Sputnix

So I've worked out how to get the VData to output to my TFT/LCD (using dtostrf). I've got most of the TFT/LCD running in the 'utilities' tab (seemed to be the best place; TAPOR also found that this was the best place for the 7-segment displays, and I followed suit with my own, and also found that the TFT/LCD code worked best from there). The only code that isn't there is the 'start up' text, which resides in the setup function. Question: Has anyone found a way to slow the refresh rate / cycle? I can't seem to work out how best to do this so that it can actually become readable [you can see the associated video to see what I mean]. I'm using the Mega, with proper hardware SPI being used; and I used this guide + associated code [ https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/TFT#toc10 ] to get my head around outputting data on the TFT / LCD. I'm also using the inbuilt TFT library (which apparently extends the adafruit ones).

That makes sense; That would also mean the in-game altimeter (at least, default) is based on Alt. Thank you for the clarification

Done some heavy testing today. Working 100% with the current steam release (1.0.4.861). As an aside, can someone explain to me the difference between these two? [i'm guessing one works beyond the confines of Kerbin, and the other doesn't? ]

Oh that's nifty. I've looked into maker-spaces. But, as you highlighted, one of the better ones is in Hawthorn (a bit of a hike from my location); Ringwood Secondary also hosts one on weekends -- because they have a TAFE component to them, they have access to some pretty neat additional equipment. It'd just be 'nice' / fun to hang out with people who are learning / know some of this stuff better to learn from They weren't recreating the Moog were they?

Any progress on this KK4TEE?

Haha. Gonna try replicate the 808, or something a little more modern? Wha? Library? 3D printer? Gosh, what suburb do you live in that they trust the locals with such equipment? Toorak? However, they have predicted that to happen -- at least in the USA; ditto for maker-spaces. Unfortunately, not many in Aus yet, and most around the the main CBDs.

Thanks guys I'm in the (un)fortunate position where I've currently more free time than I'd like. So I'm trying to burn through and get it done while I do have the time / opportunity. Also, I'd like to finish it so I can start programming it - and actually using it to *play* KSP!

You need to start your own thread dedicated to all this so we can follow it properly You've got so much awesome equipment. I wouldn't even know where to begin finding a navigation ball here in Australia. Ditto for those edge-meters. I think the USA has a lot more better and older surplus equipment than we do. But then, you guys did a heck of a lot more back in the mid-century than we did Very interested (and slightly jealous) of what you will build

RE: SAS -- Thanks for that. I must've missed that (but with 100 + pages, I was bound to miss a bit in there :\ ) was a great read though, and really kick-started my own project RE: Telemachus -- I hadn't yet played with it, but had some ambitions to do a Mission control / space-craft type simulator using it. For something like that, I suspect the delay is more true-to-life; I didn't realise there was such a delay - which, as you point out, is quite problematic. Kudos on recycling old tech [i often like doing that - where I can; problem is you wind up having a whole lot of old tech lying around for extended periods of time with no practical use ]

It's always awesome to see people take their ideas to a v2.0 level! (I don't know if I'll have the energy / interest once I'm done ) RE: Display -- have you thought about using the Telemachus plugin? (Depending on the data that you want displayed -- and I'm not entirely sure Telemachus would be useful). Although, that requires a computer (unless you scored the 7" from an old eeePC, this brings you back to square one) :/ ** Uh, what now? What SAS control scheme(s) do you refer to here?

I'm still very new to the Arduino; however, I've spoken to people who have paired Arduinos to Raspberry Pi systems for various uses. Given the RP has native video output, would / could that be a possible solution for you? [of course, I'm ignoring budgetary constraints - and just thinking of possible solutions to the problem ]

Thank you very much for that! Can I also suggest another data point [Assuming it is at all possible]? CurrentStage //The current (or last) stage fired, as an INT TotalStage // The Total number of stages in the rocket, as an INT (I don't think either of these are currently implemented -- at least, I couldn't find them in the list on the first post). Thanks!

Thank you for that Zitronen! I would imagine it would get *far* too problematic to have one for every single part (since there would be n^n parts on any number of space-ships). I figured it would just be useful for a 'warning' light. Just to clarify -- does that mean it gives a '43% hot' type value? (as opposed to a dropping 'structural integrity')?

Finished the Lower Panel today. I sanded out some of the damage I inflicted around the slider -- and in the process gave the whole panel a 'brushed aluminium' look. I'm pretty happy with the look Also means it should be better to adhere decal labels to. The 8 buttons are for - you guessed it - action groups. This is why the Abort is in the same 'locality' - since it's technically a dedicated 'action'. Flight control switches to the right (SAS / RCS / Stage) With miscellaneous switches underneath (Lights / Gear / Brakes) Throttle slider far right.

I saw a quote somewhere about that on here. I can't seem to find it - but basically it was along the lines of "It started out with a few lights and a switch" I think I've come close to about AU $300.

Just a small update. I had some extended time with the 3D printer, and some black spool -- so I thought I'd make the most of it, and print out all the top panel in black. The ultimate goal is to prime it (so as to fill up the little spool-grooves) and then spray it a grey-blue colour, similar to what they had in the Apollo ....-pits. I believe it was an insulation coating on the metal surface to prevent shorting. Either case, that's one of those 'nice to have' features (when / if I get around to it). I've just got to finish running wires to the different parts of the panels, and then start working on the coding; once I've worked the code out, working with KSP_serial_IO, I will post the results here so that anybody else can basically use it for their own endeavours.

I originally had plans for a console that would go above and either side of my monitor. But there aren't enough 'switches' (so far as I calculated) in-game to justify such a space A single above-monitor console would probably work well. Depending on the monitor, it could be attached to the rear Vesa-mount. Darn it -- now you got me thinking about doing that!

I'm ok with heat guns - I just meant that it's in another league in terms of heat Google defines embossing as to: "carve, mould, or stamp a design on (a surface or object) so that it stands out in relief." So, from that perspective, it does. Because the powder 'melts' and then creates a slight 'relief'. The reason this is useful (at least, within the craft world) is that you can create nice relief's without destroying the card / paper. Also, it means that you can use a stamp, throw some of the powder on it, melt it, and you have an embossed image (from the stamp). [Talk about a detour in discussions ]

Tapor demanded an update - so here you are! There have been two main updates to the project -- 1. Annunciator Panel So I'd been dreading the idea of cutting out 9x rectangles for the annunciator light panel. Which is perfect that I recently had access to a 3D printer! [i seriously gotta buy me one of these things!!] It took 2x single-cell tests to confirm cut-out and mount size, and then a final print [which worked perfectly first go!]. Left - cutout was too small; Right - perfect; just had to move the cavity that holds the lamps over a bit to make it more central. Rough placement (with lights being held in place by tape). It will be held there by a prototype / vero board, which will be attached via metal stand-offs to the back of the 3D printed panel. This means I will be following Marzubus' example of 3D printing panel-mounts (only for the top part, however). 2. Shift Register Board While I wait for my shift-register chips to make their way from sunny China to me, I started working on the board that will be controlling it all. This will be used to control *all* the LED lights. Each panel-mounted LED has two 'inputs' (a red and a green, owing to the fact that they're dual-coloured LEDs). Then there are 9 Annunciator lights. A master alarm, and an Abort light. Needless to say, I've pretty much used all there is from this array of shift-registers 3. Dual-coloured LED housing / panel mount Mulbin made a mention of using dual-coloured LEDs for enhanced lighting / information. I really liked this idea (as well as his suggested use-case) so I'm following it However, these LEDs have 3x legs (1x cathode, 2x anodes) [i think I got that in the right order]. Basically a common 'ground' / 'negative' that sits in the middle, and then each colours respective 'positive' leg. Most panel-mounts for LEDs only have 2x holes, so I had to modify the ones I got on ebay to suit. And the underside (which I'm still working out how to wire up neatly) Hopefully I'll be able to share some more soon!

I believe heat shrink / paint strippers are a whole new level (in terms of heat). The ones they use for card-making are for 'embossing'. You get a powder that you put over a special adhesive substance (it's basically just 'clear ink') and then hit it with the hot air, and it gives it an embossing finish. I'm pretty sure they're not as powerful as either of the two tools you mentioned -- but I would suggest that those two would probably work just as well (or better) than the embossing tool

I'm actually using the 2RU server handles on the project itself - But thank you! Door handles are for a future 'console' project - much like they used here, on the sides of the consoles (mostly the CRT tubes, no doubt to easily place and remove as necessary). I spent probably about a month researching and looking into how I can use alternate gear to replicate / mimic period-stylings. As for the supplier - yes, out in Clayton ; Rockby Electronics. They have a 'surplus' type store, and a proper electronic front too - so they usually have what you need. They had the Retex boxes in the main show-room, in a corner. Almost missed it completely. Hard to find places like them these days. Still got one out in Bayswater - Truscotts Electronic World; but I find Rockby is better laid out, and has better stuff. However, you will find more older / vintage stuff you can strip for parts (or even just boxes of old stuff) at Truscotts. It just depends what you're after You know of any other places for parts?

Thanks I'm waiting on an ebay purchase of a few shift-registers which I'll use to control the lights, and also working out how to create a support for the annunciator panel. I have access to a 3D printer, so I'm thinking replacing the top Aluminium panel, and doing similar to what Marzubus did with his joystick / simpit. Would make it a lot quicker, easier, and cleaner. Would still need to paint it - but that's still better than dealing with cutting out a whole heap of small rectangular cut-outs.

So Mulbin made a comment about using a hair dryer; Depending on the surface you're decaling, it could work. My mum actually got into the 'homemade / handmade' stamps & cards thing a few years back, and bought a special tool much like a hair dryer - but it gets hotter a lot quicker - used for drying stamps. I'm planning on using that tool; given that I'm sticking it to Aluminium, I think I'll be ok. Plastics or paint-covered wood could become an issue. However, I'd hazard a guess that a hair dryer should work fine! PS -- completely missed the part where you named your project 'ODDYSSEY'. I wasn't trying to copy; just been watching Apollo 13 lately, and liked the name [Although imitation is the greatest form of flattery - or so they say ]

Thank you I was very mindful of adding a 'design' element to it - both to keep it neat and organised, as well as making it look nicer. Placing everything within the predefined grid helped that.

Primarily because I think and over-think. This way I make a decision, run with it, and it's done! I'll most likely have to change the top panel to mdf / ply - because the little rotating blade tool I have barely worked for the slider cut-out. It will be easier to use more traditional wood-work tools for the annunciator panel and the 8-digit 7 segment displays.