GusTurbo

Open Source Construction Techniques for Craft Aesthetics

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now, the main course ! :P

So, here's a little trick made possible with the new rotation and offset gizmos in the editor :)

Breakdown of the technique : use the offset tool to 'move' a part (it needs to be long enough - the offset gizmo cannot create a 'gap' between a part and the part it's connected to by itself - once your part is 'fully' outside of the origin part, you can't go much further) - however, the offset tool also moves the rotation gizmo with the part - and the rotation gizmo can be used to turn a part 180° to create this gap. (note : at this point, if you try to reuse the offset gizmo on the rotated part, the offset gizmo will automatically remove the gap)

here's a small commented image album to illustrate how it can be used :)

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direct link to the album : http://imgur.com/a/cKTUm#0

now, if you want to use this technique in the reverse order, it's also possible - though you may want to use the select root tool to your payload once you made your gap :P

Have fun ! :)

Regards - Sgt_flyer

Edited by sgt_flyer

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I discovered that if you take the mk1-2 command pod and place a flat adapter on the bottom for a heatsheild you can hide it using the offset tool underneath a rokomax brand decoupler and you get a clean seperation

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You know how the stock SRBs are too small, of course you can use liquid boosters and make them look like SRBs ...but they throttle.

Here's the answer!

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Be on the lookout for a new mad rocket using this technique.

It's here!

http://forum.kerbalspaceprogram.com/threads/113356-It-s-here!-The-Omega-good-looking-heavy-lift-vehicle

P.S.

For More Boosters you can put as many inside the fuel tanks as you want.

Edited by Mad Rocket Scientist

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The problem: how to cap small Mk3 spaceplanes with a cockpit that sits good but isn't hugely oversized. The standard capsule is almost right, but that gap is fugly...

6ZgQIzp.png

The solution: gizmos to the rescue! The 2.5m decouplers sits very nice if you sink it one tick with the translation gizmo:

IccmKs2.png

And then we can put the tank adapter behind, and move it forwards while we are at it.

MgbzSxO.png

The end result is flush, beautiful, and functional: add a chute on the nose and a few (hidden) separatrons, and you got yourself an abort ejection system!

aCj6cDm.png

Rune. Long time since I submitted the last trick!

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The problem: how to cap small Mk3 spaceplanes with a cockpit that sits good but isn't hugely oversized. The standard capsule is almost right, but that gap is fugly...

http://i.imgur.com/6ZgQIzp.png

The solution: gizmos to the rescue! The 2.5m decouplers sits very nice if you sink it one tick with the translation gizmo:

http://i.imgur.com/IccmKs2.png

And then we can put the tank adapter behind, and move it forwards while we are at it.

http://i.imgur.com/MgbzSxO.png

The end result is flush, beautiful, and functional: add a chute on the nose and a few (hidden) separatrons, and you got yourself an abort ejection system!

http://i.imgur.com/aCj6cDm.png

Rune. Long time since I submitted the last trick!

Beautiful

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Good looking plane nose:

1. Take Mk1 inline cockpit, then take some actions:

fXoNquS.jpg

2. Final result:

l1lPQAx.jpg

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That´s very nice, Mesklin. Probably I´ll use it in one of my next designs.

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I've not been on the forums long, but a new dog can have new tricks, too. :rolleyes:

I love using the 2.5m engines, but IMO the Poodle looks like a badly drawn cartoon and the Skipper's orange undertones aren't big on me either. Here are some tips to improve your engine's flair! *Heavy part clipping involved, but for aesthetic reasons only.

For the Skipper, start off with your fuel tank of choice (2.5m or larger). Place a C7 adapter upside-down below it, and an FL-A10 adapter below that. Then, plop the Skipper. Like so:

iFfBYSt.png

Now, use the offset tool to slide the Skipper up into the adapters.

7XJzHUY.png

Now, offset the C7 adapter upwards until the top of the Skipper is flush with the fuel tank or whatever you put. Voila!

5KRQ0D3.png

Edited by Zucal
Fixed embedded images.

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Here's a very advanced building trick:

OG9ZCJb.png

When you place stack attachable parts; it creates something called a "node" below the part.

Then you can attach other stack attachable parts onto that node!

You may rep me whenever you like.

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2.5m engine tip part two! Now for the poodle:

Fuel tank of choice above (must have 2.5m endcap). Below, put an X200-8 fuel tank, then an upside-down C7 adapter, then the Poodle.

tBqx4LG.png

Then, offset the engine upwards until the slant of the C7 adapter meets the curve of the engine's spherical bibbity-boppit. And finally, offset the C7 adapter up into the tank/whatever until the Poodle is flush with it. This is a smidgen cheaty, depending on how you use it. If you don't like having one fuel tank a bit inside another, empty one of them of fuel.

NZl9dRt.png

An alternative version, this time sliding the Poodle further into the adapter so as to hide the spherical bit completely:

ZAAm2nx.png

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I've not been on the forums long, but a new dog can have new tricks, too. :rolleyes:

I love using the 2.5m engines, but IMO the Poodle looks like a badly drawn cartoon and the Skipper's orange undertones aren't big on me either. Here are some tips to improve your engine's flair! *Heavy part clipping involved, but for aesthetic reasons only.

For the Skipper, start off with your fuel tank of choice (2.5m or larger). Place a C7 adapter upside-down below it, and an FL-A10 adapter below that. Then, plop the Skipper. Like so:

http://i.imgur.com/iFfBYSt.png

Now, use the offset tool to slide the Skipper up into the adapters.

http://i.imgur.com/7XJzHUY.png

Now, offset the C7 adapter upwards until the top of the Skipper is flush with the fuel tank or whatever you put. Voila!

http://i.imgur.com/5KRQ0D3.png

That is So Awesome !@# it's like a whole new engine design !?!@

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I've not been on the forums long, but a new dog can have new tricks, too. :rolleyes:

I love using the 2.5m engines, but IMO the Poodle looks like a badly drawn cartoon and the Skipper's orange undertones aren't big on me either. Here are some tips to improve your engine's flair! *Heavy part clipping involved, but for aesthetic reasons only.

For the Skipper, start off with your fuel tank of choice (2.5m or larger). Place a C7 adapter upside-down below it, and an FL-A10 adapter below that. Then, plop the Skipper. Like so:

http://i.imgur.com/iFfBYSt.png

Now, use the offset tool to slide the Skipper up into the adapters.

http://i.imgur.com/7XJzHUY.png

Now, offset the C7 adapter upwards until the top of the Skipper is flush with the fuel tank or whatever you put. Voila!

http://i.imgur.com/5KRQ0D3.png

Wow amazing, you give me and idea for my Angara/Delta rocket. + rep ;)

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'Nother tip: anyone else not like the bright yellow decoupler? No fear! Just offset the large reaction wheel up into the decoupler, and you get a nice grey one.

5LqyrQK.png

Here's my crew capsule using two of these tricks:

PloyVgT.png

Edited by Zucal
Included the MPCV pic

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More ZuQual tips for ya!

For stations and bases, you can make them look a bit more lived in by placing lit lights offset into structural fuselages. They look like lit portholes, and can illuminate your station or base surroundings while doing so! You can even change their light color using tweakables without altering their appearance.

zVCvg1b.png

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More ZuQual tips for ya!

For stations and bases, you can make them look a bit more lived in by placing lit lights offset into structural fuselages. They look like lit portholes, and can illuminate your station or base surroundings while doing so! You can even change their light color using tweakables without altering their appearance.

http://i.imgur.com/zVCvg1b.png

Ha that's a good one! I'll use this idea thank you

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Now, let's do some nuclear drive pods! First, take your tug or what have you and attach an upside-down regular C7 adapter.

iBU2QYe.png

Now, attach a large SAS unit on top, then the big nosecone. Below, place the FL-A10 adapter and the nuclear engine.

ZatD6XV.png

Rotate the whole pod to vertical. Then, offset the engine until only the bell is outside the fuel tank. Finally, offset the pods into the large adapter. Like so:

44mgUSF.png

If you have clipping concerns, all the fuel is inside the adapter, not the fuel tank. Feel free to +rep if you found this useful!

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