Alphasus
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Posts posted by Alphasus
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21 minutes ago, cantab said:
When I got it it was £75 or so I think. Of course that was before Politics (tm) made the exchange rates shift.
75 pounds isn't far from something with Gateron Browns.
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25 minutes ago, cantab said:
On keyboards, I have a Gigabyte Aivia Osmium with MX Browns. Cheap by mechanical keyboard standards, but still so much better than membrane rubbish. I like the MX Brown's feedback, although I think partly because I'm stuck on £10 membrane keyboards at work I've never really learned to not bottom out on my own one.
The only other switches I've felt are the Razer Greens in the shop, and to me the click sounded 'fake'. And isn't that true - isn't the click from something added onto the switch to make that noise, rather than being a core part of the mechanism?
The MX Clears interest me, but I doubt I could justify the cost.
As for form factor, well I know from experience that it drives me batty if a keyboard even rearranges the page navigation keys, never mind removes them. So I don't think I could go for anything smaller than a tenkeyless, and even that would be a bit dubious given I do hit the numpad not infrequently.
How much is that keyboard? I'm seeing it commonly for around $100. In my case, MX Clears cost anywhere from $120 to $150 depending on size. At $150, you get white backlighting and MX Clears, but that's quite expensive.
Gateron Browns are generally agreed upon to be nicer than MX Browns because they are smoother and more tactile. The click in Razer Greens and MX Blues comes from something inside the switch mechanism, but it's not natural at all. The sound comes from the stem causing something below it to snap down quickly, which makes the noise. In other switches, the stem doesn't click because the white part that snaps downward isn't there. All the same, Blues and Razer Greens won't work without the white part below the stem.
In my case, MX Clears cost anywhere from $120 to $150 depending on size. At $150, you get white backlighting and MX Clears on a full size board, but that's quite expensive.
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5 hours ago, Whigr02 said:
What type of psu would you suggest ? Also what are your keyboard and mouse recommendations?
PSU
For a PSU, an EVGA 500B would be a bit better, whereas any Corsair RMx or EVGA Gold rated PSU would be significantly better in your required wattage, which is 400-600 watts with some space for Crossfiring your current RX 470. A Corsair CX500M would also work, and be a bit better than your current EVGA 500W PSU.
Keyboards and Mice
Keyboards and mice are odd to recommend because they're very personal.
Mice
For mice, if you can spend 60 pounds or more on a mouse, I'd recommend any mouse with a 3360 or 3366 sensor, which is flawless with no acceleration. My personal favorites with those sensors are(in order of best to worst) the G403 Wireless(75 pounds), G Pro(70 pounds), G403(52 pounds), or the new Deathadder(80 pounds). For something cheaper, the G102(if you can find it, it's around 40 pounds) has a flawless sensor like the above in a G Pro shape, but its sensor is lower DPI. Otherwise, find an inexpensive mouse from someone like Zowie with a 3310 sensor in a size that you like.
Keyboards
For keyboards, if you have around 60 pounds for a keyboard, see if you can find a keyboard with whatever Gateron switches you like. If there's a store near you to test which switches you like, see which MX, Razer, or Logitech switches you like, and get the Gateron equivalent. Kailh switches and Outemu switches are also options and sell in mechanical keyboards under 50 pounds. Their color coding is the same as the MX color coding. If you have less than 30 pounds, find a membrane keyboard that you like. If you'd prefer mechanical and tested some mechanical keyboards out, save the results of this process for later so that you can easily tell which mechanical keyboard you would like. It wouldn't be a bad idea to spend a little bit on an OK membrane board and use the saved money for a nicer mechanical board.
Mechanical Switches
Razer Green - MX Blue - Gateron Blue - Clicky, Tactile
Razer Orange - MX Brown - Gateron Brown - Tactile
Romer G - a lighter MX Brown - a lighter Gateron Brown - Slightly tactile
All MX switches other than MX Clears have Gateron equivalents in the same color as the MX switches. MX Clears have no Gateron equivalents, but Gateron Browns are closer. Gateron Clears are very light linear switches.
If you have 90 pounds or more, you can likely afford real MX switches. However, Gateron Browns are thought to be better than MX Browns.
If you find a buckling spring keyboard(Model M or Model F) for a low price(sub 50 pounds), it's not a bad option either. The tactility and sharp actuation on buckling springs are legendary, but they are very very loud. Most Model M keyboards are full-size/100%, and it is rare to find a tenkeyless Model M. A refurbished tenkeyless Model M, or Model M SSK, is worth 200-300 pounds on eBay in good condition or better.
Now that you know how to find your preferred switch, I'll explain how to find what form factor would likely be best.
Keyboard Sizes/Form Factors
100%/Fullsize-A keyboard with a numpad, arrow keys, and function keys as well as page navigation keys. Very common form factor.
TKL/80%-A keyboard without a numpad, but with arrow keys, function keys, and page navigation keys. Very common form factor.
66-68%-A keyboard without a numpad but with arrow keys, and some page navigation keys. Used with the Magicforce 68(Gateron or MX) and the Leopold FC660 series(MX only).
60%-A keyboard without a numpad, arrow keys, function keys, or page navigation keys, but with ways to input arrow keys, function keys, and page navigation keys. Often has different keyboard layers so that a user can have "profiles" or layers with certain inputs on them. Used with the Poker series, which is currently on the Poker 3(MX only) and Anne Pro(Gateron), as well as the HHKB(Topre).
40%-A keyboard without a numpad, arrow keys, function keys, number row keys, or page navigation keys, but with ways to input all of those except the numpad. Often has different layers. Is nearly impossible to find preassembled, with the exception being the Vortex CORE(MX only).
With your current computer, install a keypress heatmap(http://whatpulse.org/) and leave the keypress heatmap running for at least 1 day of use, preferably 2. If you rarely or never use the numpad, you can get away with a TKL keyboard. If you rarely or never use the arrow keys and function keys, a 60% board would work for you. If you use the arrow keys but not function keys, a 66-68% board would work out. If you don't often use the number row, a Vortex CORE would work but it's risky if your use case expands. If you use a numpad but not some other parts of a keyboard, you can buy an external numpad and get a smaller form factor keyboard.
Personally, I use a Vortex Poker 3 with Cherry MX Clears(and this reply is so long partially because Clears are amazing to type on in my opinion), which are like more tactile brown switches while still being relatively quiet. Poker 3's are 60% keyboards with support for layers and macros on the firmware of the keyboard. So, when I press a key in a certain layer, let's say layer 4, it can input my password in as a series of keypresses. My recommendations in the size ranges are below:
Keyboard Recommendations
100%: Ducky One or Shine 5 for backlit, Filco Majestouch for non-backlit(both MX). Corsair K70 for MX switches if you don't care about upgradability of keycaps, but the Shine 5 and Majestouch are better boards. Lots of Gateron boards available in this size.
TKL: Ducky One TKL for backlit, Leopold FC750R for non-backlit(both MX). Corsair K65 for MX switches if you don't care about keycap upgradability, but the FC750R is a better board and the One TKL is a bit better too. Lots of Gateron boards available in this size.
66-68%: Magicforce 68 or Leopold FC660M for non-backlit(both MX, MF68 does Gateron too).
60%: Poker 3 for backlit or non-backlit. In the non-backlit variant, it has very high-quality keycaps(PBT and thick) stock(MX). Anne Pro for backlit and wireless, but limited selection of Gateron switches.
40% Vortex CORE for non-backlit. The only backlit options are DIY until a backlit CORE comes out(MX). No Gateron options except for DIY or homebuilt keyboards.
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6 minutes ago, Vanamonde said:
ShockerGamer, your question has been merged into the master thread for this kind of question.
If you don't mind me asking, I can't see this question. Is it on page 167?
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3 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
It's only four pounds more if you get two sticks of this separately: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/qK8H99/kingston-memory-hx421c14fb4, and it's the same RAM except for heat sink.
Fair enough.
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22 minutes ago, Whigr02 said:
Took into account all your advice and switched the i3 for the pentium and got 2x4gb of ram instead of 1x8, also scrapping the wifi adapter which allowed me to fit in an rx470 all for just £20 over budget! Which I can live with!
The power supply could be better. It's a reasonable supply but could be quite a bit more reliable. You do save 10 pounds by going with 1x8, so you could benefit from those savings, bringing you to 510 pounds. Though I doubt you could fit a better PSU. If not, keep the current PSU and build because it works.
I do have some keyboard and mouse recommendations if you need them too.
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5 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
Yeah, I fit in a GTX 1050ti, which'll be on par or better than a RX 470.Looked up some benchmarks and the RX 470 beats the GTX 1050ti, go for that.I've been the Nvidia person here for a while, but even I would get an RX 470 over a 1050 Ti(30% to 40% faster) at the moment because there's a $150 one on Amazon US.
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6 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
A FreeSync monitor would help with having lower framerates, so take that into account when buying a monitor. The new Pentium coming out is 3/4 the price of the i3 6100 and only 0.2GHz less, has hyperthreading as well just like the i3. Also, a 2x4 set of RAM is better than a 1x8 for gaming, and the same price (it's two 1x4 kits because that's cheaper than the 2x4 kit for some reason). Pertaining to the RX 460, on the new ones with 1024 shader cores vs the 896 shader cores, I believe they are better than a 1050 now (benchmark I found). If you have an Ethernet cable you can use, use that because it's much better than wifi, and you won't need to spend the 25 pounds on a wifi card. The GTX 1050ti in this build was only 30 pounds more than the RX 460 and much cheaper than a RX470, so it's a better choice. https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sr9cNN. Just under 500 pounds, I think it'll be better.
21x8 for expandability, though so you can hit 32 GB of RAM at maximum. Also, I was able to fit in an RX 470 above, which should be better than even an unlocked RX 460.
Other benchmarks(or, 1050 still has a 2.3 fps lead at max and 1.5 fps minimum in Witcher 3, one of questioner's games).
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24 minutes ago, Whigr02 said:
So I'm thinking of starting my first ever build soon and as I'm relatively new to pc gaming I thought it get a few opinions on the parts before I begin to buy them all. I currently play ksp on my laptop with all the lowest settings but I want to begin using more mods, especially visual ones, to improve my experience. I have a budget of roughly £500 to buy all the parts, excluding monitor, OS, keyboard and mouse. What sort of performance do you guys think I could expect from this build? Also how do you think this build would cope with other games such as witcher 3, bf1 and gta5 for example?
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/HtqmQV
Thanks
3https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/YBshGf
This build would need a wireless adapter, but I fit an RX 470 in there instead of an RX 460. That's anywhere from 70% to 100% faster than the RX 460. I also fit in a nice case, but you can remove that if you already have it. Just use the saved money for an SSD(like the PNY one, though a 120 GB 750 EVO would be better) and a wireless card. The build you gave will run KSP adequately though its CPU could have a faster single core speed. In Witcher 3, BF1, and GTA5, its video card should be quite a bit faster than an RX 460. The RX470 above would be adequate for that. I dropped the SSD because your budget isn't large enough to justify one if a case is needed too.
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I might make something new for this, but lost all the time needed for battles.
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I got a keyboard! https://imgur.com/a/4p9Bp
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12 hours ago, Camacha said:
Are those clicky?
MX Clears are very very tactile and they don't have sound feedback(other than the clack of bottoming out) but are more tactile than Blues and Razer Greens while not clicking. Their tactile bump is larger than the above 2 switches. They also are harder to actuate than Razer Greens or MX Blues, at 55 cN vs 50 cN(checked Deskthority for that). It is difficult to bottom out Clears due to their 95 cN peak force. Blues have a 60g peak force, so it's not too difficult to bottom them out.
Force/Travel diagram (CN / mm) comparing Cherry MX Clear to Cherry MX Brown. Each graph is the slider color. Shadowed lines are the up-strokes(From Deskthority).
Force/Travel diagram of MX Blues. Lower line is upstroke(From WASD Keyboards).
11 hours ago, legoclone09 said:Well, I got something right for once
According to Deskthority, MX Clears are tactile 55g actuation and 65g to bottom out.
Peak force is bottoming out at 95 cN for clears, actuation is at 55 cN, and tactile bump is at 65 cN. Grams and cN are interchangeable but I prefer cN.
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3 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
Sounds cool, I wanna make a 60% with a left-sided numpad for use, I feel that would be very nice. Making that would be a pain, though, but it'd be fun. I do really wanna try MX Clears sometime also. I should go to one of the r/mk meetups sometime.
You could get a switch tester and test out Clears. With a modular keyboard, just put the MX Clear in wherever you are pressing most often and see how they are.
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2 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
I love the Gat browns. I do wanna get a pok3r or a HHKB sometime for school since the keyboards at school feel like mashed potatoes. How do you like the MX Clears?
I like the huge tactile bump, but am a bad reference for if switches are too heavy. I used a Model M at 80cN and it was quite a bit heavier than actuation on my Pok3r, which I've found to be really hard to measure,but it's either 55 or 65 grams. I'm quite sure it's 65g, but regardless, if you're used to Reds, Browns, or Gateron Clears, the MX Clear will feel heavy because you might try to bottom out. The MX Clears mean I don't bottom out anymore.
An HHKB would be nice, but I'd like a Pok3r in MX Blacks first. Either that or a Vortex Core or some custom 60% board that I build myself with Zealios and Zealencios, aluminum casing, and full programmability.
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29 minutes ago, legoclone09 said:
Keyboards and everything else. I'm using this keyboard right now: https://www.amazon.com/Glorious-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Minimalist/dp/B01D8YNJH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484970833&sr=8-1
Yeah, I only see it on ayymd, I have seen it on r/pcmasterrace as well a bit, but usually when r/ayymd leaks.
At present, I have a Poker 3.
Click the link I guess. It has MX Clears, Blue LEDs, and Vortex PBT Doubleshot Shinethrough keycaps(the new ones with top legends).
How do you like Gateron Browns? I really don't like MX Browns due to the tiny tactile bump, but I hear Gateron Browns have a bigger, smoother bump.
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7 hours ago, Camacha said:
Heat is noise, which matters to some people a lot. Even though I think the difference here is small.
I pick my cards according to power consumption, because I loathe noise. Having a good cooler is part of the solution, not having to dissipate a lot of energy is the basis.
The power consumption difference isn't greater than 20-25W as far as this review says. http://techreport.com/review/30488/amd-radeon-rx-460-graphics-card-reviewed/12
The 750 Ti used 20W less, so that means the RX 460 uses 95W under full load( only variable being GPU) because a 750 Ti uses all 75W. That also means that the real difference between the 1050(Ti) is at least 20 watts. I don't specifically know how much 20W extra power usage can affect heat dissipation.
2 hours ago, legoclone09 said:Yeah, that does work (I am still in high school, though, in my freshman year). What I was trying to say was about the heat, because when I overclocked my CPU upping voltage increased temps, which is what I expect to happen with a GPU as well.
That's not a bad inference. As long as amperage stays the same, voltage should cause temperature to increase, due to wattage increasing. If voltage increases at the same rate that amperage decreases, temperature should hypothetically stay the same.
5 hours ago, legoclone09 said:I've got a MSi cooler on my GPU, the Twin Frozr cooler, they're really quiet and cold, I should check my power consumption, though. Also I believe the voltage delivered to the GPU is what matters, not the wattage needed to run the card. You can always downvolt and downclock the GPU to run quieter.
And yeah sorry about cherrypicking the benchmarks, I think I've spent too much time on r/ayymd.
Yeah, actually using the phrase Novideo shows that to be true. It's only a thing on ayymd as far as I know.
Is this thread just computers or is it keyboards and other peripherals too? I'd like to ask people what keyboards they've been using and want to know if this is the best place to do it.
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1 hour ago, steve_v said:
Sure, for Windows. Which I don't really care much about.
But so what? It's still slower under every other API (including Vulkan, which is the future) and any game you might want to play today.
As well as that, it's less power efficient... to the extent of pulling more than it's stated specification under load and exceeding the PCIE spec for want of another aux power connector.
Fair point if you don't use Windows.
EDIT: Power is almost irrelevant because it is maybe 25W, which won't affect an electric bill much as all. I understand the inconvenience of an extra cable for the GPU though.
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2 minutes ago, steve_v said:
How hard did you have to look to find a benchmark that puts the 460 "neck and neck" with a 1050?
I did a bunch of research before purchasing my 1070 and I couldn't find a single review that (averaging across benchmarks) has a 460 matching a 1050, or a 480 matching a 1060... And as far as I can tell, AMD has nothing at all that can touch the 1070 or 1080.
Speculative "driver updates" are speculative, and I'll believe the "eventually will outperform" bitwhenif it "eventuates".
Why are you insisting that these cards have equivalent performance, when the rest of the internet says otherwise? They're certainly cheaper, but benchmarks say they're also slower.Because the 480 can compete with the 1060 in DX12 which is the future. However, the 460 can't compete with a 1050. Showed that above. The eventually outperform is a trend along most comparable AMD vs Nvidia comparison.
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9 hours ago, legoclone09 said:
GTX 1050 has a higher clock speed, all Nvidia cards do. A RX 460 is neck and neck with a GTX 1050 I believe, but eventually will outperform it due to the way AMD's driver updates work. It's also optimized for DirectX 12 and Vulkan, so it's a better deal. Also a RX 460 4GB ASUS STRIX for $96 is not a bad deal, either. Rebate expires on Jan 31, though. RX 470 is neck-and-neck with the GTX 1050ti and will outperform it in DirectX12/Vulkan games. MSi's Twin Frozr cooler is the best right now I believe, mine on my RX 480 8GB runs very quietly and I can run most games at 1080p/Ultra at 60+FPS, most graphically intensive game I play is Titanfall 2, I average above 60FPS. AMD is also great for FreeSync as well.
EDIT: Found this graph
Found this review website showing on the 2nd page of benchmarks, the 1050 winning by 10 fps or more. On the 1st page of benchmarks, AMD wins very few but they are closer. The RX460 and 1050 aren't neck and neck, as the review site shows. I'll look for a cheap 1050 so sure.
http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2658-gtx-1050-ti-and-1050-review-benchmarks-vs-460-more/page-5
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1 hour ago, legoclone09 said:
Yeah, I doubt they will. I think a RX460+Pentium G4560 is the best choice at this point.
Wouldn't a GTX 1050 be better because it's faster? Or do you mean a 4GB RX460, in which case I recommend a 1050 ti, which is, I'm very sure, faster.
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1 hour ago, legoclone09 said:
AMD is the better value for money, especially if you have a FreeSync screen, they're way cheaper than a G-sync screen, so it's more likely you'd have one. I got a RX 480 myself becuase I was getting a FreeSync monitor. I think the AMD cards are a better value overall, but if you're planning to upgrade again in a few years just go for the 1060 6GB.
@Alphasus Quite a few people on r/pcmasterrace agree that the RX 480 8GB is better than the GTX 1060 6GB. RX 480 4GB is miles ahead of the 1060 3GB, because it is worse performance than the 6GB version, 10% less CUDA cores (that's what I remember off the top of my head).
Thanks! Just was making sure.
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10 hours ago, legoclone09 said:
I think semi-modular is best, you have enough customizability for doing what you want. The RX 480 8GB is better than the GTX 1060 6GB, especially for DirectX 12.
The claim on GPUs is debatable at best and wrong at worst, unless benchmarks have changed since I last checked.
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2 hours ago, aleksey444 said:
How many planes are there now?
With drtricky's entry, 7.
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1 hour ago, TheKosanianMethod said:
I personally don't have time for this tourney, but maybe the next one...
*Scribbles at drawing board*
I really do plan on waiting for 8 planes.
KSP1 Computer Building/Buying Megathread
in KSP1 Discussion
Posted · Edited by Alphasus
Extra enter under the quote, removed it.
I never meant that as a bad thing or as a judgemental statement. It's just a statement of fact that mechanical switches naturally would have no tactility or click.I think heavy tactility is enough feedback for me. So, I don't use clicky switches. Other people might, but that doesn't change that both tactility and clickiness are artificially added to mechanical switches.