm out and continuity check all vital electrical circuits. There is something going on in your car, the behavior described in your op shows it, the fact it hasnt happened again or that light testing hasnt duplicated the fault isnt indicative that its fixed/resolved. Regarding the indication of animal activity in the engine bay really shows getting a continuity test to all circuits is a must. If you only go to your one mechanic please at least get him to ohm test and continuity test all circuits and visually inspect all harnesses. If its rodents (would be my guess as engine bays in modern cars are tight) they can bork harnesses in places not easily seen with out deep inspection. 
 

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IMPORTANT!! If you have “new” parts on your car, remember: New does not necessarily mean GOOD, it just means never has been installed or used before.

That piece of advice comes from a mechanic i watch on youtube: Rainman Rays Repairs. Good guy, great mechanic.

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Edited March 11 by AlamoVampire

[Spacescifi]

32 minutes ago, AlamoVampire said:

@Spacescifi those free scans wont go deep enough. You need to get a deep diagnostic run by a technician/mechanic and done at least 2-3 times by 2-3 shops. The “load” that was placed on your battery was to see how your battery handled a current draw or your alternator to see if it was still providing enough charge voltage and amperage to the battery. From what im reading on your op and reply im more confident you have some kind of electrical fault that is only intermittent. Its why Im suggesting multiple shops do a diagnostic deep dive into all modules and use a meter to ohm out and continuity check all vital electrical circuits. There is something going on in your car, the behavior described in your op shows it, the fact it hasnt happened again or that light testing hasnt duplicated the fault isnt indicative that its fixed/resolved. Regarding the indication of animal activity in the engine bay really shows getting a continuity test to all circuits is a must. If you only go to your one mechanic please at least get him to ohm test and continuity test all circuits and visually inspect all harnesses. If its rodents (would be my guess as engine bays in modern cars are tight) they can bork harnesses in places not easily seen with out deep inspection. 
 

201903102023

IMPORTANT!! If you have “new” parts on your car, remember: New does not necessarily mean GOOD, it just means never has been installed or used before.

That piece of advice comes from a mechanic i watch on youtube: Rainman Rays Repairs. Good guy, great mechanic.

203203102023

 

 

So I ask the mechanic for a deep diagnosis, an ohms test, a continuty check of all circuits and a harness check?

That is what I should say?

 

How much will it cost?

 

I live in norcal (north california).

[AlamoVampire]

I would ask your mechanic to do as deep a diagnostic on the modules of your car as he/she can do. Typically a deep scan will connect to every available module/ PID the car has which can show (depending on the quality of the scanner) stored codes, active codes, history codes(past codes), pending codes and codes that may not be actively calling for a check engine light or other indicator lights. Since possible rodent activity is a concern visual inspection of the harnesses would be advised as well as having him/her connect a multimeter to check circuit integrity by checking the wires resistance or ohm value and a continuity check.

so in list form:

a deep diagnostic scan of all modules/PIDs

visual inspection of the wiring harnesses

an electrical resistance/continuity check

(the last one will serve as confirmation of harness/circuit integrity or confirmation of an issue missed by visual inspection)

as to the cost, i couldnt guess, but, its going to be a bit of a time and energy investment by your mechanic to do this so id guess it will not be cheap. But it has the potential to rule in or out problems in a very thorough way. But do keep in mind if the problem is intermittent there is always a chance (the less frequent an intermittent fault is, the worse the odds of catching it in the act) you wont catch it in the act, but, it may also catch it.

hope this helps  

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Edited March 11 by AlamoVampire

[Hardven]

Based on the information you provided, it sounds like there could be a few possible issues causing the problem with your car. Here are some possible causes:

1. Battery issue: If your car is having trouble starting, it could be a problem with the battery. The fact that you were able to start the car after letting it sit for a few minutes could be a sign that the battery was drained and needed time to recharge.

2. Fuel delivery problem: If your car is not getting enough fuel, it may have trouble starting or may stall out. This could be caused by a clogged fuel filter, a faulty fuel pump, or a problem with the fuel injectors.

3. Ignition system problem: If there is an issue with the ignition system, such as a worn ignition switch or a faulty starter motor, it could cause the engine to fail to start or stall out.

4. Electrical problem: If there is a problem with the electrical system, such as a bad connection or a faulty sensor, it could cause the engine to run poorly or stall out.

Based on your description, it is possible that the problem is related to the worn connection wires that you mentioned. It would be a good idea to take your car to a mechanic to have it checked out to identify the root cause of the problem and to have it fixed.

[AlamoVampire]

@Spacescifi hows goes things with your car?

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[Spacescifi]

On 3/12/2023 at 11:17 PM, AlamoVampire said:

@Spacescifi hows goes things with your car?

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Been starting fine since. I just make a point of turning off my head lights now when the car is parked and I am in it during rainy days.

[Lewie]

Well, I've got an issue. 2012 Ford Fusion SE, 110,000 miles. When I make a left hand turn and apply gas during the turn, there is a grinding noise from my passenger side wheel. When I apply the gas gently/coast there is no noise. Possible driveshaft issue? I live in the midwest, so a salt/rust buildup is likely, but if it is that I don't understand why it only makes the grinding noise when I apply gas. 

Edited March 16 by Lewie

[AlamoVampire]

@Lewie 110k… im gonna guess that you have the original wheel bearing? Sounds like you need new wheel bearings. And id suggest sooner than later as if it fails completely you could get hurt in an accident.

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[Lewie]

Just now, AlamoVampire said:

@Lewie 110k… im gonna guess that you have the original wheel bearing? Sounds like you need new wheel bearings. And id suggest sooner than later as if it fails completely you could get hurt in an accident.

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Will look into it! Thank you very much, this may be just what I'm looking for

[AlamoVampire]

@Lewie just wondering if you got your passenger side wheel noise checked out?

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[StrandedonEarth]

On 3/15/2023 at 5:20 PM, Lewie said:

Well, I've got an issue. 2012 Ford Fusion SE, 110,000 miles. When I make a left hand turn and apply gas during the turn, there is a grinding noise from my passenger side wheel. When I apply the gas gently/coast there is no noise. Possible driveshaft issue? I live in the midwest, so a salt/rust buildup is likely, but if it is that I don't understand why it only makes the grinding noise when I apply gas. 

Front-wheel drive, and front wheel making the noise, I assume? It could also be the CV joint on that side

[Nuke]

i do not like cars. i do not like riding in cars, i do not like driving cars. they are sort of in the same category as smart phones for me. 

[TheSaint]

On 3/24/2023 at 7:58 PM, Nuke said:

i do not like cars. i do not like riding in cars, i do not like driving cars. they are sort of in the same category as smart phones for me. 

My oldest got his learner's permit this last week. Took him out for his first lesson yesterday. Made me reflect on the fact that I really enjoy driving. When we go on road trips I default to driving, not out of any sense that I have to, but because I want to. I just really enjoy it.

[Lewie]

On 3/18/2023 at 11:43 AM, StrandedonEarth said:

Front-wheel drive, and front wheel making the noise, I assume? It could also be the CV joint on that side

Yep. Front passenger side. Only makes the noise when I put a decent amount of pressure on the pedal. Hard to describe. A little bit of gas, no noise...a little bit more then a little and there's noise. It's a grinding sound.

On 3/17/2023 at 7:59 PM, AlamoVampire said:

@Lewie just wondering if you got your passenger side wheel noise checked out?

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not yet. Parents take forever to get anything done. 1,000 miles past due an oil change. Also has been a week since my mother took (and lost) my debit card, has yet to call the bank to cancel it...

[AlamoVampire]

@Lewie With regards to the wheel, I would say for you to tell them it needs to get to a mechanic asap. Reading your response to StrandedonEarth (@ removed to not ping him needlessly) I am more convinced its a wheel bearing. If I am correct and given your parents apathy (per your description of how long it takes them to do even an oil change) at getting work done, they are risking the wheel getting torn off the car. If it is the bearing and it fails completely there is a chance it could tear the hub apart and yeet the wheel. I dont know how long it could take for it to happen or if it will happen but, its a risk if they do nothing for long enough.

With regards to your debit card, if the card and account are in your name or if its a shared account but you have full account access/privileges can you contact the bank to report the card being missing as you said it was your card?

In both cases I wish you the best of luck!

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[Lewie]

On 3/30/2023 at 12:01 AM, AlamoVampire said:

@Lewie With regards to the wheel, I would say for you to tell them it needs to get to a mechanic asap. Reading your response to StrandedonEarth (@ removed to not ping him needlessly) I am more convinced its a wheel bearing. If I am correct and given your parents apathy (per your description of how long it takes them to do even an oil change) at getting work done, they are risking the wheel getting torn off the car. If it is the bearing and it fails completely there is a chance it could tear the hub apart and yeet the wheel. I dont know how long it could take for it to happen or if it will happen but, its a risk if they do nothing for long enough.

With regards to your debit card, if the card and account are in your name or if its a shared account but you have full account access/privileges can you contact the bank to report the card being missing as you said it was your card?

In both cases I wish you the best of luck!

000003302023

It's been making that noise nearly a year now (been getting worse) 

the debit card and account are both in my name, but I am 17 so they do have full control over all my assets 

I have a mechanic friend, he's taking a look at the car for me, thank goodness!

[AlamoVampire]

32 minutes ago, Lewie said:

It's been making that noise nearly a year now (been getting worse) 

the debit card and account are both in my name, but I am 17 so they do have full control over all my assets 

I have a mechanic friend, he's taking a look at the car for me, thank goodness!

If possible (not sure where youre at on earth but assuming north america) as you near 18 talk with your bank to either transfer your assets into a new account or revoke access the instant youre 18. Not suggesting they are bad parents but still as a precaution. Yikes on the year of that noise and yay mechanic friend! Best of luck!

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[Spacescifi]

On 4/12/2023 at 7:19 PM, AlamoVampire said:

If possible (not sure where youre at on earth but assuming north america) as you near 18 talk with your bank to either transfer your assets into a new account or revoke access the instant youre 18. Not suggesting they are bad parents but still as a precaution. Yikes on the year of that noise and yay mechanic friend! Best of luck!

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I think he is Russian or Canadian.

 

[Lewie]

On 4/12/2023 at 9:19 PM, AlamoVampire said:

If possible (not sure where youre at on earth but assuming north america) as you near 18 talk with your bank to either transfer your assets into a new account or revoke access the instant youre 18. Not suggesting they are bad parents but still as a precaution. Yikes on the year of that noise and yay mechanic friend! Best of luck!

211904122023

Update:

Got tires looked at today after I had one go flat. All 4 need to be replaced. 2 were past the safe limit, 2 had chord showing due to alignment...despite me telling my parents for months that we need to get the alignment checked. Currently have a donut replacing the flat. Going to take it in on Monday, will have new tires, alignment, oil change, brake replacement and that noise fixed (hopefully). 

[TheSaint]

So, here's my truck story of the week.

Last week I went to take Thing #1 to his college courses one afternoon. I started up King Taco and it did not sound right. At all. Rough idle does not begin to describe it. But it was running, and it was not throwing a CEL, and we were already five minutes late (par for the course), so I ran with it. When I got home, I hooked up my ODB II reader and checked to see what was going on. Fuel trims seemed to say it was a vacuum leak, but not conclusively. And I'm only 3,000 miles short of the 270,000 mile maintenance, so I figured I could try all of the stuff on that list that could lead to a rough idle first. So I replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and air filter, and I did a quick cleanout on the throttle body. It got better, but it still was rumbly, and the long-term fuel trim was running at about 13% at idle, then dropping to normal at 3,000 RPM, which still says minor vacuum leak. So I bit the bullet and bought a smoke machine on Amazon. It showed up this morning. I went ahead and popped off the intake hose, plugged it up with the smoke machine. Found the leak in about 30 seconds. (It's amazing how easy things are when you have the right tool.) There's this little 4-inch hose on the top of the intake plenum, it taps in just downstream of the throttle body. When I pulled it off, there was a giant crack on the side of one of the ends, totally invisible when the hose was in place. Ran down to Napa, got a replacement (guy just gave me a bit of scrap hose for free. WOOT!). Slapped it in, started it up, runs perfectly normal now.

[AlamoVampire]

2 hours ago, Lewie said:

Update:

Got tires looked at today after I had one go flat. All 4 need to be replaced. 2 were past the safe limit, 2 had chord showing due to alignment...despite me telling my parents for months that we need to get the alignment checked. Currently have a donut replacing the flat. Going to take it in on Monday, will have new tires, alignment, oil change, brake replacement and that noise fixed (hopefully). 

Hopefully all goes well getting it fixed. As for the condition of your tires just yikes. Your parents terrify me with just how bad they let your car get. If I may be honest here, it feels to me they either do not understand just how dangerous a potentially bad wheel bearing (until your mechanic can confirm or deny my suspicion on that particular issue, but still even in general) or tires that badly worn are (which i hope is the case as its the lesser evil here) or worse dont care or cant be bothered to care (either of these last two are bad but the third is far more terrifying to me) but im so seriously not saying its either 3 but either way its scary. I think just to be safe you may (this is just a suggestion) need to have a long discussion with them about why they ignores your entreaties to check the car out and the potential (some of which can if it goes bad enough be lethal to you or others) outcomes of letting things go beyond no return. FWIW an ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure. Best of luck Lewie!

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