Nuke

well then do yourself a favor and dont. its that bad.

it was certainly better than resistance. not as good as the clone wars or the bad batch. ive only watched all the animated star wars within the last year or so, so its all in fairly recent memory.

lol, people doing minecraft things irl.

the best reactors that have flown have been on the order of kilowatts, not megawatts. fear mongering about nuclear results in very little actual advancement in the field., and it doesn't help that all the nuclear engineers are an aging population. i worry that nuclear technology will become lostech in lieu of green madness.

i like what they are doing with andor, but it seems to lack the action sequences of typical of star wars.

im not. im playing an old version because i dont like the way they 1984ed up the game.

did you try sacrificing a small animal to the norse gods? im not kidding either, you always have to do weird things to get bluetooth to function as described on the tin. its is one of those technologies i wish would disappear and make room for something that actually works. as for actual troubleshooting, every time my bluetooth gets a driver update via windows update, it breaks something. when i went to download the drivers from the mobo website, they had the 32 bit driver in the 64 bit section, and sure enough thats the driver windows update was pushing. stupid microsoft. try a manual update and take steps that prevent windows update from breaking fuctional drivers. you can also try using the driver rollback feature in the device manager, that never works but you can try it.

i had some 10+ year old hard drives. i opted to dismantle them over potentially leaking personal information. secure wipe yea, but you never know. they were old and sketchy and sometimes didnt show up in the bios at random. i still got the 4tb drive on the router for backup, but i think i want a nas proper that i can plug into the 2.5gig port. i have a lot of unused 512gig ssds, and i figure id put them in raid5. they are not the same model, and so the worst performing drive dictates the overall performance, but then again you are bottlenecked at the network port anyway. still need to find a soc with lots of sata, raid, and a 2.5 gig network port. should point out that my budget is precisely zero right now (we also might be moving).

i always thought the little freakout sounds in mincraft were a clever bit of sound design. a lot of games skimp on the atmospherics. quake had a good ambiance soundtrack that complemented the game, but it was just pre-recorded music and not event driven. freespace had event driven music but was not really ambiance, the tempo just picked up when you commenced a fightin'. after that sound design became somewhat of an afterthought, a solved problem that was best left to sound artists. minecraft is a programmers game, so its nice to see that they can use sound creatively despite being code monkies.

i wish they would bring back the pinto so i could afford the benefits of car technology. i do not care that it explodes on impact. il just put the nasa worm logo on it.

it was a high profile launch. that no doubt was one of the reasons nasa was pushing so hard (likely egged on by members of congress). they simply prioritized expedience over safety and paid for it.

seems we always come back to the problem of the power supply. something that can deliver on the order of a megawatt without being utterly massive would be a lot more revolutionary than any new type of electric engine. though i never figured id have to bring it up in a thread about tether engines. i guess that is revolutionary, i mean it does spin.

i saw a picture of one of my nephews that looks suspiciously like me. i guess im darwin award exempt. take that genepool!

am i the only one who recognized "positively electrifying" as an oxymoron?

been meaning to build my own camera for some time now.

i build lots of things, but i never take pictures.

i burn my bridges with nuclear fire, so no. also my best friend from high school is dead.

i think you can do the lug on a variable length card. it would just need a little captive thumb nut attached to a bracket under the heat sink. this could be made low profile enough such that its only half the height of the pcie slot. would require a keepout region around the hole. full atx boards would be fine with that, they have the real estate to spare. for flex atx , mini-itx, and mini dtx, the nut would be completely clear of the board. full size micro atx would be an issue because you would need to go through it, and those boards tend to densly packed like mini-itx. another method would be to offer 2 rows of holes, one for 2-fan cards and one for 3-fan cards. single fan cards are usually ok with just the bracket. this also allows the really cumbersome cards to have 2 extra hardpoints rather than one. for reverse compatibility the bracket can simply be removed (or not installed by default).

i remember the first edition of the x52 (saitek branded) it was technically a hall joystick. but it was implemented in such a shoddy way as to be worse than a pot joystick. it was actuated through a plastic rack and pinion. there was a sliding peice with a single magnet. that moved over the sensor. this no doubt lead to a lot of nonlinearity that was questionable. i dont know how their b-fields were oriented, turns out that's really important for linearity. best results ive had were placing 2 magnets in north-south north-south order on either side of a rotating armature, which would rotate about the sensor (an ss49e in a to90 package with the center pin roughly in line with the rotational axis). such that you get straight flux lines through the center axis where the sensor is placed. the stick also had a single spring system which i didnt really like. on the ch fighterstick usb, i can feel how much x and how much y i have applied, you just cant do that with the x-52 the saitek x-36? i think was the stick i mentioned in my previous post. just a terrible pot stick. its only redeeming feature was the throttle paddle it had behind the throttle grip. the ch fighterstick is legendary, those will last a decade easy, though i wish they would have used a material other than abs plastic. it makes it look cheap (its not), and has lead to the hardware trim being a bit sloppy. and i wish they would have used a better adc (its only 8-bit).

after my dentist appointment today, i am now down to 15 functional teeth. get to go back in 2 weeks for fillings. yay.

no. i got some really high quality potentiometers from the '60s that still display good linearity and low noise. they were made in the usa, so good luck finding that now. ive actually tested this by connecting a stepper motor to the pot and stepping through at regular intervals. the data looked about as clean as what i was pulling off of the hall sensor. the quality of potentiometers in joysticks ranges from excellent to awful, and its not always in the ones you would expect. i found really crappy pots in a fairly high end stick (an old saitek hotas, which also had awful wiring), and my ch controllers had really solid pots as well. however durability is also an issue. with older ceramic or metal cased pots, they are damn near immortal and they come from a time when analog was king. but the newer pots which are made with conductive ink and pcb (usually even crap like bakelite pcbs) are very subject to wear over time. they have exposed copper contacts which can also corrode. hall sensors are not all rainbows and unicorns either. the sensors i have evaluated are only liner through about 80% of their range. others have dead bands on the top and bottom of the analog range, some as large as a volt off the top and bottom at 5v, which is 2/5th of your range. you can compensate for bad linearity (for any sensor) by generating a look up table of measurements at known angular displacements (eg 1 degree per index), store the raw measured value along side a corrective calibration value. for any value, find the 2 measured values that bracket it and lerp the associated corrective values, add the result to your data. measure each sensor because its a good probability that 2 different sensors (even of the same type) will need different corrections, and number your sensors so you can associate the correct lut to the correct sensor. the best way to make the measurement is with a stepper motor, well isolated from the hall sensor to prevent magnetic interference. there is also a matter of range. most of the hall sensors i have are good for 180 degrees before any dead or nonlinear zones are delt with. while most pots do 270 degrees (though other ranges exist, also make sure they are linear and not logarithmic). pots do not usually have dead zones and you can use the full range. either range is more than what a joystick uses (30-60 degrees). gearing or mechanical linkages can be used to reduce the range, but add extra play. you can also use a higher resolution adc and direct drive to reduce slop. hall is better in this regard as you are throwing away less useful range, especially when you can only use 2/5th of it (thats 72 degrees). the most innovative joystick sensor ive seen are the optical sensors used on various sidewinder sticks (lare '90s early '00s). these were the same sensors used on early optical mice (usually a low res camera + pre-programmed dsp). id love to see a modern refresh of this using better sensors, as you can get mice with stupid resolution now. that said it all comes down to the engineering and any corner cutting they made in manufacturing (which are ever present in todays tech markets). get something you can mod. reviews and teardown videos are critical in making a decision.

i can only watch the shows they make. if they dont make my preferred thing, il find something else. ive watched a lot of shows i wouldnt have watched for want of my usual genres. as much as id like to see a serious attempt at a battletech tv series (live action this time pls, your audience is in their 40s and 50s now), more dune stuffs, or any adaptation of various classic scifi books that im never going to have the time to read. but im going to be stuck with the mediocre star trek/wars derived shows or whatever the next big thing is.

i have this album where its just schizophrenics screaming whilst being stimulated by an anonymous black metal band. i wont link to it because it borderlines on exploitation, and so you probibly couldn't get it through anything but pirate channels anyway.

flying cars don't make much sense. if you can fly, why bother with ground travel? what we should be asking for is affordable light vtol aircraft. now you just need to get your parking space certified as a helipad and somehow comply with noise restrictions. thats probibly more expensive than the vtol itself. as for my "why doesnt it exist yet" thing. i kind of have a pet peeve with atx case standards, which i find are woefully lacking in the structural capabilities. these standards were formalized back when most processors just needed a small fanless heat sink and a graphics card didnt contain several pounds of copper. two things id like to see in the standards. the first are standoff locations for hardmounting the cpu backplate. for dealing with the load of large tower coolers without putting too much stress on the mobo. ideally you would mount your cooler through the loadplate/mobo/backplate direcly into the mobo tray (probibly with spring screws). the other would be a forward lug for the gpu. this would be a line of heavy duty standoffs an inch or two off the end of the pcie slot (either beyond or through the mobo). you could then mount the gpu with a large diameter thumbnut. both require a bare minimum of effort to comply with, mobo and case manufacturers just need to put in the holes. cpu manufacturers would need to adjust their sockets (which they do every few years anyway) and gpu manufacturers would need to add a bracket to accept the thumb nut.

old skool country is all i listen to in that genre. modern country music is atrocious. loretta will be missed.