Zaeo

I've got a suggestion... To create more "White space" on the app screen and make it more *small device* friendly, replace the "throttle up/down" buttons with a slider, similar to a throttle control in aircraft, or even like a volume control on old audio boxes. The idea is neat, and could pave the way for a "touchscreen gamepad" that interfaces with PC over Bluetooth, USB, or even Wi-Fi. Good luck and Go Crazy! Edit: Don't forget the "Abort!!!" button

I have a idea...a Wonderful Idea... instead of this craziness known as launchpads, we have a Rover Hanger...Basically, you can launch ships from it, but anything that flies...well, not recommended to attempt flight. It would be a box, or a dome, or a WE you want it to be, with walls and a ceiling, with a gap to let rovers off the "Pad". I think an Aircraft hanger or even the bunkers on the island runway would be a start for inspiration. Why, you might ask, would you want such a thing? Simple...Variety!

Edited: Interstage Fairings vote +1. Now...Another interesting thought, Procedural struts within the fairing...Wobbly tops ftl! Can't wait to see what you do!

Darren...What mod is that vert speed and rad alt? I am Highly interested!

...Where was this all my life?

Any chance of adding axis lock to scaling? Aka, Shift-R to scale on X Axis, Alt-R to scale on Y Axis, and Ctrl-R for Z axis?*this would apply to T as well, but g should be fine as is.* This would allow for extremely unique wing designs. For example, a Wider wing with a low thickness. I love the texture work on Bac9's wing, but it is far too thick*.25 meteres to thick!!* for the mk2 standard. Your plugin *sort of* fixes this, but due to reduced surface area from scaling, I cant get enough to get a realistic looking wing to actually lift something without adding front and rear assistance fins+gimbaling engines. When it does lift, it does not perform well, fliping out of control. center of lift is ~ .3 meters behind center of mass*center of thrust pushes lift closer to mass* anything built with stock wings in the same method works flawlessly every time, the only thing that changed is the wings.

Ok, so basically, What I have read here: Strut up ASAS bad! and powered decent. hrrm... great, gotta add "fugly clutter" on the sides of my ship

With the release of .20, comes my "Finally" attempt to make a space program where no one dies. Aircraft and airless bodies are mastered, however, every time i try to save*intact* ships via parachutes, the velocity is ~80 m/s when chute deploys, effectively ripping the command pod from the rest of the ship, or destroying the command pod in attempt to save the whole ship*by pushing it under the center of mass* I am trying to *completely unpowered* land the entire craft unscathed on kerbin as a test, and later all atmospheric bodies. I have tried drogue chutes, and experimented with 20+ designs, all of which are put through their paces. I'm not trying to land a 600 ton behemouth, I'm trying to land a simple 18-30 part command module without using any fuel, weight MAYBE 7 tons fully fueled. I'm using 4 radial parachutes, is that too much for 7 tons?

Gimp's .XCF has layer support. it is a Free alternative to PSD files, though it still requires the end user to install Gimp to edit. Why not just release the whole texture file format for people to change? It would remain a .png, leaving everyone with the ability to change it how they please, and possibly even increase its resolution.

I understand as to why you chose to use PSD files, but a lot of people can't open them. Have you tried Gimp's XCF format?

Check it out. I can't view it in full screen and keep it in 3d, but its neat. <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HM-x1OnwMw4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

hm... I might take a...CRACK at it...

Fiddle, use Gimp. After that, paint something in a SEPARATE file from your uv map, namely "gold_foil_01.png" would be a good organizational name. this is so you can come back to it for newer parts. make the full texture 1024x1024, allllways use a larger texture and crop what you don't need. Following that, make an off yellow/orangish flat color. under filter->artistic select clothify. Play with the slider a bit. Filter->Blur->Gaussian blur:1 1 After that, duplicate the layer via right click. Apply a "burn effect" it should crisp your color to goldish. Following that, use filter->Light and Shadows and have fun. thast should get you a "close to foil" texture like they use. be sure to check "bumpmap" pull your new texture into the uv map component area. attempt "Make seamless" but this method is not the best. avoid it if you can.

Well, glad you found a solution. If you are buying a new graphics card, save up an extra $150 and go with a GTX 670 if you can afford to. In my opinion, the X5X series of nvidia isn't worth the money, when for just a bit more money gets you a lot more power. but looking at a budget card that IS worth it... AMD 7850. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125451 It has a LOT more power than the 650 for ~ the same price. The OOOOONNNLLLLLLYYYYY downside is no integrated physx. Of course, you can always disregard this and go with what you want, I'm just trying to get you the best for your money. PS, you need at least a 500 watt Power supply to handle the above cards with headroom and "age room"*power supplies get shotty over time*

By the way, 960 faces is perfectly fine. count my uv map there, should be around 1030 or so, and thats an rcs sized object

Did you UV unwrap it? If you unwrap your part to show its faces on a 2d surface, then stack the symmetric pieces*the ones that have the same texture anyways* you can really simplify the texturing process. Heres an example of what NOT to do. See all the similar sections? you can drag the pieces over eachother in the uv map editor, from then, texturing without annoying seams is a LOTTTTT easier. Not only that, but you can also expand the faces when there is room in the square:the whitespace outside of the shapes This allows for higher resolution textures in a much smaller texture area*same performance hit, increased detail.*

Well, as I've said before, if you want to verify 100% it isn't hardware related, first run Prime95. If it begins to heat your processor up in speedfan*I recommend HWMon because it lets you see ALL of your temperatures, and voltages that are accurate to a degree^only a voltage meter will get 100% accurate readings* to dangerous levels, then that is your problem. However, for a more "overall test" download and run either http://www.futuremark.com/benchmarks/3dmark/all Any one of these work, but 3d mark 11 will have your pc crying trying to render, thus the best stress test. They are free or http://unigine.com/products/heaven/ for a focus on graphics cards. All of those have a "score" they give you of your overall performance, as well as break down your individual component speed. Under heavy stresses, faults rear their ugly heads. If its software related, try to use Advanced System Care free, run a full scan and fix*it creates a backup if it breaks something, you can revert back* or even CCleaner specific to registry errors. Again, Backups are created, so you need not worry of borking it. Let me know how it works out for ya.

I am unfamiliar with 3DS personally, but in unity, try clearing the "main camera" then adding an empty game object. Drag your asset model into the game object so that it is tabbed over from the "GameObject" and below it. from there, apply the mesh collider to the Model file. Any Thrust transform or other "transform values" must be within that main GameObject, I personally keep the gameobject at top, followed by the model, followed by the light*If applicable* Followed by any Transforms. This is all under the Game Object in the SAME tabbing level as the Model. I'll show you some screenshots if you need a visual reference.

Re-install does not mean install another version. It means "uninstall it" then "re-install it" It has something called Registry values, and when uninstalling and re-installing it means that you clear *Most* of them out. Clearing all of them is impossible unless you know what to look for in your registry, then delete them, or to reformat your pc, setting the values to "be overwritten". I HIGHLY recommend staying out of your registry though. Screw up here, and you can force a necessary reformat. I wasn't giving you pc advice, I was trying to diagnose if it was a overheating issue, or something more serious, like possibly a "ram access issue" or "Power supply issue" If its running poorly for one program, and one program only, that means either that program is overstressing your pc, causing a overheat, OR could be experiencing errors on your current access of memory. You don't see people complain about poor performance on unity 4 very often, and when they do, its due to overheating, power issues, or memory issues. So before you so rudely act as if you know it all, and then blame it on the program, then take it out on the guy trying to help you with your problem, consider everything that person says. Then Get a second opinion if you don't trust said person. I apologize as coming off as a jerk, I just wanted all of the facts laid out, make a little side conversation to try and lower your stress levels from dealing with crummy speeds by making you excited to hear of your pc's capabilities. I will get straight to the point in all future "help threads" :/ Good luck on solving your problem.

As it is sandy bridge, and merely running 3.7 ghz. it is rather slow for water cooled. In fact, turbo boost clocks up to that by default. For example, My I5 2500k is sitting at 4.8 GHZ on air, with temps at load around 72C*which is safe. 80+ range will start to be bad.* A Big benchmark is Intel Burn test or Prime 95, but be warned, it CAN kill your processor if your cooling isn't up to snuff. Those two benchmarks are for testing stability of an overclock. My processor tops off at 87C on intel burn test, but is stable. Average load is fine. Prime 95 tests your processor's ability to calculate large algorithms while at the same time pushing its temperature further with higher and higher memory buffers. BTW, if your pc is ONLY using water and a radiator, and no fans, there is a problem with that as well, as the radiator can't disperse heat very fast. Works great until it heats up, then gets worse and worse, until it performs less than air equivalents. using canned air to get the dust out of that will do wonders. That being said, temperature does not seem to be the issue. One final note, 300 fps is technically impossible for your monitor to display. FPS limits are directly linked to your monitor's refresh rates. Most monitors nowadays are at 60, while more expensive monitors reach 120 Hz. When Vsync is off, that limit is "emulated" by the video card. you will never physically SEE it go higher than your monitors refresh rate. Try to re-install unity, maybe it is corrupted in some way. That is the next cheapest step By the way, I take NO responsibility for damaged or destroyed components if you use the aforementioned programs. If your temperatures reach over 80c, stop the test immediately, and let it cool down, but prime 95 will give you a real idea on your processor's heat and stability. Minecraft can only do so much for what it uses. It isn't multi-threaded, so its 57c on ONE processor core. FINALLY!!! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OVERCLOCK YOUR PROCESSOR TO 4.8 GHZ LIKE MINE!!!!!!!!!! 9/10 it can't handle it, and will go "Pop." I have the bios settings heavily tuned with a VERY good*and expensive* cooling setup. Every chip is different in its limits, mine happened to be higher than most.

First, you want to pick a style. Once a style is in mind, go wild. I make 4-6 revisions to each model before I release mine. *Technically, none of it is released.* from there, its completely trial and error. Modeling is an Art, and there are almost infinite ways to achieve a final product. As for figuring out what everything in blender does, THAT is where we can help you. For example, loopcut and slide is my favorite tool for symmetry edits. I also prefer working with a full model rather than a half and then mirroring it, personal preference. Anyways, good luck! Can't wait to see what you make!!

If its CPU throttling, it can usually be attributed to overheating. Your processor, based on my inference, is either an I5 2500k with turbo boost on, 2550k, or the ivy bridge equivalent. I could be wrong, but that's my best guess. Use HWMon to monitor temps, if the they are reaching over 75C, in the 82-90 range, that is your problem. To fix this, you first try using canned air and blowing the heatsinks clean of dust to improve airflow, the same with any air filters and fans. If you are using liquid cooling, Check for any bubbles in the line, it could cause some issues. If that fails, check to make sure all of your fans are spinning, hardware dies with age :/ If even that fails, and you are indeed experiencing temps in the 80+ range, and if you know how, Remount your CPU heatsink with new thermal paste. I recommend http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186020, but any thermal compound works fine for the average user. When did you buy your pc? If it isn't temperature, HWmon gives other data that I can use to help pinpoint the problem. We will start with Temperature because it is the cheapest fix.

Hrrm... How about an "inverted" version of the \__/, for example, /__\ TECHNICALLY that design is worse, but where it loses out in suspension, it gains in traction...or whatever it is you call "sticking to" in kerbal. As it stands with it's current suspension setting, you can't freely flip the first textured design. That being said, I can't wait to see what you do with this!

Well, you seem to have encountered the "inverted faces" issue. you need to duplicate the treads, then flip normals, And then recalculate after selecting whole tread, That "SHOULD" solve that odd texture thing going on in the test vid. having "double faces" for the treads may be bad for optimization, but this could allow you to have a "belt" look rather than a "piece of paper with ridges"

Impacts from asteroids that have a different magnetic property than that of earth leave "anomoly" scars on the planet. For example, an asteroid that impacted earth may have brushed against jupiter, propeling it into us, but that brush with jupiter set its magnetic orientation to be different from earth's. Also, not all asteroids are hunks of metal. Some are clumps of rock and dust, and even ice, though ice asteroids are rare. Comets and ice asteroids are two different things btw.