Alphasus

I never meant that as a bad thing or as a judgemental statement. It's just a statement of fact that mechanical switches naturally would have no tactility or click.I think heavy tactility is enough feedback for me. So, I don't use clicky switches. Other people might, but that doesn't change that both tactility and clickiness are artificially added to mechanical switches.

75 pounds isn't far from something with Gateron Browns.

How much is that keyboard? I'm seeing it commonly for around $100. In my case, MX Clears cost anywhere from $120 to $150 depending on size. At $150, you get white backlighting and MX Clears, but that's quite expensive. Gateron Browns are generally agreed upon to be nicer than MX Browns because they are smoother and more tactile. The click in Razer Greens and MX Blues comes from something inside the switch mechanism, but it's not natural at all. The sound comes from the stem causing something below it to snap down quickly, which makes the noise. In other switches, the stem doesn't click because the white part that snaps downward isn't there. All the same, Blues and Razer Greens won't work without the white part below the stem. In my case, MX Clears cost anywhere from $120 to $150 depending on size. At $150, you get white backlighting and MX Clears on a full size board, but that's quite expensive.

PSU For a PSU, an EVGA 500B would be a bit better, whereas any Corsair RMx or EVGA Gold rated PSU would be significantly better in your required wattage, which is 400-600 watts with some space for Crossfiring your current RX 470. A Corsair CX500M would also work, and be a bit better than your current EVGA 500W PSU. Keyboards and Mice Keyboards and mice are odd to recommend because they're very personal. Mice For mice, if you can spend 60 pounds or more on a mouse, I'd recommend any mouse with a 3360 or 3366 sensor, which is flawless with no acceleration. My personal favorites with those sensors are(in order of best to worst) the G403 Wireless(75 pounds), G Pro(70 pounds), G403(52 pounds), or the new Deathadder(80 pounds). For something cheaper, the G102(if you can find it, it's around 40 pounds) has a flawless sensor like the above in a G Pro shape, but its sensor is lower DPI. Otherwise, find an inexpensive mouse from someone like Zowie with a 3310 sensor in a size that you like. Keyboards For keyboards, if you have around 60 pounds for a keyboard, see if you can find a keyboard with whatever Gateron switches you like. If there's a store near you to test which switches you like, see which MX, Razer, or Logitech switches you like, and get the Gateron equivalent. Kailh switches and Outemu switches are also options and sell in mechanical keyboards under 50 pounds. Their color coding is the same as the MX color coding. If you have less than 30 pounds, find a membrane keyboard that you like. If you'd prefer mechanical and tested some mechanical keyboards out, save the results of this process for later so that you can easily tell which mechanical keyboard you would like. It wouldn't be a bad idea to spend a little bit on an OK membrane board and use the saved money for a nicer mechanical board. Mechanical Switches Razer Green - MX Blue - Gateron Blue - Clicky, Tactile Razer Orange - MX Brown - Gateron Brown - Tactile Romer G - a lighter MX Brown - a lighter Gateron Brown - Slightly tactile All MX switches other than MX Clears have Gateron equivalents in the same color as the MX switches. MX Clears have no Gateron equivalents, but Gateron Browns are closer. Gateron Clears are very light linear switches. If you have 90 pounds or more, you can likely afford real MX switches. However, Gateron Browns are thought to be better than MX Browns. If you find a buckling spring keyboard(Model M or Model F) for a low price(sub 50 pounds), it's not a bad option either. The tactility and sharp actuation on buckling springs are legendary, but they are very very loud. Most Model M keyboards are full-size/100%, and it is rare to find a tenkeyless Model M. A refurbished tenkeyless Model M, or Model M SSK, is worth 200-300 pounds on eBay in good condition or better. Now that you know how to find your preferred switch, I'll explain how to find what form factor would likely be best. Keyboard Sizes/Form Factors 100%/Fullsize-A keyboard with a numpad, arrow keys, and function keys as well as page navigation keys. Very common form factor. TKL/80%-A keyboard without a numpad, but with arrow keys, function keys, and page navigation keys. Very common form factor. 66-68%-A keyboard without a numpad but with arrow keys, and some page navigation keys. Used with the Magicforce 68(Gateron or MX) and the Leopold FC660 series(MX only). 60%-A keyboard without a numpad, arrow keys, function keys, or page navigation keys, but with ways to input arrow keys, function keys, and page navigation keys. Often has different keyboard layers so that a user can have "profiles" or layers with certain inputs on them. Used with the Poker series, which is currently on the Poker 3(MX only) and Anne Pro(Gateron), as well as the HHKB(Topre). 40%-A keyboard without a numpad, arrow keys, function keys, number row keys, or page navigation keys, but with ways to input all of those except the numpad. Often has different layers. Is nearly impossible to find preassembled, with the exception being the Vortex CORE(MX only). With your current computer, install a keypress heatmap(http://whatpulse.org/) and leave the keypress heatmap running for at least 1 day of use, preferably 2. If you rarely or never use the numpad, you can get away with a TKL keyboard. If you rarely or never use the arrow keys and function keys, a 60% board would work for you. If you use the arrow keys but not function keys, a 66-68% board would work out. If you don't often use the number row, a Vortex CORE would work but it's risky if your use case expands. If you use a numpad but not some other parts of a keyboard, you can buy an external numpad and get a smaller form factor keyboard. Personally, I use a Vortex Poker 3 with Cherry MX Clears(and this reply is so long partially because Clears are amazing to type on in my opinion), which are like more tactile brown switches while still being relatively quiet. Poker 3's are 60% keyboards with support for layers and macros on the firmware of the keyboard. So, when I press a key in a certain layer, let's say layer 4, it can input my password in as a series of keypresses. My recommendations in the size ranges are below: Keyboard Recommendations 100%: Ducky One or Shine 5 for backlit, Filco Majestouch for non-backlit(both MX). Corsair K70 for MX switches if you don't care about upgradability of keycaps, but the Shine 5 and Majestouch are better boards. Lots of Gateron boards available in this size. TKL: Ducky One TKL for backlit, Leopold FC750R for non-backlit(both MX). Corsair K65 for MX switches if you don't care about keycap upgradability, but the FC750R is a better board and the One TKL is a bit better too. Lots of Gateron boards available in this size. 66-68%: Magicforce 68 or Leopold FC660M for non-backlit(both MX, MF68 does Gateron too). 60%: Poker 3 for backlit or non-backlit. In the non-backlit variant, it has very high-quality keycaps(PBT and thick) stock(MX). Anne Pro for backlit and wireless, but limited selection of Gateron switches. 40% Vortex CORE for non-backlit. The only backlit options are DIY until a backlit CORE comes out(MX). No Gateron options except for DIY or homebuilt keyboards.

If you don't mind me asking, I can't see this question. Is it on page 167?

Fair enough.

The power supply could be better. It's a reasonable supply but could be quite a bit more reliable. You do save 10 pounds by going with 1x8, so you could benefit from those savings, bringing you to 510 pounds. Though I doubt you could fit a better PSU. If not, keep the current PSU and build because it works. I do have some keyboard and mouse recommendations if you need them too.

I've been the Nvidia person here for a while, but even I would get an RX 470 over a 1050 Ti(30% to 40% faster) at the moment because there's a $150 one on Amazon US.

1x8 for expandability, though so you can hit 32 GB of RAM at maximum. Also, I was able to fit in an RX 470 above, which should be better than even an unlocked RX 460. Other benchmarks(or, 1050 still has a 2.3 fps lead at max and 1.5 fps minimum in Witcher 3, one of questioner's games).

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/YBshGf This build would need a wireless adapter, but I fit an RX 470 in there instead of an RX 460. That's anywhere from 70% to 100% faster than the RX 460. I also fit in a nice case, but you can remove that if you already have it. Just use the saved money for an SSD(like the PNY one, though a 120 GB 750 EVO would be better) and a wireless card. The build you gave will run KSP adequately though its CPU could have a faster single core speed. In Witcher 3, BF1, and GTA5, its video card should be quite a bit faster than an RX 460. The RX470 above would be adequate for that. I dropped the SSD because your budget isn't large enough to justify one if a case is needed too.

I might make something new for this, but lost all the time needed for battles.

I got a keyboard! https://imgur.com/a/4p9Bp

MX Clears are very very tactile and they don't have sound feedback(other than the clack of bottoming out) but are more tactile than Blues and Razer Greens while not clicking. Their tactile bump is larger than the above 2 switches. They also are harder to actuate than Razer Greens or MX Blues, at 55 cN vs 50 cN(checked Deskthority for that). It is difficult to bottom out Clears due to their 95 cN peak force. Blues have a 60g peak force, so it's not too difficult to bottom them out. Force/Travel diagram (CN / mm) comparing Cherry MX Clear to Cherry MX Brown. Each graph is the slider color. Shadowed lines are the up-strokes(From Deskthority). Force/Travel diagram of MX Blues. Lower line is upstroke(From WASD Keyboards). Peak force is bottoming out at 95 cN for clears, actuation is at 55 cN, and tactile bump is at 65 cN. Grams and cN are interchangeable but I prefer cN.

You could get a switch tester and test out Clears. With a modular keyboard, just put the MX Clear in wherever you are pressing most often and see how they are.

I like the huge tactile bump, but am a bad reference for if switches are too heavy. I used a Model M at 80cN and it was quite a bit heavier than actuation on my Pok3r, which I've found to be really hard to measure,but it's either 55 or 65 grams. I'm quite sure it's 65g, but regardless, if you're used to Reds, Browns, or Gateron Clears, the MX Clear will feel heavy because you might try to bottom out. The MX Clears mean I don't bottom out anymore. An HHKB would be nice, but I'd like a Pok3r in MX Blacks first. Either that or a Vortex Core or some custom 60% board that I build myself with Zealios and Zealencios, aluminum casing, and full programmability.

At present, I have a Poker 3. http://m.imgur.com/a/4p9Bp Click the link I guess. It has MX Clears, Blue LEDs, and Vortex PBT Doubleshot Shinethrough keycaps(the new ones with top legends). How do you like Gateron Browns? I really don't like MX Browns due to the tiny tactile bump, but I hear Gateron Browns have a bigger, smoother bump.

The power consumption difference isn't greater than 20-25W as far as this review says. http://techreport.com/review/30488/amd-radeon-rx-460-graphics-card-reviewed/12 The 750 Ti used 20W less, so that means the RX 460 uses 95W under full load( only variable being GPU) because a 750 Ti uses all 75W. That also means that the real difference between the 1050(Ti) is at least 20 watts. I don't specifically know how much 20W extra power usage can affect heat dissipation. That's not a bad inference. As long as amperage stays the same, voltage should cause temperature to increase, due to wattage increasing. If voltage increases at the same rate that amperage decreases, temperature should hypothetically stay the same. Yeah, actually using the phrase Novideo shows that to be true. It's only a thing on ayymd as far as I know. Is this thread just computers or is it keyboards and other peripherals too? I'd like to ask people what keyboards they've been using and want to know if this is the best place to do it.

Fair point if you don't use Windows. EDIT: Power is almost irrelevant because it is maybe 25W, which won't affect an electric bill much as all. I understand the inconvenience of an extra cable for the GPU though.

Because the 480 can compete with the 1060 in DX12 which is the future. However, the 460 can't compete with a 1050. Showed that above. The eventually outperform is a trend along most comparable AMD vs Nvidia comparison.

Found this review website showing on the 2nd page of benchmarks, the 1050 winning by 10 fps or more. On the 1st page of benchmarks, AMD wins very few but they are closer. The RX460 and 1050 aren't neck and neck, as the review site shows. I'll look for a cheap 1050 so sure. http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2658-gtx-1050-ti-and-1050-review-benchmarks-vs-460-more/page-5

Wouldn't a GTX 1050 be better because it's faster? Or do you mean a 4GB RX460, in which case I recommend a 1050 ti, which is, I'm very sure, faster.

Thanks! Just was making sure.

The claim on GPUs is debatable at best and wrong at worst, unless benchmarks have changed since I last checked.

With drtricky's entry, 7.

I really do plan on waiting for 8 planes.