totm june 2019 Custom hardware / simpit repository. For people who take KSP a little too far.

[stibbons]

1 hour ago, c4ooo said:

Not trying to be rude to the creater of the plugin, but to me adding more data to send seems trivial

There are a handful of reasons sending more data is non-trivial. But as somebody with half a dozen patches added to the plugin, I can attest to pull requests being graciously accepted.

[richfiles]

1 hour ago, c4ooo said:

Not trying to be rude to the creater of the plugin, but to me adding more data to send seems trivial (while writing the code to send data between the arduino and the game hard). If I figure out how to comile c# code I may give it a shot. (The plugin is open source after all )

The problem is the Arduino itself. People are accustomed to big modern computers with huge memories... We are sending a 256 byte packet (0-255), but that little tiny packet is ACTUALLY 1/4 the entire memory of an Arduino Pro Mini or 1/8 the memory of an Uno. The SRAM of most Arduinos is not that big! We're running out of room in the packet, AND you have to consider that everything in the packet needs to be divvied up and dealt with in your code, before the next packet can be dealt with. Simply doubling the packet would drop available memory significantly, and that memory also needs to be used for executing your code! More data sent means the Arduino has less time to sort out the packet. Even switching to a Mega, for example, while it solves the memory issue, doesn't change the fact that you need to now split up the packet's data into different tasks, and perform those before the next packet.

The Arduino is a very simple device, after all, when compared to the computer we run KSP on.

That's not even mentioning the issues we see with communications.

Minimally, if you want more data sent over... You need more horses under the hood, so to speak. You'll need a more powerful microcontrolelr than just an entry level Arduino, or you'll just give yourself nightmares. Consider things like the Due... something or other... The one with the much faster CPU. You'll need to work in 3.3 volt signals, so don't you be feeding it no 5 volts!   Same goes with a Teensy 3.1 or higher, a Raspberry Pi, etcetera.

Edited November 13, 2016 by richfiles

[Sputnix]

What @richfiles said;

 

Not sure of your background, so you may also like to see my overview of the in's and out's of processing / IO / instruction cycles here:

 

 

 

[Ragequit]

On 2016-11-11 at 3:42 AM, c4ooo said:

Well, that mod would definitely help me dock xD

It would seem kinda hard to recreate that alignment indicator on a physical panel though  Plus, the mod i am using doesn't send this sort of information. 

 

If you wouldn`t mind trying something new KRPC could help you with that. You would for an example need a Python script running in the background, but that also means you can do all the calculating on your computer and you only need to send the end result to your arduino. 

I am trying to do something similar myself, so if you need any help with the coding or anything just send me a message!

[JeffSergeant]

The

On ‎15‎/‎11‎/‎2016 at 0:09 AM, Ragequit said:

If you wouldn`t mind trying something new KRPC could help you with that. You would for an example need a Python script running in the background, but that also means you can do all the calculating on your computer and you only need to send the end result to your arduino.

For me, KRPC meant too many 'moving parts' and a rather fragile setup, fine for my own use but harder to roll out to people who aren't as comfortable with hacking things together.  

 There are up-sides, as always with a loosely coupled system; it means you can change any one part without changing all of the others.. but is higher maintenance as you have more interfaces to manage.

Edited November 17, 2016 by JeffSergeant

[c4ooo]

On 11/13/2016 at 1:25 AM, richfiles said:

The problem is the Arduino itself. People are accustomed to big modern computers with huge memories... We are sending a 256 byte packet (0-255), but that little tiny packet is ACTUALLY 1/4 the entire memory of an Arduino Pro Mini or 1/8 the memory of an Uno. The SRAM of most Arduinos is not that big! We're running out of room in the packet, AND you have to consider that everything in the packet needs to be divvied up and dealt with in your code, before the next packet can be dealt with.

Heh, i know this situation all too well from my experience programming graphing calculators >.< Never really bothered to check the amount of ram on an arduino though

 

More on topic though, could anyone suggest some joysticks? I am looking for two 1-axis and two 2-axis joysticks. (One pair for rotations and the other translation) I have done some searching, and i haven't found any 1 axis joysticks at all. 

Edited November 20, 2016 by c4ooo

[Sputnix]

9 hours ago, c4ooo said:

Heh, i know this situation all too well from my experience programming graphing calculators >.< Never really bothered to check the amount of ram on an arduino though

 

More on topic though, could anyone suggest some joysticks? I am looking for two 1-axis and two 2-axis joysticks. (One pair for rotations and the other translation) I have done some searching, and i haven't found any 1 axis joysticks at all. 

Yeah, 1 axis is hard to find;

I've gotten some of these with the intention of doing panel controls. And I still will (need to finish off v1! ). 

They are same style as these. My original plan was to somehow wedge / glue one axis so that it can only go in the remaining 'free' one. 

About the best one can do, I think! 

[richfiles]

11 hours ago, c4ooo said:

More on topic though, could anyone suggest some joysticks? I am looking for two 1-axis and two 2-axis joysticks. (One pair for rotations and the other translation) I have done some searching, and i haven't found any 1 axis joysticks at all. 

I salvaged a fader control from a video effects board. If you're looking for something similar, the keyword to be looking for is "t bar fader". Found one on ebay for $36.

It's also possible to make a T-Bar fader fairly simply. You just need to make a lever that you can mount and move easily, that attaches to a potentiometer. One style I've not seen recreated is a linear potentiometer based T-Bar fader. One of the issues is making the pivot able to both stand mechanical stress, but also attach to a potentiometer. Most people just mount the pivot of the meter to a potentiometer, and call it good. On option you could do is to have the pivot me more mechanically robust by bolting it between two secure structural parts (like a sandwich, with the lever in the middle). You could also have friction pads at the pivot, and adjust the tightness of the lever by tightening the bolt (use a bolt with a self locking nylon insert nut to make sure this assembly doesn't loosen or fall apart). Then, to make the business part of the assembly, you have a slot in the lever that fits the slider of a linear potentiometer through it (or you can use a connecting rod style connection, either way works)


I'd recommend some felt pads inside the groove, on either end, to keep the lever from "knocking" the end of the slot at the extremes of travel. You can have a pair of bolts on the bottom part of the frame to squeeze the pivot point, to adjust the tension of the lever.

Edited November 21, 2016 by richfiles

[Sputnix]

2 hours ago, richfiles said:

I salvaged a fader control from a video effects board. If you're looking for something similar, the keyword to be looking for is "t bar fader". Found one on ebay for $36.

It's also possible to make a T-Bar fader fairly simply. You just need to make a lever that you can mount and move easily, that attaches to a potentiometer.

Poor control board  Did you get the neat buttons too?

I'm actually planning something like this on my next build! Fantastic reference picture  Different to how I was thinking - but definitely better!  

[richfiles]

Yeah, I used the buttons for my DSKY keypad. I have TONS of buttons left.  I also salvaged some 4 digit dot matrix smart alphanumeric displays from it. The video effects board cost me a measly $10, plus shipping, and was useless anyway, as it was only the control interface to a much larger system, which wasn't present. The buttons all have an internal LED, which you can replace with any color you like. The small buttons, you insert the LED from the top of the switch and solder it below, and the large buttons actually have built in sockets to plug the LED into. All of them allow you to pop the cap off, so you can place a custom legend into the switch.

Most people who build DIY T-Bar controls do so by mounting the lever to a rotary potentiometer. The problem with this is if you don't do it right, you can cause a great deal of stress, and premature failure of the pot. The traditional method used in most manufactured ones is to actually use a pot at the pivot, but there will typically be a mechanical pivot or bearing that takes the load stress off the pot. The method I show makes a much easier to construct pivot, and results in a completely stressless interface to the potentiometer.

[Sputnix]

I saw a video desk / mixer go for dirt cheap a couple months back; totally wanted it to salvage it for parts like you - but was interstate, and completely unrealistic to try collect. It was freakin' huge too! Proper production mixer! 

19 hours ago, richfiles said:

Most people who build DIY T-Bar controls do so by mounting the lever to a rotary potentiometer. The problem with this is if you don't do it right, you can cause a great deal of stress, and premature failure of the pot. The traditional method used in most manufactured ones is to actually use a pot at the pivot, but there will typically be a mechanical pivot or bearing that takes the load stress off the pot. The method I show makes a much easier to construct pivot, and results in a completely stressless interface to the potentiometer.

Ahh, yeah - I think someone here was going to do similar. I agree; plus yours uses a linear pot. I have a few of those lying around  

[JeffSergeant]

Today I got an envelope of burnt-smelling plastic in the post, I've never been so excited!

Edited November 24, 2016 by JeffSergeant

[mountaineerman]

Hello Mulbin, I have a contribution to make! Here is my little album: http://imgur.com/a/GFKPg

Edited November 28, 2016 by mountaineerman
Corrected formatting

[c4ooo]

Started designing my panel

I am debating whether the prograde / retrograde etc buttons also double back to set to activate action groups (since there are ten sas modes and ten action groups).

Edited November 30, 2016 by c4ooo

[Sputnix]

8 hours ago, c4ooo said:

I am debating whether the prograde / retrograde etc buttons also double back to set to activate action groups (since there are ten sas modes and ten action groups).

If you want to be smart and efficient - it'd be a neat way to save space and i/o on the board

Simple switch would allow switching between... but you'd want to make sure you're in the right mode at that critical moment  Wouldn't want to accidentally do an 'action' (such as separate the CM from the rest of the vessel) when you really wanted to face retrograde  

[c4ooo]

@Sputnix how well do your PS2 joysticks work? Any issues with floating or anything? Can you gravity turn your crafts without control issues?

Edited November 30, 2016 by c4ooo

[Sputnix]

7 hours ago, c4ooo said:

@Sputnix how well do your PS2 joysticks work? Any issues with floating or anything? Can you gravity turn your crafts without control issues?

Believe it or not... they're next to me right now, as I'm thinking of connecting them up  My biggest challenge is doing it in a way that will allow me to mount them - and deal with the fact that I've put 8x big holes in the aluminium for control-group buttons I never connected.I might use the holes to some how mount the joysticks.  

@AmeliaEatyaheart and @stibbons have joysticks on their controllers. They might be able to share some insight into this.

AmeliaEatyaheart's | Stibbons

 

[stibbons]

I'm not using analogue sticks though, they're basic 8-way digital joysticks. They have a separate analogue pot to set the "intensity" of movement, but it's still a digital on/off. It's a pretty good mechanism for driving rovers, and things like docking and other fine maneuvers, but I use my full-size Logitech stick for everything else.

 

[c4ooo]

Ohh, i thought you had finished building the your panel Sputnix, sorry

" They have a separate analogue pot to set the "intensity" of movement, but it's still a digital on/off.", soo... like push buttons but in joystick format?

Edited December 1, 2016 by c4ooo

[Antipaten]

4 hours ago, c4ooo said:

Ohh, i thought you had finished building the your panel Sputnix, sorry

" They have a separate analogue pot to set the "intensity" of movement, but it's still a digital on/off.", soo... like push buttons but in joystick format?

The first thing you learn when you´re finished building your panel is that you´ll never be finished building your panel.

[Freshmeat]

I use a cheap analogue joystick (controller style) for RCS and a somewhat more (€20) expensive three-axis for attitude. The main perk of using joysticks in the controller is that I can switch between aero and rocket modes. The RCS joystick is not that sensitive, I do not think I would have lost anything making it digital. The attitude control, however, is wonderful when flying agile craft. I solve float by occasional resetting the values in code, as well as having a sufficient deadband. I think a really nice extension would be having three rotary pots for drift compensation, as well as trim when flying aeroplanes.

[Pvt. KASA]

Hello there!

 

Im Back after a long time... And I managed to do----NOTHING

Ok I worked on the "couch" for the Cockpit (I dont know how its called, just a tilted ejection-seat-ish chair) and thought about the layout and design...

I first wanted to build it like Apollo or Something like  this but now I think a mix of Apollo and the Martian would be awesome! Not too modern with MFDs but a bit more modern.

Im still stuck with the tapemeter and the artificial Horizion (did I even tell you I want to build one) because I´m never sure my plans wont change. I dont want to build it and the throw it away because I dont like it anymore and prefer a different style

FUN FACT:

Did you know the MAV is called MRV (Mars Return Vehicle) in the German version?

Do you know where I can get footage of the MAV interior of the Martian?

Bye

KASA

[Sputnix]

1 hour ago, Pvt. KASA said:

Do you know where I can get footage of the MAV interior of the Martian?

I take it you mean 'Hermes'? [I've not seen the movie yet - I know, shocking! -  so going off best-guess here.]

All I could find are these:

Link 1 | Link 2 | Link 3 | Then there's this Tumblr that has a few things.

Also there's "The Martian VR Experience" (on steam store, and other places) - which give you the opportunity to explore Mars + Vehicle + others in VR.

Google is your friend

Edited December 2, 2016 by Sputnix

[Pvt. KASA]

No, I meant the Vehicle which launches from Mars to bring the Astronauts from Mars to the Hermes.

I couldnt find anything there...

The third one by the way is the Rover.

But thanks for trying to help! You should really watch the Movie by the way.

KASA

[c4ooo]

Tips? Criticisms? 

Everything in white is where to cut mounting holes for switches, leds and other meters, and blue is space for text / other design elements. The 4 blue boxes in "rotation" and "translation" is where the joysticks will go.