Rareden

Depends on what your trying to image, the moon yes it would work but you wouldnt need to stack them, rather you could record a video and use something like "planetary image processor" to get a reasonable image If your trying to image a nebula or other deep sky object, it would be rather pointless depending on what the max shutter speed it has by default.

Thats surprisingly good for 600mm, got a 600mm lens for my dslr didnt think i would be able to get much of a view of it but ill give it a go given those results

Very nice! what scope you using?

absolutely, just didn't want to be that guy

i knew it was coming...

Bottom is looking very nice. Finaly seemed to have fixed my differential flexure issues with my setup, exposures before and after, 2 min before, 12min after. noise issue of course because i did no processing on them

also hold it with the sensor facing the ground when doing so, if its a dslr check if it has a sensor cleaning feature and cycle that a few times with it facing the ground with no lens

Some great work coming out here.

not terribly, you can do pretty well with decent software like pixinsight or a fake flat in photoshop

for some reason, nothing saved to the card

theres a good reason newzealands called the land of the long white cloud...

siiigh, wish the weather was that good here.

Iso matters greatly, its the sensors sensitivity to light, the higher the iso the more sensitive it will be to faint light, BUT it will also become more sensitive to the electrical noise and temperature of the sensors pixels which will cause it to produce "Fake signal" which is noise, makes your image look grainy with red blue and green spots. There is a fine balance with iso, depending on what camera you have, typically iso 800 is a good spot, good cameras designed for low light you can do 1600-3000

hmm, your alignment may be slightly off, should be able to get more than 1min

whats your focal length?