sal_vager

Hmm, well I haven't tried strutless craft as a test yet, are you just becoming a better builder?

I'd love it if the avionics pack gave you some more readouts, like radar altitude without having to go IVA.

Can you email Squad at support@kerbalspaceprogram.com regarding this? As it's not something we can address, I for one would like Linux support but as it needs the Unity player that is up to Unity.

You got unlucky it seems, and you posted just as the old threads were cleared out, you can post it again you know But try 0.21.1 first in case it fixed your issues.

Trouble with 0.21 is this, all the new bugs are so new I have no idea yet how to address them.

It's rightshift in Linux, it should remap but the key you chose might be in use elsewhere or considered invalid by KSP. Okay I don't know yet, make sure no files are read only and permissions are correct. This just is not happening to me, again, are permissions correct? It sounds like KSP is unable to modify files. Not aware of this bug yet, it might be due to an old settings.cfg, you might need to use LC_ALL=C, or it might be your mouse/driver just doesn't like Unity. We'd need your KSP.log at the very least but I suspect this won't be easy to figure out.

It's working fine here Eleven, can you delete your settings.cfg and see if that clears it?

Add more control devices guys, it's important.

Hey it took me a while to figure it out, and I don't have a cat to help me. Also guys please stop with the "Magic torque", there is no magic behind it, please see here and here, that technology is the basis for the pods rotational torque and has been since the early days, it's unfortunate that the recent releases have omitted the relevant text from the Mk1 pods description. The tech linked above is also used on the ISS, Hubble, nearly all satellites, ocean going vessels and even in fancy cameras for image stabilization, oh and also in segways, there is no magic involved.

This went from an empty dev thread to an argument thread, Darth Maul, please make a new thread later when you have something to show, as this one is junk, sorry. Everyone else, guys, there's no need to pick apart other peoples methods, it puts them off developing in the first place, please keep such commentary in the Junkyard, thanks. Closing!

Hehe, I have the EQ mount too, that's the mount I was talking about, it's the legs that make it wobbly, the EQ mount will be rough to use until you strip it. Good luck transporting that scope by bicycle, the length, and the bulk of the tripod, will be a pain. Nebula tend to be large and faint so light gathering power is important, you will see them but they will be brighter with a larger objective lens or mirror, you can get round it a bit by using lower power eyepieces as the less you magnify, the brighter your image will be. If you will be doing astrophotography then you can use long exposures to absorb more light, which is how you'll get those pretty colour images, a 120mm lens can do it but it'll take more time than with a larger scope. This site should help you understand what you can expect to see, I hope it helps.

It has 120 intakes hidden in the engine pods

Good enough? It's an all-stock SSTO with working cargo bay and it was made by pa1983

Woohoo! Now who do we have to beat to be the best selling Linux game EVER!

There's nothing preventing you from stacking intakes though, it's fun to see what is possible so don't let some notion of what is right and what isn't deter you. Some really impressive craft are possible, if you don't mind creative construction

That's not a bad scope actually, I have a short tube version of that with the older style tripod. They have very good objective lenses for the money, build quality for the scope is okay too, but watch for the extras you get as they tend to be extremely poor. They usually come with a finder scope that is so badly made it is useless, and a 10mm eyepiece and 2x barlow lens, plus the tripods are wobbly and will need a bag of sand/stones to help weigh it down and keep it from shaking. The mount itself is chunky but build quality is low, you will find a lot of tutorials online on how to strip it down and remove the swarf, grit and cruddy grease it comes packed with, and how to make it work smoothly. This seems to be a common issue with these chinese scopes, unfortunately. That one you linked to has a long focal length, so you'll get a lot of magnification with the 10mm, you'll definitely want some low power eyepieces with long eye relief, such as a 25mm and 32mm. A red dot or reflex finderscope is another good upgrade over the supplied finder, as are some filters if you intend to use this in a city, you will want to filter out the streetlights. Refractors also need a cooldown period before use, all scope do really, but yeah you'll avoid having to collimate it. All in all it's better than a beginners scope by miles despite all its shortcomings, the 120mm objective lens is not big enough for really small/dim targets but is great for the larger galaxies, planets and things like that.

This is due to a change in the shaders used Wolf, and it is possible to use the older version of X. This site has instructions on running the older version of X so you can use the legacy drivers.

Don't buy a beginner scope, you'll end up hating it. If you don't know the stars yet it is worth getting a starmap and a set of low power binoculars, preferably with large lenses, a 7x50 is recommended for beginners (7 times magnification, 50mm objective lenses, but is hard to find) or a 8x60, which is a more common size for spotting wildlife in low light conditions. Binocs are very portable and easy to use, you'll have fun with them, then when you know the stars you can think about buying a scope. The main thing you need to consider is transport, a scope you cant move to a dark site won't get used and is a waste of money, are you cycling? driving? how will you move the scope? how will you protect it in transport? A refractor is a lot more robust so if your scope is going to get the occasional knock you'll want one of those, as it won't have a mirror that needs to be tweaked every time you set it up. But to see the most stars you need a big objective lens or mirror, reflectors are cheaper in this regard, and a dobsonian is the cheapest way to get a big objective, but remember you need to transport it. Most beginner scopes have weedy tripods that will just wobble your view and you'll have no fun, so if you do buy one you will soon be thinking of upgrading the mount. Don't forget eyepieces, low power ones give the brightest view and the most stars, and most beginner scopes only give you a 10mm and one other if you are lucky, or a barlow lens, you end up with a tiny overpowered view you can't prevent from shaking. Whatever you buy though, remember you have to move it, and no scope is much fun if you can't find where to point it, one dot looks like any other when you don't know what it is.

Everyone starts somewhere, and I hope you have a lot of fun learning to make mods, good luck

Nope, Squad have said a number of times that there won't be a rival or enemy, no weapons, no-one to fight. Your goal is to conquer space and explore

If you release good addons, other modders will come to you

Good, I'm glad it's working better for you now

Yep, KSP is a game and the devs rule the skies, they can make a purple planet and it does not need to have an explanation or a real world analog. They flicked through a colour wheel and decided purple was the future for high gravity, thick atmosphere planets

Welcome to the community xMoneyShadow There is a strong modder community here, and I'm sure you'll find a lot of help as well as a lot of ideas.

Have you tested other sticks? There are two throttle axis you can set, progressive and absolute, try both and see which works best for you. From what you describe though, I think your stick is not calibrated correctly.