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Cheaterman

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Everything posted by Cheaterman

  1. I found an intuitive explanation of the Oberth effect in a way anyone can experiment at home - especially these sunny days. Imagine someone in a hammock, slowly oscillating: if this person wants to keep oscillating, there are two ways he could give energy to his hammock. The first one is pushing his finger towards the ground when he's at the highest point of his trajectory. That makes him apply a prograde force at his lowest speed and is very inefficient - I tried it so I suggest you do as well. The second (and most efficient thanks to the Oberth effect) way is to push with his finger in a tengential direction when he's at the lowest point of his trajectory - and therefore at the highest speed. Again, I suggest you try this at home, but you're not fighting gravity in any way while doing that which makes your energy transfer more efficient. In orbit it's the same thing, except the performance gain is less impressive than with the hammock due to the fact you always end up fighting gravity at some point - as long as you're not doing a timed launch with a direct ejection. Please feel free to add your own intuitive experiments of the Oberth effect in everyday life!
  2. Trust me - human silliness may be infinite, you'll probably never be enough of an idiot to de-orbit a 200km high space station simply by docking into it a bit hard. At least you wouldn't de-orbit it before destroying both crafts or causing severe structural damage to your station. In case you really need it, it's quite easy to build smallish unmanned tugs consisting of only a NERVA and a medium 1m tank, with an antenna, some panels and two smallish RCS tanks.
  3. Exactly. The point of docking mode is to unify the commands (and to make it more real-life-like), if you don't like it you can actually dock in staging mode without any trouble.
  4. Waste & space ecology is a bigger deal in general so you'd want your periapsis to stay under 20km until your apokee matches destination orbit's apoapsis (which doesn't mean you'll burn only upwards), then get rid of the waste and circularize. This is pretty fuel efficient as well.
  5. Strap dat onto a launcher. A big, badass launcher. Preferably put craft file in your VAB folder first as SPH symmetry isn't very appropriate.
  6. Some people already mentioned that module manager apparently interferes badly with this mod. Just try removing deadly re-entry, remote tech compatibility pack or whatever can use module manager overrides.
  7. Google Drive limits downloads on a 24h basis and your plugin is definitely popular (that's the ransom for success as we say in my country). I'd love either a mirror either some proper hosting -ie, not Google*- to download and test your plugin! *You could put the binaries on Github. And the whole archive itself actually. I'm suggesting this since other people already do it -ie Ramon for MJ2-.
  8. There is a strutting guide somewhere on the forums which helps a lot but basically you want to put struts even in between orange tanks in order to avoid them from collapsing - I did a Saturn V replica that was about 1'500T on the launchpad and worked: The 1st stage was 2 orange tanks on top of each other with one big mainsail below it, the two orange tanks would have 4-symmetry struts in between them to prevent them from collapsing into each other, and I alt-copied the stack before putting radial decouplers in a 4-way symmetry on it and therefore duplicated the bottom stack. Then strutted the bottom tanks of the "fuel boosters" to the parent tank (they would all detach at the same time in my case but for asparagus - or onion - you'd also put fuel lines there), cross strutted the tanks to one another in the middle, and even added a strut right above the extended radial separator since it seems weaker than the hydraulic detachment manifold - anyways it's not strong enough. Finally I strutted the "boosters" to one another, once at the bottom, once at the top, could cross-strut the tanks in the middle as needed but it wasn't necessary in my case. Before strutting this properly I had a 1/3 success ratio and needed to toggle the gimbal on my middle engine just like the real S-IC of Saturn V launch vehicles. Now it's more like 90% - failures occur once in orbit PS: In some rare cases you may even need to strut the engine to the tank. To achieve this, the strut must go from the tank to the engine as you can't radially attach anything to engines
  9. I believe the orbital period is what matters the most here - you can also use this measurement for various other types of orbits (ie - Molnya orbits), you simply need to divide the orbital period by 4 compared to real life ones
  10. You may want to DISCONNECT any part from your pod before replacing it.
  11. In short - right click the debris-shaped icon that appears when you hover the top of the map view screen.
  12. I am afraid the very awesome (and somewhat heavy) "rover" plates are your best workaround for now. You could also give a try at disabling the "snap to angles" option - it's often a very lucky bet with C7's parts.
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