richfiles

@RoadRunnerAerospace Use fingernail polish remover. It's based on acetone, and that will break down cyanoacrylate glues such as superglue. It's also readily available at any departments store or drug store for a reasonably low cost.

Sometimes, you have to suck it up, and start on the more mundane tasks... I began cutting bits of copper sheet (actually, this particular sheet is VERY thin PC board material) and started work on the light boxes that will go into my five analog edgewise meters. Protoboard is cut and filed to fit the openings, and the edges of the copper traces soldered to secure the board to the light box. These light boxes will contain red green and yellow LEDs to illuminate the colored portions of the analog edgewise meters correctly. Outside the light boxes, the LED lighting will be the blueish-green LEDs that i previously acquired. This photo is not washed out, cause I had not selected the super bright LEDs like I needed... I'll have to desolder these and put the correct ones in. Red LEDs will go into the other slot, and the green LEDs will have no divider, as those color bars are only one color. I may need to do something different for air density... Possibly one long box with a bright blue LED shining at one end, and no LED at the other? Maybe? One down... 17 or 18 more to go... Like I said, sometimes you end up with some rather mundane tasks, that you just have to slog through. When all these are done, I'll also cut out side shields to stop light spill from the main illumination from BLASTING out the gap for the meter movement to pass through...

I hate that I never feel whether its right to "like" a post like this... I agree that it sucks... I don't Like that your disc got trashed! "Likes" just feel weird sometimes... When some tragic, horrifying puppy kicking thing is shown on youtube by people trying to help... Do... Do you thumbs up to show sympathy, or thumbs down to hate the thing that was done!?!?... GAH! I mean, it's obvious that you "like", but it just feels SO WEIRD to "Like" when a bad thing happens. And my mouse is still dumb...

The reason for the lack of logic, is there are two separate groups being clumped into one (which I'm sure they would complain about in this thread ). There are deniers (who are usually just ignorant), and there are anthropomorphically driven global warming deniers, who do not deny the existence of global warming... They see the evidence pointing to geological activity (such as volcanism) and solar cycles dwarfing anything humanity is remotely capable of. They absolutely DO believe in global warming, but see it as a part of the natural cycles of the Earth and solar system. Cycles of heating and cooling will come and go naturally. But yeah, the ignorant ones are just flat out dumb. The others are simply interpreting the data differently than you do. Remember that even in science, there can be multiple theories, and multiple ways to interpret datasets. As for my thing to complain about today... I think I am developing ulnar nerve entrapment in my left wrist, and my left mouse button is going intermittent... Sometimes i have to MASH the thing to get it to click, sometimes, it double clicks, sometimes I'm dragging it and the thing just randomly releases... And I HATE regular sized mice... I LIKED Apple's "hockey puck" mouse... I got a Microsoft Optical Notebook Mouse, and I LOVE the shape and the small form factor... I move it with my fingers and wrist instead of the wrist and arm... But it's unreliable as PTTHT! It's the SECOND one I've bought! Ugh...

I'm glad you liked the ideas! I look forward to all of it!

So... I was thinking... I am rather fond of the similarities of the Kerbal solar system to our own, and I've been promising myself that I'd install OPM when I finish my hardware Instrument/Control Panel as a reward for completing that project. When I first saw OPM, I was kinda turned off at first, that Eeloo had been moved, and made a moon of Sarnus, but once New Horizons got the pictures of Pluto, and Plock was properly made to be a true analog of Pluto, I kinda decided I was cool with Eeloo being relegated to moon status. It had a lot of similarities to a real moon after all, and it worked in that position. One thing I appreciated, was the fact that Eeloo was left mostly stock. There were some procedural craters added, and texture details improved, but Eeloo is more or less still the same Eeloo. I'm the type of person that is cool with adding new content to, but not taking away from stock. With that in mind, this mod looks AMAZING, and It's very tempting to break my image of a fairly accurate mini model of our solar system, for the sakes of enjoying this, but one thing puts me off... I definitely appreciate Ceres, and I feel the little dwarf planet (still a planet) deserves more love and respect. I'm glad we sent a probe there to explore it, but I honestly think a lot of people didn't even realize it was there, till only a couple years ago. This is also why I hate when people try to make the claim that a dwarf planet is not a planet... I say it is... It's just another class of planet, like Ice giant, Gas giant, rocky, icy, etc. It's as if the astronomical big wigs DON'T want people excited about exploring our solar system, a place that gets more and more interesting all the time... Ugh... Sorry, tangent there... So back to topic... I like Dres. I'm not opposed to adding easter eggs to Dres (for example, keeping it all the same, but adding an extra biome, and updating the texture, to add the white spots that were discovered on Ceres), but I more or less would not want to see drastic changes to Dres, and that's where this mod kinda lands on my "I like it, buuuuut..." list. The fact that Dres is completely redone in this mod takes away my feeling of it being a Ceres analog. I had two ideas that could make for interesting install options for this mod, and I'm curious what other people think. I already know of the mod that adds additional stars and accompanying solar systems. I'm actually thinking of options much closer to home... The first idea leaves Cyran in it's orbit between Duna and Jool, but does not replace Dres. Instead, the custom moon that is called Dres in this mod gets it's own new and unique name, and Dres then occupies the exact same orbit as Cyran, but trailing the orbit to match the approximate location that corresponds to the L4 Lagrange Point (or it could lead Cyran at the L5 point). Officially, KSP does not support true Lagrange points, but it does support overlapping orbits. I can't remember which mod and which moons it was (I thought it was OPM, but I can't find the pics, and I could be wrong), but I did see one mod that has a tiny moon trailing a larger moon in the same orbital track. I think making stock Dres sit in a simulated Lagrange Point, and making the custom moon bearing it's name into it's own uniquely named moon would be a great option, for people who want to retain stock Dres. The second option would be a bit more extreme. Basically, one would leave Dres entirely alone, in it's normal orbit, but make Cyran into the theoretical "Planet Nine" (even though I strongly disagree with the consensus of excluding dwarf planets in planet counts... Sorry! Tangent!). That pulls it out of the "core" model system, and places it where it'd actually potentially fit, without making it into something at interstellar distances. I don't know how to implement either option, to be honest. I am curious if either one of these possibilities seems intriguing to anyone else, and whether alt configurations might be worthy of creation. Though I feel the second one is more in line with conforming to a model of the real solar system... Having such a fun little planetary system be so far away might not be as entertaining, and a Lagrange captured Dres also sounds interesting. Does anyone have an idea how to make this configuration actually work? Again, very cool mod. I love it, though as I stated, I think you should make "your Dres" into a moon truly your own... Give it a unique name, and consider a simulated Lagrange Point stock Dres. It'll add a cool extra flair into your mod, and people who want to still avoid Dres can still wantonly choose to deny it's existence! Just a few thoughts.

Just do be careful when cutting and drilling acrylic (plexiglass). If you go too fast, plexi will very easily crack. I find I much prefer to work with polycarbonate, but the trade off is that I think it scratches a little easier. It's a bit more flexible though.

Definitely look into the bar graphs. What about these? They have 4 red, 4, yellow, and 4 green LEDs, and the LEDs are endwise, so the bar is physically longer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Segment-LED-BAR-Indicator-DIP-4Red-4Yellow-4Green-/301996008039 At only $1.39 each, it'd be less than $18 shipped to get 10 of them, which would cover Liquid Fuel, Oxidizer, Monoprop, Solid Fuel, Xenon, Electric Charge, Temp, G Forces, Intake Air AND Atmospheric density! Pretty much ALL the analog readouts! If you want more resolution, you can go with the traditional horizontal style segmented bar graph LEDs like you found. If you stack two or three of those end on end, you can get a lot of resolution out of them. If you want one color, but more segments, these will bump you up to 20 segments, and the seller offers them yellow. 5 for $20. I think you have to specify that you want the yellow ones if you order. Seller sells them individually, by color, but they are more expensive that way. I'd contact the seller and verify color. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-20-Segments-LED-BARGRAPH-Array-for-VU-METER-Driver-Arduino-Bar-Graph-USA-/380099290188 (The second item is a chip that can control the barograph LEDs)... See below for a description of how it works... If you want to do 10 bargraph displays, each 20 segments tall, then the bulk quantity of chips is exactly the number you need, and only $25 for all the chips combined. http://www.ebay.com/itm/20x-LM3914-IC-LED-Bargraph-Display-Driver-Dot-Bar-Mode-LM3914N-1-Arduino-USA-/332178917347 Now... If you want to make a couple of those readouts be REALLY special, you could splurge for one or two of THESE puppies... 101 segments for $22! http://www.ebay.com/itm/BARMETER-180mm-LED-Bargraph-display-101-Segments-light-indicator-color-yellow/152638333037 It would honestly take TEN of those chips just to drive one of these... But woah nelly! How cool would that be! I'm personalyl considering buying three of those to use as rate meters! It's WAY cheaper than the Russian micro bar LEDs... I think... Anyway, to control these bargraph LED displays, you can do a couple things. You could even use something like the Max7219 control boards to do it. If you go that route, try to use a segment display with 8 LEDs instead of 10 or 12... or 101... There's a way to make it work for bigger LED bar displays, but you lose the total number you can drive, per chip, and have to deal with things like diodes and stuff. A single Max7219 can drive eight separate 8-segment bargraph displays, or four separate meters made of 16 segments. I think the better option, especially if you're using multiples of 10 segments of LEDs, is to use an LM3914 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12694 (the bulk link above is cheaper in quantity, by A LOT) to convert an analog output to drive the LEDs. Since the Arduino code for the analog metered values actually makes sense to output as an actual analog value, you can get those chips, and just send the value to each of the Aurduino's PWM/Analog out lines. The Mega already supports 15 analog PWM outputs, so you're covered, wether you decide to do 3 meters, or all 10 analog readouts. You'll need a simple resistor and capacitor to smooth the PWM from the Arduino into a genuine analog signal, and the chip can handle the LEDs from there! There is a way to chain the chips, to get 20 or 30 segments, or even more if you wanted it. You set your analog range with the R_lo and R_hi inputs. All you need are resistors to set those. The first chip, you set R_lo to 0 volts, and then whatever value gets to the top segment of the first display, you set that value as R_hi for the first display's chip, and as R_lo for the second display's chip, and you continue that, till the last chip's R_hi is the max voltage. Sounds complicated, but it's not that bad. In the case of the 12 segment displays i suggested, rather than buy an extra chip just to cover a measly two LEDs, it might be better to have the max and min LEDs be manually set with I/O pins, or to even rig something else to handle it. You could even wire the top and bottom LEDs to stay on as "end markers" for the 12 segment LEDs I showed, and then only change the middle 10 LEDs.

LOLOLOL If I had half a clue what I've spent, I'd be fine sharing it. I'd have to figure it all out though... Hundreds, easily. Partly though, that's because I'm buying premium parts. You can get analog meters for a few bucks, but I've spent upwards of $10-40 a meter to get REALLY NICE ones. My FDAI cost a couple hundred bucks alone, and I still got it for an absolute steal. I spent way too much on LED displays alone, though to be fair, ebay refunded me for bad ones that came from China (skim the simpit repository I link to in the first message of my post to get the long term history of this project). I spent a lot on toggles with a fancy lever (and I'm not even sure if I like that style now...). I spent $70 on Futura typeface rubber stamps. I know I've spent $20-80 from ebay, dig-key, and other online parts sources as few times each... I spent $40 on aluminum panels once. Long story short... I have no idea anymore how much I've spent! Maybe that's a good thing! I have still kept my costs down from being even higher by salvaging and recycling many parts too. My enclosure is mostly recycled materials that I got for free. The important thing, is that you can spend as much or as little as you like, to be fair. Max7219 modules from China are DIRT CHEAP... If you get a good one, you can have an entire array of LED displays for about $10-20. Cheap toggles are in a never ending supply. An Arduino clone is all you need (still go with a Mega), so there's no need to go with some overly expensive kit or official branded model. My mega cost $9.99 from Micro Center. It's entirely possible to keep costs down, if you limit the amount spent on parts, go with cheaper parts, and maybe even do a little salvage.

I ended up either buying or downloading the font (I can't even remember), and I bought an actual rubber stamp set too, shipped from Australia, made in South Korea... And far too expensive to ship to the US! ... And then I ended up maybe finding a screen printing company that could maybe possibly do the job for me... I think you can get a variety of speaker options. There might even be a speech synthesis shield. One quick and simple option might be to get a cheap <$5 ISD1820 audio recording module. Record your terrain warning, hook it to a speaker, and an Arduino, and it can trigger the playback of the warning. The module will record up to 10 seconds, and can loop. Also, I'm 95% sure those toggles you posted are tiny toggles. If tiny toggles are your thing, then those are absolutely decent for the job. If you're wanting bigger toggles (like what often are used with the flip top safety covers, you'll need to get a different part than that. Couldn't for the life of me find a big toggle, so took a pic of a small toggle, next to one mounted in a piece of vintage test equipment:

Can you settle on yellow LEDs? On ebay, there seems to be quite a few lots of "yellow 7 segment LED" displays to be found. Me personally, I went with green for an Apollo look, but I dig going for amber for the aviation look too. My keyboard is 100% custom, with blue and grey "aviation" themed keys (It's the "Danger Zone" key cap set), and amber LED sublighting. I actually did spend the extra on legit amber LEDs, vs yellows, so I know what you mean with he price difference. These days, amber is something of a "specialty color". It doesn't feature the same level of mass manufacturing red, yellow, green and blue have, thus the slightly higher costs. Also, I was the one that posted the idea for a homemade T-Bar lever, using a slide potentiometer. I'll drop the diagram below. It's pretty straight forward. the one non obvious element is the bottom is two horizontal segments, with he t-bar lever sandwiched between. Tightening the bolt at the pivot adds resistance to the lever. You could drop some nylon washers in there to serve as friction bearings. It's also very easy to make this with a rotary style potentiometer. For rotary, you just mount the handle to the potentiometer shaft, but you must take care to support the shaft, or the pot will be stressed if you apply lateral forces to the lever. This home made t-bar below is not mine, but was posted on my build thread, and I really like the design, mainly cause it's SIIIIIMPLE! It's just a piece of angle stock with a slot cut for the lever, a few mounting holes drilled into the top for actual mounting to the panel, and a mere three drill holes (4 if your pot has an indexing pin) in the bottom angle for mounting the pot and the t-bar pivot support. The pivot support consists of two parts. One part has slots for adjustment and mounting to the angle stock, and holes to clamp down the other part, which serves as the top half of a clamp. This adds resistance to the lever, giving it a better feel. A nylon ring serves as the friction bearing. I also concur with the suggestion to go big from the start... Don't even bother with the Uno, go for the Mega. I'm already at the point where I know I'll have multiple Arduinos, each working their own subsystems. A Mega will be at the heart of it all. I like the idea of your terrain alarm. I'm doing something a slight bit different on my build, though I'm not against implementing an idea not unlike yours as well. On my instrument panel's "DSKY", there will be different LED readouts for things like Apoapsis, Periapsis, Time To Event, etc... I have some nice rectangular annunciator LEDs that will serve as indicators for different functions, states, and alarms. You can actually snag some very nice ones off ebay. To be honest, I have a pile of yellow ones I'll never use... Salvaged 'em from surplus medical equipment... Not a green one in the lot! I've literally been drilling out the leads and LED dies from the back and epoxying other colored LEDs in place of the original LEDs... Anyway, kinda went on a tangent there... What I'd like to do is keep a set of constants for each body in the Kerbal system (plus any planet packs I install, such as OPM) stored in the Arduino handling the digital LED readouts and annunciator LEDs. The stored constant will be either A: the edge of the atmosphere, or B: the highest point of the terrain (for bodies with no atmosphere), or C: The lowest altitude where thermals are survivable. Any time Periapsis is lower than one of these values, I want a chime or tone to ping, and a red "LOW" annunciator LED will light next to the Periapsis indicator. It simply means that your orbit is no longer stable, and could become sub-orbital, either due to the potential for terrain collision, aerobraking reducing your periapsis even further, or eminent thermal destruction. It simply indicates that you had better intend to either land or burn if you don't take action. Other annunciators I want to support would include Chutes Unsafe/Risky/Safe indicators. I'm not certain if that'll make it into the packet, or how hard it would be to actually add it, if it's not. An actual terrain alarm is relatively basic enough. You need a variable to represent wether you have silenced the alarm or not. Pressing silence with no alarm active should do nothing. Just monitor your radar altimeter value and your vertical velocity value. If your vertical velocity is greater than a set downward amount, and the radar altimeter drops below a set point, and the silenced value is not set, then you activate your alarm and indicator outputs. Pressing a silence button would set the silence flag to true, silencing the alarm, and keeping it from being retriggered. The LED indicator would stay lit as long as the vertical velocity and radar altimeter both exceed safe limits. If you go into safe limits, the indicator should extinguish, and the silence flag be reset. I think...

Yeah, I'm still around. Just a mix of stupidity at work, mixed with finding all 120 shrines in Zelda and... Minecraft... Dear Lord, I finally bit that bullet... Apparently, according to my stats, "richfiles has walked 171 km in Minecraft, and rode 25 km by mine cart, and played 144 hours..." You know... It's a lot, since I did build a rail station with pushbutton line selection, selectable 0-4 cargo cart deployment, and connected two villages with my super secret underground redstone powered base... Sadly, I discovered... a desert bordered by a savanna village... I want to find a village in a snowy area to the north west... Purely for the sole reason of having a rail line leading to "Borg Nordvestr"! Old Norse makes EVERYTHING sound cooler! It's funny that you got curious about progress today. After a couple months of no progress... Today I spoke to my boss at the machine shop about getting some time on the bigger mill to mill out the openings to the main instrument panel. I also looked into ordering female header sockets with flying leads... Only to realize I'm better off just soldering ribbon cable to the female header sockets I already have. Everyone sells individual pins for Arduinos... I want proper long sockets, and ebay is being stoopid™ (that or I just haven't found the magic (key)words to search by). I want to use them to attach the diode ROMS to the LED driver board, which will mount behind the main DSKY LED display board. I want to figure out a good LED driver as well. I ordered MOSFETs and transistors MONTHS ago. I need to stop by the screen printing shop and see if I can get an official purchase order... That is, if they are still willing to print the tape for my tape meter radar altimeter. I've unfortunately, had no replies regarding the images I submitted, so I'm not actually sure what is even going on with them. My biggest worry is the software... I STILL have no real grasp on programming C... I think I can cobble together the basics like analog meters and toggles and digital displays, since there is already base code to start from for KSP serial IO, but the prospect of coding the software to run my FDAI is daunting... I understand what needs to happen, just not how to implement the code to do it. *EDIT* One more thing... I had mentioned a while ago (in the simpit repository) that the structural rail for the control panel slide interferes with the leftmost edgewise analog meter. It's the entire reason I went and sold some of my single meters and bought more double meters. It let me eliminate some of the single edgewise meters, reducing my count to just four of the edgewise meters int he front instrument panel. One of my justifications for this was I didn't want to cut into the meter housings... I am now tempted to do this. It occurs to me, that if I cut into one of the meter housings, I can shift the four meters slightly to the left side, and net myself a hair bit more space. I've been concerned whether I have room for both the tape meter and the carriage meter. Moving the edgewise meters slightly over, even if it means cutting into a housing, gives me a bit more space to work with. Part of me is tempted to try to have a go at building the LED light boxes to direct the appropriate color LED illumination on the correct areas of the scales. I could check cut clearances then and see how that will turn out.

Made all the more impressive, given the username, plus it being a landing mission!

This is only the second strangest thread I've seen here... *click*

The fact that in the GIF that Red Iron Crown posted in his comment that closed this for a whole year... The weapon the T-1000 terminator is carrying is about to click against the jail cell's bars. hehe... DON'T CLICK!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_XAEPSeX-cTerminator 2: The Alternate Cut... or "So, a man walks into a bar"

There ya go! Stay or leave, either way ya flip, yer welcome! Given what a few people saw on that user's history... Definite troll, but sadly, I know there are more than a few people who are genuinely like that. If you asked me, I'll tell you flat out that I'm absolutely religious, but I don't let that become a point to fight over with others, and I CERTAINLY don't fall for that weird flat Earther, Moon hoaxer nonsense. There are ways science and religion can reconcile. Anyway, It's a non-issue. I'm not gonna go into religion here, other than to say that ignorance is sad, and faith doesn't need to breed ignorance. We're here for launching little green dudes (and dudettes) into orbit! So, the one thing I want to complain about right now... The fact that that thread is closed, so I can't point out in the GIF that Red Iron Crown posted in the final comment... That the weapon the T-1000 terminator is carrying is about to click against the jail cell's bars. DON'T CLICK!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_XAEPSeX-c Terminator 2: The Alternate Cut... or "So, a man walks into a bar"

I have something to complain about, but also to be happy about... Thursday night, I went partially deaf. No loud music or noises... Just mildly disoriented, and then I eventually realized an hour later when I was in my car, I couldn't hear the bass from my left ear. Scared me like Bill seeing grass in his rocket's window... The thought of never hearing bass notes from my left ear again, the thought of it possibly being caused by something far worse was really freaky. Not getting sleep cause I was at the ER till a half hour passed midnight, when I was already ready to nod off. Knowing that the next morning was gonna be the toughest day at work all week, due to the stuff we do getting all pushed back to Friday cause the US Independence Day holiday. Being prescribed something that flat out warns "may cause sleeplessness"... Ugh... The disorientation was the result of my aural spacial location being skewed... Sounds did not "feel" like they were coming from the right locations, since my ears were no longer capable of hearing the same sounds anymore. Because I'm a "freakin' nerd™", I tested my own hearing using a function generator, before going to the hospital... Hehe... My equipment was better than theirs! I determined that at 340 Hz and lower, sounds became diminished (they felt about half as loud as my right ear, which was normal), plateauing till they got down to a frequency of 160 Hz, where they rapidly dropped off. At 130 Hz and lower, I was entirely deaf. No detection of any sound at all below that frequency! So, besides deafness, there was also the tinnitus... Holy sheet, that is... WOW... I lost my LOW range... This was no high pitched ring like most people think of... I'd describe it as "the feeling like I was surrounded by 'random wind' and/or 'mechanical rumbling' noises, ALL THE TIME" It's maddening, and if that's not bad enough, when I actually WAS near wind or machinery, Like my air conditioner, since my brain now heard those low frequencies form "both sides" now, thanks to the tinnitus, it made EVERYTHING MECHANICAL sound TWICE AS LOUD!!! It was an aural hallucination, triggered by the tinnitus! It was HORRIBLE! And MUSIC... Imagine the worst, cheapest, most Made in China, AM BAND ONLY pocket transistor radio ever, and music sounded WORSE. It was tinny. It did't even HAVE the low notes, like they just forgot to add them to the song. I just couldn't hear them. It was as fascinating an effect as it was heartbreaking! They told me, the symptoms presented as a viral ear infection, and that I had a 2/3 chance of my hearing returning. That's still a 1/3 chance of it NOT returning. That's frightening! They also told me that if the hearing didn't return, they wanted to do an MRI and check for "growths"... We know that translates too... Even worse... So I went to bed pretty freaked out, and laid there forever worrying about it. That's pretty annoying, I guess. The GOOD news, is by the morning, the anti-viral and the anti-inflammatory had already begun to work their magic, and my hearing was already showing signs of improvement. he plateau had shifted down to starting at 310 Hz, and had expanded so the drop off happened at 120 Hz, and the NEAR cutoff occurred at 90 Hz. 70-90 Hz was detectable, but could not be differentiated. By the end of Friday, I could hear down to 50 Hz, and the plateau was rising. This morning, I was detecting 30 Hz, and the plateau was nearly gone. I'm relieved! So happy that it's healing! I'm the type of person that collects vinyl records and has a 7.1 Bose surround sound system... I think if I'd really have gone partially deaf, it would have really hurt me to lose that part of my enjoyment of life. It really was frightening, and I'm grateful that it's healing! Let it also be a lesson, I had NO CONTROL over this. I wasn't subjecting myself to loud music or noise... It was just an infection. Don't waste your hearing by turning music up too loud. That you do have control over! Appreciate music for the rest of your life, not just a portion!

I hate when someone posts a non Kerbal specific topic (but one that still has direct relation to the behavior of the company that owns KSP) to "The Lounge", where topics not directly related to KSP itself are supposed to go, but it eventually gets closed for "not being on topic". Darn it... That's what The Lounge is for, and the topic was entirely relevant, regarding the company that now (unfortunately) owns KSP... That company's behavior today reflects on how they handle KSP tomorrow... Oh well... Topic closed... I hate that. Hate it with a passion. It's just sucking up to the new owners, censoring dissent. Hate it... That's what I wanna complain about today. Well, at least I have plenty of days off from work this weekend and next to work on my KSP Instrument panel... Or sleep in. Whichever happens.

Horrifying and heartbreaking to hear, tater... But preach it... People need to watch those too young to watch themselves, and not let them near danger.

The fact that people are already scalping the new SNES Classic... Even though it's still three months away... Seriously, stores NEED to enforce a one per person limit this time around, given how impossible it was to find the NES Classic last year. Nintendo already claims they will manufacture more units... Personally, I hope they take advantage of the "cash cow" and make enough units to leave scalpers who buy several at a time high and dry, with no way to profit on them, save for reselling at or only just over retail... So freakin' sick of Nintendo scalpers... I swear if I ever actually see one... See someone carrying 5 of the things out of a store... I'm gonna nut punt 'em and watch the boxes fly everywhere!

Well, we could always ask for a dog of some kind to be thrown on Plock as an easter egg...

Me: Gets out of bed... Me: Crawls back under the covers...

Love the Telemachus integration! It looks GREAT! The gauges are really nice too! I Like!

Oh, he just has the beer cause he just learned Take-Two bought KSP. I'd drink too... Yeah... KSP has felt like it's been in bad hands for well over a year now. I just feel like it's at the mercy of whatever blow will strike it next... I LOVE KSP, and love the original creators, but I have NO confidence in regards to it's long term future. A year ago, I looked forward to someday seeing what a version 2.0 might possibly bring to the table... Today, I fear 2.0.

That's the thing... the "cracking" WAS DONE LEGALLY... That's the whole point of clean reverse engineering. A license and law are not one and the same. It's not illegal to reverse engineer something. It might be against the license to do so. That's where a clean reverse engineering effort comes into the picture. One team reverse engineers the game. Sure that violates the license, but no code is created. Since they created no code, there's no software in violation of the license. All they do is document the overall operations of the code... Not actual code, just what the code does. The second team takes that documentation and then writes NEW and ORIGINAL code, having never, ever actually seen the original GTA code before. By following the behavior documentation, they create an original LEGAL work that just so happens to be (mostly) compatible with the targeted software, and they have never looked at the target software's code. This is how reverse engineering works. Reverse engineering is legal! Even the team that created OpenIV said it themselves... They could have taken this to court to prove their case against Take-Two, and probably could have even won the case under fair use... They documented their reverse engineering process, and could prove in a court that their software was legit reverse engineered, and is not a derivative of licensed code, thus immune from Take_Two's C&D. They could have done that... IF they had the time and money to do it, and were willing to deal with the abysmal stress of it. Unfortunately, it's not worth the hell that the would go through by going to court against a giant company for them to fight it. They didn't give up cause they were wrong. They didn't give up because their software is illegal (it is NOT illegal) They gave up, cause fighting is hard, expensive, time consuming, and stressful. Take-Two are a bunch of two-faced liars when they claim OpenIV is illegal. They. Are. Lying. To. You! Their EULA is not law, and reverse engineering is legal. Don't be sheeple, people! As to the claim that going after the modding tool "makes sense"... Look at GTA V's rating on Steam right now... Take-Two vilified themselves. They WILL lose customers over this. People will stop buying Shark Cards over this... They won't lose everyone, no... But they lost a great deal of respect, and exchanged it with utter hatred and contempt. There are safe harbor laws... You don't go after an ISP for hosting a piracy website... You take down the website. Going after OpenIV is like going after the ISP cause there's a piracy site on it. What Take-Two did was morally bankrupt. It will hurt them in the long run, if they fail to fix this. OpenIV was never the problem. Taking down OpenIV didn't stop the online MP hacking (cause it has nothing to do with the online MP hacking), and they killed their own SP community because they are greedy $#!+$ that WANT Single Player to die down, and force people onto the more financially lucrative Multiplayer online mode, to be microtransactioned to death. You don't go after the ISP cause there's a piracy website hosted by it. You go after the site, not the ISP. You don't go after the modding tool, when a handful of mods enables monetized content. You go after the mods, not the tool. As long as Rockstar uses Take-Two as a publisher, Rockstar will never see another purchase from me again. I won't be paying jack$#!+ for any KSP DLC either. I REFUSE to support Take-Two in any way. They can burn for all I care.