KSP1 Computer Building/Buying Megathread

[Amihan]

I swear I've seen this thread before-- why didn't I see it when posting? I'm kind of embarrassed.

i5 and CPU cooler. Got it. Thanks! Overclocking kind of intimidates me, but the cooler does sound like a worthy investment anyway.

Edited February 21, 2015 by Amihan
clarifying

[cantab]

I was thinking of reusing old mice and screens and possibly changing up parts in the future when I find myself in possession of money, but I don't know which parts I'll be able to switch out in the future. Should I just spend more money on certain things right out the door?

Well, technically anything can be changed. But realistically you are going to stick with your case and motherboard. Case generally isn't a big issue, though a good one can make the build process easier. Motherboard choice on the other hand defines the range of processors you can use, and what overclocking options there are, as well as a lot else about your PC.

On the other hand the graphics card, disk drives, and peripherals are good candidates to save money on now and plan a future upgrade. Then again, if games other than KSP are a focus don't spend loads more on the CPU than on the GPU.

And really, you don't at all need an aftermarket CPU cooler. If you're happy to increase the cost of the build then go for it, but if budget's an issue that's the first thing I'd drop.

[joppiesaus]

So I have this PC which was doing strange things

4 months ago, it wouldn't POST(no beep). It was just after my brother brought it downstairs. I removed the RAM to see if it beeped at all and it beeped. I ended up resetting the CMOS a few times, and it worked again.

Then he brought it back to the other place. Again, it wouldn't POST, I reset the CMOS and it ran again.

That went OK for a few weeks, sometimes it needed to reset the CMOS.

But now he moved it again and it wouldn't POST again and nothing worked. The PSU works(not tested on high loads thought), CPU works.

I removed everything and just tested it without case with just the CPU and RAM. It gave 5 short beeps(missing GPU).

Then I added a GPU and it booted. I tested it 5 times and everytime it booted.

Then I put it everything back into the case and it didn't (again). I put the GPU in another PCIe slot and that worked. The other slot didn't, no beeps thought.

So one of the two PCIe 2.0 slots was broken... I think. Then I booted it and the resolution was strange, Windows didn't recognize the GPU. I tried installing the drivers again, but that failed.

Is the GPU or MB broken?

I can test the GPU easially, I can plug it into another PC or I can put another GPU in it to see if it works. I think I'm going to do that, but not know.

Here are the specs:

FX 8350

ASRock Extreme3 970 R2.0

Asus GT 640

Sharkoon WPM400 Bronze

ADATA 8 GB DDR3-1600

[segaprophet]

And really, you don't at all need an aftermarket CPU cooler. If you're happy to increase the cost of the build then go for it, but if budget's an issue that's the first thing I'd drop.

But they look so radicool!

[Amihan]

CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($179.47 @ OutletPC)

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)

Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 2GB Dual-X Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)

Case: BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case ($33.99 @ NCIX US)

Power Supply: Antec 450W ATX Power Supply ($33.98 @ Directron)

Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ OutletPC)

Total: $623.27

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-22 14:06 EST-0500

The price is real right now, but whatever I have time. Tossed in an i5 and a more expensive motherboard, got cheaper stuff for some other things. Assuming the cooler gets attached to the CPU, I can just save up for one later and upgrade both at the same time if I change my mind. I might actually drop the disk drive entirely and try to salvage one from an older PC, if I can.

This is really a big help, thanks!

[DuoDex]

Cut down on the mobo cost by getting a H97 chipset. The only functional difference between Z97 and H97 is it allows overclocking, and the 4460 doesn't support OC.

Also, I recommend the Seagate Barracuda storage. It's the same amount of storage and RPM for a much, much lower price. You might be able to make an upgrade to your GPU based on the difference.

[segaprophet]

Cut down on the mobo cost by getting a H97 chipset. The only functional difference between Z97 and H97 is it allows overclocking, and the 4460 doesn't support OC.

I agree, this one is good - GIGABYTE GA-H97-D3H LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard, $94.99 @Newegg.

This one is nearly identical, except for the red "gamer" look, but it's more expensive - GIGABYTE G1.Sniper H6 LGA 1150 Intel H97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard, $109.99 @Newegg.

[joppiesaus]

Well, it turns out the motherboard is dead.

Any mb recommendations for a FX 8350?

It shouldn't be too expensive, overclocking is not intended and SLI/CrossFire isn't too(but it's a nice touch).

[briansun1]

Cut down on the mobo cost by getting a H97 chipset. The only functional difference between Z97 and H97 is it allows overclocking, and the 4460 doesn't support OC.

Also, I recommend the Seagate Barracuda storage. It's the same amount of storage and RPM for a much, much lower price. You might be able to make an upgrade to your GPU based on the difference.

I'd also think about getting a slightly better PSU.

[Elthy]

No, 450W are more than enough for this system, there is even room for OC or a GPU Upgrade.

[briansun1]

No, 450W are more than enough for this system, there is even room for OC or a GPU Upgrade.

As in better quality.

[segaprophet]

As in better quality.

To be fair, Antec is fairly decent by virtue of being a large volume PSU OEM, despite being no-frills and not 80 Plus - you could do a lot worse (I've seen teardowns of some super-cheap Chinese PSUs and the build quality can be dangerously poor).

It is a good rule of thumb to stick with 80 Plus PSUs however, Seasonic makes an 80 Plus Gold 450W which is $64.99 on Newegg - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151127

Any experienced system builder will tell you that the PSU is not the place to try to save money - a dodgy PSU can fry your entire system.

Edited February 25, 2015 by segaprophet

[DuoDex]

Segaprophet's got the right end of the stick.

[Amihan]

I'd actually spent a decent portion of yesterday looking at PSU reviews, but apparently my Google-Fu could use some work. Thanks again! And yeah, further research suggests getting a better motherboard than you need is unwise so I've downgraded to the one I had in the first place.

Thanking everyone every time I post is probably getting old but I can't do it enough. I NEED THE HELP.

Possibly funny note? An old classmate of mine said I don't need a case or a power button and could just short the pins on the motherboard with a screwdriver. He sounds confident, but I think I'd rather spend the money

[DuoDex]

Yeah....naaah. You probably can, with a lot of tech experience, but I guarantee that will shorten your motherboard life. You're not really supposed to shortcircuit things in general.

[Red Iron Crown]

Friends don't let friends run caseless in anything but test bench conditions. Your case makes a Faraday cage that shields the PC from EMI.

[Thnd3r]

I've totally shorted the pins to test my rig before I put it in the case. It works just fine and shouldn't shorten the life of your motherboard unless of course you short the wrong pins.... On the plus side it's only 5V nowadays. Back when AT style cases were around you were looking at a hell of a lot more than that, and it would have been a tad scarier.

[Camacha]

Yeah....naaah. You probably can, with a lot of tech experience, but I guarantee that will shorten your motherboard life. You're not really supposed to shortcircuit things in general.

You do realize that 'shorting' the pins on a motherboard is actually how every computer turns on? It is exactly how a button does it, except that you use something conductive as a stand in.

Friends don't let friends run caseless in anything but test bench conditions. Your case makes a Faraday cage that shields the PC from EMI.

If you are careful you should be fine, but the margin of error becomes pretty slim. A curious pet, some rogue drops of anything or even touching a part at the wrong time can and will wreak havoc on a system.

[MC.STEEL]

PC:

processor- intel core2duo E6750 2.60 Ghz

motherboard- AsRock ConRoe 1333-ESATA2

PSU- Codegen 400W

current videocard- Nvidia Geforce 7300

So I recently bought a new graphics card because my old one got fried and have to run on the backup Nvidia 7300(runs just fine with the backup and the late Geforce 8500 GT).However i just cant get the thing to accept the new one.I took the card back to the shop to check if it was dead but it ran fine in the shop.At home I tried all sorts of stuff:reseting BIOS, updating drivers tried on both of the PCIe slots(Yes i did plug in the auxiliary power cable) but to no avail.

When i turn on the pc it gives out 5 beeps in a row,and from my time of using it i know that that is its signal that it cant find a video card(I am not entirely sure that is correct).

I also tried it on a trendsonic 450W to see if the PSU is the problem,still doesent boot.

I personally think it is the motherboard it gave such problems in the past and even got zapped by lightning once,fried its built in lancard so i have to use an external one.

[DuoDex]

PC:

processor- intel core2duo E6750 2.60 Ghz

motherboard- AsRock ConRoe 1333-ESATA2

PSU- Codegen 400W

current videocard- Nvidia Geforce 7300

So I recently bought a new graphics card because my old one got fried and have to run on the backup Nvidia 7300(runs just fine with the backup and the late Geforce 8500 GT).However i just cant get the thing to accept the new one.I took the card back to the shop to check if it was dead but it ran fine in the shop.At home I tried all sorts of stuff:reseting BIOS, updating drivers tried on both of the PCIe slots(Yes i did plug in the auxiliary power cable) but to no avail.

When i turn on the pc it gives out 5 beeps in a row,and from my time of using it i know that that is its signal that it cant find a video card(I am not entirely sure that is correct).

I also tried it on a trendsonic 450W to see if the PSU is the problem,still doesent boot.

I personally think it is the motherboard it gave such problems in the past and even got zapped by lightning once,fried its built in lancard so i have to use an external one.

Merged with the PC building megathread.

[Camacha]

Wow. I installed Windows 7 on a secondary hard drive for some testing and in case of emergencies, and what a difference. I really had not expected it to feel so outdated already. Do not get me wrong, it is still pretty decent and fine if you just want to do some production, but there are so many small and large tweaks I miss that it really feels like a step back.

It is funny, in my experience the step forward to Windows 8 was not all that big, but apparently getting used to all the weird and wonderful new features kind of tarnished that experience.

[Adslegend]

I'm planning on building a PC in the summer (Stuck with a laptop ATM)

Any thoughts/ comments on this setup?

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard

Memory: *Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: *Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: *PowerColor Radeon R9 290 4GB PCS+ Video Card

Case: Cooler Master K280 ATX Mid Tower Case

Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer

Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card

Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter

[Red Iron Crown]

I'm planning on building a PC in the summer (Stuck with a laptop ATM)

Any thoughts/ comments on this setup?

*snip*

That looks like an awesome system. I'd offer the following advice:

- Get a motherboard with the Z97 chipset for easier overclocking of that K-series chip. If you're not interested in overclocking get a cheaper non-K processor (which will have more features, too). You can probably get a board with onboard wifi so you don't need a separate card. I would also consider an aftermarket CPU cooler if planning to overclock, good air coolers can be had for about $30.

- Discrete sound cards are unnecessary in 90%+ of cases, unless you have a very specific need for it you're likely paying for something you won't notice compared to onboard sound.

- In the price bracket in which you're shopping you should really consider getting an SSD for OS/programs, either instead of or in addition to the conventional drive. Few upgrades make a computer seem snappier than an SSD. I built a machine a couple of months ago on a much smaller budget and was able to work a 256GB SSD into it, worth every penny.

The other thing is that summer is months away, the landscape may change significantly in that time.

[cantab]

- Get a motherboard with the Z97 chipset for easier overclocking of that K-series chip. If you're not interested in overclocking get a cheaper non-K processor (which will have more features, too).

The 4790K is an unusual case - it's stock speed is already considerably faster than the 4790 (non-K). So there's a good case for using the 4790K in a high-end non-overclocked system.

[Red Iron Crown]

The 4790K is an unusual case - it's stock speed is already considerably faster than the 4790 (non-K). So there's a good case for using the 4790K in a high-end non-overclocked system.

So it is, that's a good point. I wonder why Intel diverged from their usual "K processors are the same but with unlocked multipliers and fewer features" product differentiation? Either way, thanks for the correction.