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Posts posted by Rareden
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7 hours ago, dundun92 said:
Meade 90mm f8.8 refractor, webcam was modified Logitech C310.
Thats surprisingly good for 600mm, got a 600mm lens for my dslr didnt think i would be able to get much of a view of it but ill give it a go given those results
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4 hours ago, dundun92 said:
Shot of Jupiter(no barlow, unlike the Saturn photos)
{snip}
uncropped:
Very nice! what scope you using?
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Just now, MaxPeck said:
You know you were thinking it.
absolutely, just didn't want to be that guy
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10 minutes ago, MaxPeck said:
<snicker>
i knew it was coming...
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1 hour ago, _Augustus_ said:
It's far from perfect but at least I have the full thing now. Reprocessed video from the 26th.
Bottom is looking very nice.
Finaly seemed to have fixed my differential flexure issues with my setup, exposures before and after, 2 min before, 12min after. noise issue of course because i did no processing on them -
On 12/29/2017 at 3:29 PM, _Augustus_ said:
Try using a bulb blower on it to remove the dust from the chip.
also hold it with the sensor facing the ground when doing so,
if its a dslr check if it has a sensor cleaning feature and cycle that a few times with it facing the ground with no lens -
Some great work coming out here.
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54 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
Are flat frames necessary for dso's?
not terribly, you can do pretty well with decent software like pixinsight or a fake flat in photoshop
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7 hours ago, kurja said:
What problem did you have? I've seen batteries last for a lot less in arctic weather, and had a laptop crash unless heated, but all of my cameras have worked without a hiccup down to around -30 celsius.
for some reason, nothing saved to the card
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12 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
0 degrees here with clear sky's.
i wish you clear sky's:)
theres a good reason newzealands called the land of the long white cloud...
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4 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
Starting to image. i expect about 2 hours total tonight. plan on going out tomorrow and saturday.
siiigh, wish the weather was that good here.
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20 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
Going out again. Will try to do a more precise alignment and try again.
Does ISO really matter?
Iso matters greatly, its the sensors sensitivity to light, the higher the iso the more sensitive it will be to faint light, BUT it will also become more sensitive to the electrical noise and temperature of the sensors pixels which will cause it to produce "Fake signal" which is noise, makes your image look grainy with red blue and green spots.
There is a fine balance with iso, depending on what camera you have, typically iso 800 is a good spot, good cameras designed for low light you can do 1600-3000 -
Just now, munlander1 said:
1000mm focal length
254mm aperture
hmm, your alignment may be slightly off, should be able to get more than 1min
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29 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
M42 looking great.
seeing how long of an exposure I can get away with
Overexposing the area around trapezium.
iso 200
exopusure 60 seconds. Can't go higher without tracking errors.
whats your focal length?
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add alcohol
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1 minute ago, munlander1 said:
Fahrenheit?!
Celsius
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44 minutes ago, munlander1 said:
Getting to 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius). Going to be putting on everything I own.
neeeeeehh you'll live, been out in -16 doing astro, camera did not like it
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39 minutes ago, Green Baron said:
Andromeda ca. 3.5*1,5°, m42 ca. 1.5*1.5°, together with the upper and lower stars of the sword maybe the same size as Andromeda galaxy ... +/- window cross.
This might be a good opportunity to calculate your field of view from chip size and focal length ;-)
And you need a tracking mount for that thing !
i do, i have a AVX and guider with scope
FOV at 600 should be 3.4 horizontal, 2.3vertical -
any requirements on the focal length, i mainly use a 600mm DSLR lens, i do have a 2000mm scope though
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1 minute ago, munlander1 said:
Ok, so earlier around June this year, we were plannning to do a group astrophoto. Everyone would submit all their frames and they would all be processed together.
I kind of glazed it over though.
But I was thinking M42 would make a great target for it.
sounds good, im currently imaging it
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2 hours ago, munlander1 said:
Great idea for he group project,
messier 42. Super bright and not a terrible size.
not entirely sure what you mean?
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On 10/22/2017 at 6:27 AM, Pand5461 said:
Right, ε is the only term that can change the sign. But the specific energy is not supposed to do that near circularization.
@Rareden are you sure you use ε= v2/2 - μ/r in your calculations?
one i was using for mechanical energy is - mu / 2 * SMA
edit: went back to OP equation, made some changes and it works properly now TY all
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switched to this equation,
however the problem im encountering with this is that once the orbit starts to circularize and AP Peri switch, e becomes a negative value which kills the equation since you cant square root a negative. -
4 minutes ago, Zeiss Ikon said:
If you have a single well-defined position and velocity, and know the value and radius of the local gravitational field, you've got everything you need to calculate an orbit -- including finding the orbital elements. Astronomers usually need three observations to define an orbit, because they can't directly measure velocity, and get position only as a direction from the point of observation.
I can get absolute position in XYZ relative to planet center as well as players current velocity, strength of gravity at their distance.
got the equations in C++, just trying to work out the issues such as my periapsis being a negative value that wont go higher than 15km, and my Apoapsis continuing to climb despite ceasing acceleration
The Astro-Imaging Thread
in Science & Spaceflight
Posted
Depends on what your trying to image, the moon yes it would work but you wouldnt need to stack them, rather you could record a video and use something like "planetary image processor" to get a reasonable image
If your trying to image a nebula or other deep sky object, it would be rather pointless depending on what the max shutter speed it has by default.