T.A.P.O.R.

I like the way they look, but am not sure of the usefulness really. Last week I chanced a bid on a bunch of old VU's, it turns out I've won. I was really only interested in one of them (guess which one). I still haven't managed to get the OLED to do anything. Its missing the CS pin and is not the common four pin display I see elsewhere. This is making it hard to find a decent tutorial. The OLED isn't integral to my plan, so I'm not fussed at this point.

I don't mind, it was cheap yellow/blue There is one rgb OLED that I found that is about $50aud (way overpriced IMO) and a teensie bit bigger than the ones we have. "Active display area 28.8 x 26.8 mm, (1.5 inch diagonal) "

Yeah I guess....The dining room is also my office and the workshoppe is kinda crummy, but I built it myself (so I can only blame one person for the crumminess). OLED Specs: SPI Interface Driver IC: SSD1306Pin Definitions: VCC:3.3-5V GND: grounding CLK: clock module MOSI: Data input Cs: Chip select signal D/C: Command / data change Here's some perspective that I was missing from your OLED pic, though I guess the USB plug should have been a bit of a giveaway. I had thought it would be about the size of the Nokia 5110 display below. Thanks for your explanation of your OLED code by the way, I didn't understand a word of it, but I tried reading before my morning coffee.

Ok, looks like the VU maxes out at 0.8v I fixed the weird cycling issue by changing my code and added 11k of resistance in series. { analogWrite(VUAPIN, round(VData.LiquidFuelS/VData.LiquidFuelTotS*250)); analogWrite(VUBPIN, round(VData.LiquidFuel/VData.LiquidFuelTot*250)); } Now I'm getting a weird staging bug when I engage SAS, but it only happens for the first stage. Nope, nothing wrong with the code, but possibly my eyesight. My stage button is set to 10, but I'd plugged it into 13! This somehow (I don't have the foggiest) enabled SAS to stage. Now for a shaky test video!

Yep, just powering off the usb at the moment. I've got a regulator kit (1.5-12v)in my workshop(I ARDUINO in the dining room/office), so I'll try that when I get home. I will also post another gif showing the weirdness, for posterity. In other news my oled arrived, it's so small! I laughed when I pulled it out of the bag, as it's about twice the with of my thumbnail.

LCD Works, Analogue VU kinda works... I have 10k reistor in series. I've placed this: analogWrite(VUAPIN, round(VData.LiquidFuelS*255/100)); in "Void Indicators" and it appears to sit at roughly the right value. But as I burn, it goes to zero fairly quickly then springs to the dial maximum and repeats down to zero until the fuel is depleted. Is this just a case of needing a higher value resistor, or am I missing something? I don't know the spec of my VU's as they're out of an old machine and have no markings that are of any use.

The mega has arrived! too bad I have to wait all day before I can go home and play. I shall checkout that store as I've not used it before. Thanks for the tip! ** Transplanted pins from the UNO to the Mega and uploaded the same sketch. It works perfectly. I'll need to reassign the pins in order to free up the PWM functions for my VU's But as far as LCDs, LEDs & switches go, I'm all set and don't need to mess about with hard stuff like shift registers for the time being. That brings me to another piont. Do I need all the Action Groups on the board, when I can do them all on my flight stick? I think yes.

Oh I'm not going to delete it. I intend to smash it with a sattelite made of panels in a pancake formation.

H marzubus, I have two, one was off the shelf at a local electronics supplier and another made by Optrex that was in my box of junk. They both have the same pin designations. I've tried this example and others that are similar, but all I get are a series of rectangles on the LCD. No matter, Ihave a 4 x 20 screen coming with an i2c adapter to minimise the amount of pins required, and my Mega should be here tomorrow, so I'll have pins galore

The only way I can see to make this right, is to launch a satellite in the correct direction and wiping out the one that "completed" the contract under false conditions.

Armed with the knowledge gained in this thread, I returned to satellite contracts. Also I accidentally broke the bank when upgrading the launch pad. I'm still not great at launching into the desired plane from the launch pad, so I've overbuilt my ships to allow for that. To quote Neal Stephenson "plane changes are expensive".

Well I've played some more and I'm not getting any exploration contracts :'(

I'd seen the dots, but I never knew what they were for. I'm not a total noob, but have just been ignoring the orbit contracts for more fun stuff.

Dang it! That must have been it. I don't remember direction being specified in the contract. Oh well, better luck next time. Thanks Gang!

I accepted a contract for a polar orbit and matched up perfectly with the designated position. Nothing would trigger the complete condition, I even tried editing the persistent file to increase the allowed tolerance, but that didn't work. Mechjeb did a worse job than I did flying manually! I've now sullied my save game by using cheat console to compete the contract. Is this a bug, or are the tolerance requirements that ridiculous?

What kind of switch are you using for staging? I'm using a momentary normally closed and am not experiencing random auto stages. I did experience unwanted staging when I was just testing with a toggle switch and wasn't fast enough to switch it off again.

In had a hunt about on the internet for a round VU with removable innards, but didn't have any luck either. What I did find was a pair of 20 segment 3 coloured led bar graphs. These will come in handing for one thing or another. I've managed to get LEDs to go on my shift register, but getting an LCD to work? Nope. I've tried heaps of options, even went back to the regular way of driving an LCD to make sure I hadn't broken anything and it was fine, something I'm doing wrong :'(

Oh no, I did a very good job of messing up the PCB. I've got a stack of old keyboards, but then I found Arduino for cheap on the wide wide world of web Thanks Mazubus, If only you could see it in meat space, it's not very impressive. Even if it does have a strut made from MDF & melted plastic The analogue gauges came to me in a box of junk (stuff for recycling) from a guy who runs a synth building club. There are two transparent panels in the middle of the two VU's that make me think it might have been pulled from an old tape deck, or maybe reel to reel. From the looks of the light mount behind them, it predates LED's. There are no markings as to what it was actually a part of though. I don't know the voltages, but I think they're about 3v as a couple of AA's can max them out. They can be easily opened and the backing cards can be replaced (just tried this now), in fact they were held together by sticky tape & the pressure of the screws holding them to the old panel. There's a hipster 2nd hand dealer on the other side of town that has awesome vintage test & radio gear, but its really expensive. Oh how I would like to have them as part of my KSP rig! **corrected typo

And remember, don't do what I did and tear the trace off the board in the process of learning the pinouts:( Not a big deal really, but Arduino is a fair bit easier than the board I tried. The guts were just two pieces of plastic with circuits printed on them.

Hi Gmack85, You can get a simple simpit going for under $20 and with no soldering. I did my first altimeter with an Arduino Leonardo & a 1602 LCD Shield, simply plug in the shield to the Arduino, and the Arduino to your compute. Then add a little code to Zitronen's Sketch & you're in business [B]//This goes at the top of tab one [/B]#include <LiquidCrystal.h> LiquidCrystal lcd(8, 9, 4, 5, 6, 7); [B]//This goes down the bottom of tab one [/B]void setup(){ Serial.begin(38400); // initLEDS(); // InitTxPackets(); // controlsInit(); // LEDSAllOff(); // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows: lcd.begin(16, 2); // Print a message to the LCD. lcd.setCursor(0,0); lcd.print("GForce "); lcd.setCursor(0,1); lcd.print("RAlt "); } void loop() { input(); output(); lcd.setCursor(8,0); lcd.print(VData.G); lcd.setCursor(6,1); lcd.print(VData.RAlt); }

Good Morning Marzubus, I now see that I have fundamentally misunderstood something you said re: running the KSPIO plugin & displays on separate boards. So, is it something like using a shift register, but with extra processing power & memory, rather than just pin outs? While I don't feel that my project is really needing more than one board, I do find the idea intriguing

Howdy Marzubus, How do you get KSPIO working with multiple Arduinos? Is it as simple as messing with the config XML?

Thanks Stibbons, I couldn't in good conscience chop up the Atari (I don't even know if it works). This proto-panel is the result of no planning whatsoever. When I bought the big red button, I didn't realise that the switching mechanism would protrude quite so far out the back. Hence the unused space toward the front. Another thing that I hadn't anticipated was the toggle switch covers make it harder to see the switch position. On my next Proto, I'll probably split it into two parts: a horizontal control board to sit behind the keyboard & under the monitor a vertical display board to sit adjacent to the monitor, for a more heads-up approach.

Small update, I've expanded my prototype with VU's from some old audio console & a non-backlit LCD (and lots of hot glue). Neither are connected at the moment as I've run out of pins on the arduino & am trying to get my head around shift registers. I've ordered a mega2650 (just in case I can't figure out shift registers) and some different displays.

I had considered this too, but the Mun is big and obvious in the sky. The contract, I want it!