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Thread to discuss negative things in a very general way, just see where it goes y'know?

DAL59

By DAL59
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richfiles

richfiles

Posted
Posted (edited)

l45BLvY.jpg

It's ONLY been since October 2015 when I first conceptualized this project. It's FINALLY assembled... Every wire soldered, everything screwed shut, ready for firmware...

And when I run the controller's test program, I get random floating voltages on the LED drivers... Drivers are identical to the caps lock LED driver... That works perfectly... But nope! There's a floating voltage and I can't quite find it. I don't know if I shorted a wire while modifying the LED drivers to be run from a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), and then back to PWM control by the controller (when I switched from serial controlled LED brightness to controller driven brightness)... I tested as many of the connections as I possibly could with my meter, and none show up as shorted, yet a 10KΩ resistor couldn't pull the input signal high (which should have shut the LEDs off). Weirder yet, is each of the 4 LED drivers have a varying degree of off-ness or lack thereof of off-ness. They all turn on just fine, but when I try to turn them off, usually one or two of the 4 banks will glow dimly, and maybe one will be barely lit... It's just... REALLY ODD...

I DREAD the thought of having to do rework, cause it's all hand wired. I'd be better off just running new parallel runs of wire. My biggest concern is that I have a short to the controller itself, from when I ran an LED control wire \under the controller to reach the magnetic connector... It is... not a simple task to remove it. :/ 
I mean... Just look! :0.0:

Spoiler

ciuZD0O.jpg

 

Edited by richfiles
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TheSaint

TheSaint

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, richfiles said:

l45BLvY.jpg

It's ONLY been since October 2015 when I first conceptualized this project. It's FINALLY assembled... Every wire soldered, everything screwed shut, ready for firmware...

And when I run the controller's test program, I get random floating voltages on the LED drivers... Drivers are identical to the caps lock LED driver... That works perfectly... But nope! There's a floating voltage and I can't quite find it. I don't know if I shorted a wire while modifying the LED drivers to be run from a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), and then back to PWM control by the controller (when I switched from serial controlled LED brightness to controller driven brightness)... I tested as many of the connections as I possibly could with my meter, and none show up as shorted, yet a 10KΩ resistor couldn't pull the input signal high (which should have shut the LEDs off). Weirder yet, is each of the 4 LED drivers have a varying degree of off-ness or lack thereof of off-ness. They all turn on just fine, but when I try to turn them off, usually one or two of the 4 banks will glow dimly, and maybe one will be barely lit... It's just... REALLY ODD...

I DREAD the thought of having to do rework, cause it's all hand wired. I'd be better off just running new parallel runs of wire. My biggest concern is that I have a short to the controller itself, from when I ran an LED control wire \under the controller to reach the magnetic connector... It is... not a simple task to remove it. :/ 
I mean... Just look! :0.0:

  Reveal hidden contents

ciuZD0O.jpg

 

Where's "SCE to AUX"?

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richfiles

richfiles

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I use a Kester No Clean flux (which I usually still clean anyway). It's got the electrical properties of Pthht. :D

More likely, there's a short to the controller, and with all outputs but the caps lock LED trip-stated (high impedance, aka, floating), if that wire is making contact with something it's not, then it's preventing the drivers from shutting off, and holing it right at the switching threshold... That's my guess. Additionally, I have twice now run a wire under the controller, and had significant resistance with getting it to reach the other side. The LED wire to the connector was one of those two wires. If it snagged a component, and the insulation tore... That could explain it.

On that note, I need to spend the rest of my day at my workbench, working on circuit... boards for work, and I don't have time to look at my poor keyboard right now... ;.;

Edited by richfiles
SCE to AUX is a toggle switch. I'll save that for my instrument panel.
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Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, richfiles said:

I use a Kester No Clean flux (which I usually still clean anyway).

Almost read that as "Kerman's No Clean Flux"

Edited by Guest
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Dirkidirk

Dirkidirk

Posted
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my dog is being cute and is destroying objects, expelling waste everywhere he isn't supposed to.

In other news I recently learned that chihuahuas are apparently not immortal, large objects can come out of nowhere and severely damage them to the point of mortality.

In other other news, my samsung 7 somehow managed to end up kilometers away at 11% charge, and google's find My Phone service was accurate to 2500 feet. calling it did nothing but suck up power, and in the end, it got dumped on by the clouds.

in other other other news, quarantine high school.

in slightly better news, got a samsung 8.

Edited by Dirkidirk
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TheSaint

TheSaint

Posted
Posted

Job satisfaction story of the day:

Management: We need to have a system that prevents people from creating accounts willy-nilly and sets a hard expiration date on every non-user account that is created. Anything else is too insecure. 

Management: We need to set up a password expiration policy for every account in our system, even accounts that are set up with the non-user account system. Anything else is too insecure.

(After all this is set up, completely bulletproof, and running for years.)

Management: Hey, we have this one vendor who is really griping about the fact that their account with us expires and they have to reset the password. Can you just set them up with a permanent account with a non-expiring password?

Me:

airplane1_3280147a.gif

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Shpaget

Shpaget

Posted
Posted

My GPU might to be ready to push the daisies.

I've had some issues with the monitor for a while, and usually a power cycle of the monitor would solve the issue, but today I was just watching some Youtube video and the screen went blank. Monitor power cycle did nothing. The sound kept coming, but keyboard controls did nothing.

One hard power off later, the PC won't boot, just gives me some beeps (ASUS mobo, one long three short, "An anomaly is detected in the graphic card. If the graphic card needs an extra power supply, please ensure the power supply can provide enough wattage.") I doubt it's actually PSU since games that I'd expect to give the GPU a bit more workout than a 720p video work fine.

Anyway, I shut down the PC unplug it and rip out the GPU, clean the dust a bit, clean some of the dust from the CPU cooler as well and retry. No cigar.

Reopen the case, notice I forgot to plug in power to the GPU. Plug that in, but since I'm already here, I might as well reseat memory. Do that and try rebooting again. It works. I hate fixing PCs.

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qzgy

qzgy

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, cubinator said:

The people on the street are most talkative between 12:00 and 1:00........AM. :huh: 

I'm trying to have a healthy sleep cycle here! And my windows are a little too thin for this.

you guys are sleeping at 12?

What about using music to help drown out people noises?

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Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, cubinator said:

The people on the street are most talkative between 12:00 and 1:00........AM. :huh: 

I'm trying to have a healthy sleep cycle here! And my windows are a little too thin for this.

Earplugs?

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kerbiloid

kerbiloid

Posted
Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, Aperture Science said:

Earplugs?

To everyone of them, to stop them hearing each other, make their speaking useless, and make them stop speaking?

A good idea, but how could you catch each of them to plug the earplugs into his ears?

Edited by kerbiloid
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RealKerbal3x

RealKerbal3x

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, cubinator said:

No, that's too mean. Slippery might work, but food particles will eventually nullify it. I need a closing hatch.

What about some kind of fine netting? Big enough for food particles to pass through but too small for the bugs to escape.

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cubinator

cubinator

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, Shpaget said:

https://www.amazon.com/byFormica-Ant-Products-Prevention-Climbing/dp/B00UJLH12A

The walls in question will be frequently coated with powder as the food delivery system activates. That paint won't last long.

I'm looking at PVC pipe with little hatches actuated by servos. It would be closed well enough for all but the few seconds needed to drop food into the enclosure, but it's one more servo that has to be added to the machine.

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qzgy

qzgy

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, cubinator said:

I'm looking at PVC pipe with little hatches actuated by servos. It would be closed well enough for all but the few seconds needed to drop food into the enclosure, but it's one more servo that has to be added to the machine.

What about a sort of rotating disk thing that picks up a small amount of food from the food storage hopper thing before sliding it over another hole to the direction of the insects? IDK if that describes it well buut could be a solution.Would also only need one servo as well.

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