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robopilot99

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Posts posted by robopilot99

  1. Hi everyone. my old laptop has died on me so I am looking to purchase a new one pretty soon. The big things that I'm looking for are:

    • Good processor (planning on studying computer engineering so I'll be doing a lot of code compiling)
    • Decent battery life (at least 6 hours)
    • Dedicated GPU, good enough for some light gaming
    • 15" - 17" screen size
    • ~$1300 budget at most

    Things I don't really care about:

    • Windows Hello stuffs (just gonna install Linux so it won't do me any good anyway)
    • Touchscreen/convertible laptop (Can't see myself using it)
    • HIDPI screens (I feel as though I would rather have the better battery life and support isn't fantastic on Linux anyway)
    • Moderate bulk/weight (my current laptop is a 17" monster and it doesn't really bother me)
    • Gamery aesthetic (Just seems like a theft-hazard to me)
    • DVD drive (just in case it comes up)

    Basically what's the best general-purpose laptop I can get for $1,300? Can I get all of the stuff on my wish list, or am I going to have to budge somewhere? My current front runner is this mid-tier config of the XPS-15:

    http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/dell-laptops/xps-15/spd/xps-15-9560-laptop/dncwxb1641sv2

    If anyone has a good recommendation let me know.

  2. On 11/22/2017 at 8:35 PM, pxi said:

    The main issue imo is trying to replicate the N64's gamepad layout on a common (think xbox) controller - there's simply no way I've found to map those buttons in a way that feels good.  The common consensus seems to be to map the yellow buttons to the right analog stick, but that really feels off to me, but it does seem to be the way a lot of people do it.  How much this affects you will greatly depend on the game though.

    I've had good success with mapping up C up and down to the two leftover face buttons on the right side of a standard controller and then mapping C left and right to the two shoulder buttons. I map R to the right trigger and Z or L (because they're never both used as primary buttons) to the left trigger with the other one mapped to a "Select" style button or a stick press. I find this setup works really well for games that use the C buttons for additional actions (like Ocarina of Time) rather than as a directional input.

  3. On 6/28/2017 at 0:54 AM, qzgy said:

    What's happening? I'm not filled in...
    Quick google search showed an EVGA 1060 3gb for 750 USD. There was also an MSI card for 240 on prime, but I don't think it should be that high, should it?

    Etherium is a new crypotocurrency that is mainly mined on GPUs. This has resulted in a great scarcity of high-end GPUs until the bubble pops. There are several threads floating around related to this topic if you want to learn more.

  4. On 6/17/2017 at 8:50 PM, Arugela said:

    I'm looking at a GTX 1060. I've seen it as low as 189$. The only issues is I'm not sure how to tell what the motherboard clearance is for my board for video cards. Is this listed anywhere in general? I'm not sure if the manual has this or not.

    You saw a 1060 for sub $200? I looked yesterday and prices were way up, I presume as part of the Etherium mining boom.

  5. Hi all. I got some great pointers a few weeks ago when I was helping a friend put together a build (it turned out great by the way, thanks to @legoclone09 and @LoSBoL for the solid advice) and am now kinda itching to build a system of my own. 

    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7xMnVY

    I don't want to spend a huge amount of money up front so I've taken steps to help control cost by using parts that I already have with the expectation of upgrading them later. I was hoping that in the near future to upgrade the GPU and perhaps install and SSD and then in the more distant future to potentially upgrade the CPU and RAM. My budget isn't exactly fixed but like I said, I'm trying to keep initial costs down where possible. I want to be able to use this PC at my current desk so I have elected to try and construct a micro ATX build despite the trade-offs in cost and upgradeabillity. This isn't a hard constraint and feel free to let me know if you feel I am trading off to much to get the micro ATX form factor. If anyone can spot some good improvement to the initial system or knows any good upgrade paths please let me know.

  6. The situation is that a new type of blockchain-based currency named Etherium is exploding in popularity. Etherium is similar in a lot of respects to Bitcoin but has a lot of other capabilities like the ability to sign contracts and form organisations using blockchain-based technology. Etherium mining tends to be limited by the available memory bandwidth on the mining computer, which means that GPUs made by AMD based on the Polaris architecture are the best available systems for mining Etherium.

  7. Hello all. I posted a few months back with a potential PC build for a friend and got some great advice. Unfortunately stuff happened and he did not get around to building his PC at that time. Of course, the world of PC hardware changes quickly so I put together a new build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jCyhr7. I would appreciate if anyone could provide feedback and/or recommendations. Now for more info about the build: My friend is looking to build a general-purpose/gaming PC that will remain upgradeable for the next 5-6 years. His budget is $800 - $1,000 including the PC itself as well as peripherals (keyboard, mouse and monitor) as well as an operating system (included in my system build). If anyone has any suggestions in order to improve this build please let me know. Thank you all in advance.

  8. Well, I know that the history of KSP on the Unity engine goes all the way back to Harvester's first prototype of the game when it was still his pet project. He probably chose it because it was very accessible to a independent developer and supported all of the physics necessary for rocket simulation. The continued use of Unity, as you pointed out, is likely due to the enormous cost of switching and essentially re-codeing the whole game.

  9. 18 hours ago, 0111narwhalz said:

    I have opinions about the Physics test I took. Voicing them might be risky, though.

    Yeah, gotta watch out for College Board's darn bots scouring the internet on a pointless quest to control the flow of information (Information wants to be free!). Besides that it's cool to hear that so many people here also took the AP Physics 1 exam. I took that class and had a great time. On the other hand my AP Principles of Computer Science class is terrified because they have taken some practice tests which they have performed very poorly on and are now seriously doubting that they will pass the test. Luckily for me I have a large amount of general computer knowledge from outside our class and feel very confident in my ability to perform well. Good luck to all of you on your exams!

  10. On 1/8/2017 at 5:52 PM, Mr.Rocket said:

    Hi Elthy,

    The last question is simply asking how much you would be willing to pay for our potential product ( I believe this is what you're talking about. There are several different end paths). I know the prices of solar panels fluctuate depending on your roof (We could not find consistent data for the price of a solar panel) but essentially this question is asking how much above the regular price of a solar panel would you be willing to pay for a solution (per panel). Basically we want to know if we should go with a fully functional but expensive solution or if we should go with a low-tech, cheap solution.

    But thanks for putting in the time to take our survey. My group appreciates it. :D

    Well it is more complicated. I think that Elthy as well as myself were questioning what counted as a "hot" temperature. 90F, 100F? That certainly affects whether such a product would be useful for our homes in the locations where we live. The way I look at it it's a simple question of cost-savings. Does the additional cost of your product offset the cost of the additional solar panels I would have to buy to offset the power loss due to heat?

  11. Yes, apparently the launcher's patching function has been broken for a very long time now. Please try to be more constructive though. You are right in your expectation that an application past it's version 1.0 release shouldn't contain features that are simply non-functional, but the whole anger-venting thing isn't helpful.

  12. 2 hours ago, worir4 said:

     

    1 minute ago, Randox said:

    I have one. It's a fair joystick, and I can't argue with the price (that is why I bought it). I got mine to play DCS world and it has worked find for that. That said, mine has been a little loose since the day I bought it, having just enough wiggle to the left to register as an input, which would be super annoying in a game like KSP where flying arrow strait for long periods of time is very important. That might be something I can fix on my end, and it may just be a defect in my particular joystick.

    I also get a kick out of the throttle, which seems to have been installed backwards. I always have to invert the axis so that I push the throttle forward to increase it (which is logical to me), rather than pulling it back, which seems to be how it was designed.

    Can't say I have your problems with sensitivity, I assume you've tried recalibrating it? As for the inverted throttle it's not a defect in your unit. It's stupid how the throttle axis is inverted from the physical markings on the stick!

  13. 2 hours ago, worir4 said:

    Not sure if this counts as a PC building question but does any one have any recommendations for a HOTAS under £50? (first time getting one)

    From personal experience I can recommend the Logitech Extreme 3D Pro. I've had for a while and it works great with KSP. It can also be had for as little as $35.

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